MikeJ

Some cars have a flat spot around 2300 revs I increased idle jet size from 40 to 42 to sort it

You mentioned earlier that you had a multimeter. Now's the time to set it to resistance and measure the resistance between spade and metalwork as you move the arm. I cant remember which spade is the low fuel switch and which is the guage. It doesn't matter, one should show a nice variable resistance as you move the arm, the other will suddenly switch to near zero resistance. If this doesn't work then it takes you down the route of either replacing the sender or taking it apart to clean it up (there's quite a lot of corrosion in that picture!).

Good thinking but I think the rheostats will be too low a resistance. This should do you: 500ohm linear pot. The wire that usually connects the sender to the guage - connect this to the center terminal of the pot. Connect either of the outer pot connections to ground. Put the pot in the middle position before turning on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Potentiometer-Rotary-15mm-500R-2M-with-Colour-Coded-Knob-Sold-Individually-2/221810806316?hash=item33a4f44e2c:g:K3QAAOSwymxVQ05g There's also another wire that goes to the sender which is the low fuel switch.

Hi, I tested mine by connecting a 500ohm variable resistor in series with the guage and a 12V supply. Sweeping the pot should see the guage go over its range. I happened to have one in the drawer but easy to get off ebay. My guage was fine, the sender was at fault. It needed stripping down and the crud gently scrubbing off the resistance wire

I know its easy to convince yourself that the change has made an improvement but I've added the shim to the O/S rear and it does drive much better. Left handers now feel the same as right handers!

H Hi, I think the tops are different for the turbo, they connect to the plenum to allow the carbs to be pressurised. Mike

Thanks for that, good advice. My main motivation is to get the thrust angle to near zero. However, I'm probably not a sensitive enough driver to notice the difference! cheers Mike

Thanks for that, looks like the print out is as if you were looking down at the top of the car. My wheel in question is therefore the O/S and I need to reduce the toe in by about 20' to get in in spec. cheers Mike

Apologies for the noddy question but I'm getting myself in a twist interpreting the standard Hunter alignment print out. Attached is a previous readout of the Esprit. Two questions for you guys with respect to the rear wheel marked as 0deg32' toe. 1. Is this the O/S drivers side that its talking about? 2. Does a +ve figure mean toe-in? i.e the front of the rear wheel is closer to the chassis than the rear of the rear wheel. Hope you can help please. cheers Mike

Hi Dave, carbs are re-built and re-mounted but haven't yet had time to tune up and try it out. I adjusted the nearside float down a mm to reduce the level to nearer 27mm at the jets. I'm hoping it will solve my right hand cornering problem. cheers Mike

Hi. yes just to confirm, the measurements are as Steve4012 says; that is the fuel level is 23.8mm down from the top face of the carb

Similar problem, turned out to be crud on the resistance track inside the sender. Dismantled the sender, used electrical cleaner insider and emery papered the oxidation off the wiper arm. Now works a treat. cheers Mike

I think it goes from the bottom screw on the accelerator pump cover to the nut holding the intake manifold to the head. Mike

There's a number of threads on this topic and the illusive setting of 27mm depth of fuel. As they say, the carbs don't sit horizontal on the manifold. I measured the following on mine in the picture. If you take an average then it should present at 27mm at the jet stack. However, I've got a different question, if I could test some logic with you guys............... If I take a fast right hander, the car often wants to stall. (It doesn't want to do this with a fast left hander). I guess in this circumstance, fuel will surge towards point A, this will hold off the floats harder which means that the fuel level at the stack will start to lean out. How does that sound? cheers Mike

I'm going to bite the bullet and strip & re-build them. It's been 12yrs since they were last done with a fair bit of sitting around over the winter.