Toqcars

Seems like EX490 is not touching the engine internals, whereas jubu 500 kit changes pistons, connecting rods, valve springs... for the similar power. There are some reports that everything that is over 450/460 could cause some serious engine internals damage, especially if driven hard (read: track). That's also why I am still on the stock power level 🙂

Late replay, but still: I was running 1.5° camber on front and 1.7° of camber on the rear for the fast road setting. This allowed me to use 295 on read without any rubbing. I run 3° of camber now, which I really like, but it is just killing the tires on the way to the track. My personal opinion is that the 1.8°-2.0° on front and 2.2° on rear is ideal for the fast road and sweet spot for road and occasional track day.

225 front and 295 rear. There was rubbing on mine with the 215 and increased front camber on the inner side when steering wheel was maxed out. When switched to the 225, there was additional rubbing on the outer side when heavy braking on a bump/hole. Only noticed on a track, never on a road. Check the rubber marks::

Confirmed, very lucky 🙂 Can also confirm, that I will be underneath the car before every session. 6-point harnesses were just received. Just not sure yet of this is a weekend project or a winter project. Also 3 mm spacer for the front axle arrived. I guess spacer will not be a winter project 😂, so will know sooner or later if this fixes the rubber rubbing on bumpy surface under the heavy braking.

You are running quite softer rebounds, which I was planning as well, but not there yet (other mods first). My high speed damping is a bit stiffer (2 clicks more), low speed damping is significantly stiffer than yours. I am fighting with the nose diving under heavy braking and am trying to mitigate the dive with the low speed damping. But is seems that the low-speed damping frequency/speed is still higher than the braking frequency/speed. I am exploring the idea of stiffer springs now... But back to the topic; in general, stiffer damping is better for the Yokohama A052/ TrofeoR (guess will be the same for the AR1 as well), softer damping (especially high speed) is better suited for the Cup2. Rebound was more or less the same for both. At least from what I saw. Oh, and those experiences are based on a fast track, no wheel lifts.

For example: https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/steering-br-suspension-1/hub-carriers-uprights/s2-s3-rear-uprights-pair-oem-specification/ Please note this: "... as this upright offers a substantial safety feature in that it puts the rear toe link bolt in double sheer. The standard single sheer bolt has been known to fail with disastrous consequences." A bit dramatic, but on point.

Just remove the sticker before crashing it 😂 I've read somewhere (I think some exige manual) that when the hardtop is removed, downforce is decreased. But hardtop doesn't increase chassis rigidity, so it's aero only. When on track, I always use hardtop, but prefer targa for the road.

What uprights have you used? OEM or some track focused aftermarket?

Cup2 sidewall is so soft, that its shaking during high G-force turns. Have you changed damping/rebound setting when migrating to the AR1 for the track? If so, what are your preferred settings? I've ordered 295 for the AO52 and AR1. Seems easier to get.

Based on our local track records, I would say that Cup2R would last forever on front axle and same as others on rear axle. But I really doubt 3 track days are possible with the Cup2R 😂 Thinking about the "spare" wheel set with the slicks just for the track days. I least I would like to test the difference 🙂

Bridgestones are great for the road and track. Cup2 is fine, especially because it can easily be warmed up quite fast. I switched to Cup2 rears from the TrofeoR and A052, because this was the only proper semi-slick on stock. I don't like it, due to the soft side wall. Car is so elastic and jumpy I can't trust. I used same damping settings as for the A052, so sure I could mitigate the elastic feeling a bit with the settings. So Cup2 is just not worth it for me. But it seems that is just personal preference. Quite a lot of drivers prefer softer side wall 😃 For example I was few seconds faster on TrofeoR compared to the Cup2. But it's not that the Cup2 is few seconds slower, it's just about the trust. If you trust the tyre (tyre feedback), you will be fast. So... it's up the the driver preferences.

Hm... could be that it's 48 l. Problem is that the OEM tank has a problem under 50% level. So it's more like 24 l vs 51 l. But I agree, 60 l is better than 54 l 😃 From what I've read on this and the other forum seems like 60 l tank is quite problematic to integrate. But 54 l should be quite simple to put in. Have you had any issues by putting it in? Until what level of gas do you use it on the track?

After quite a few track days and hill climbs I can confirm, that the understeer is fully gone. Sure the understeer could be initiated by maximum braking into the hard turn. Otherwise it's gone. Car was running Yokohama A052 fronts (225) and rears (295). It was very stable and predictable, no more ESP/TC shaking of the front end at the fast double S corners that was reported before. But rear tyres are struggling to put all the torque to the track when exiting the curves. It's awful when driven in "slip angle mode". EDL (e-diff, yes, I said that) in regular race mode helps a lot. That is the main reason I prefer regular race mode over "slip angle" mode. So owners with 390/420/420, you are not missing a lot here 😉 Car is mostly driven on counterclockwise tracks. Has some issues with an uneven tyre wear. I was not aware of it until the left tyre happened: No burnouts here, just track. And this is the inner side of the rear left wheel. Right rear rubber wear is perfect: How to know that this is happening? There are high frequency vibrations at the high speed (above 180 kmh / 120 mph). But it's vibrating so intense, that you can't clearly see. Even center of view is blurred. I was pretty sure that one tyre lost pressure, so I went to pits, measured pressures. All fine. Checked the tires (with the helmet on), so I only checked the outer sides, it was all good. Did few more laps and stopped the car... I guess in the last moment before the disaster. You can see that the steel wire was just being damaged. I am driving on 4 years old Cup2 until I receive set of Nankang AR-1 that was just ordered. Otherwise Yokohama A052 was great. Especially on the front axle. Never tried Trofeo R on front, but this was way better than the Cup2. Maybe an idea for drivers using Cup2 and don't want to go to the increased camber settings... maybe try stickier tyre just on the front. Might help with the understeer. But be aware that front end will grip and rear will not. I am driving Yokohama A052 at front and old Cup2 at rear. It's quite good actually. And A052 will last for ages on front axle. For sure wheels needs to be rotated more often. LSD might help as well. Car is still great. Still love it. Still the best car I've ever had. It works on the track. No heating issues. Was driving Evora recently. I can confirm that the front axle is way better than the Exige. It is easily noticeable, even on a road. Would love to have Evora front axle on my car. But the only way to have it is one cow heavier GT430 😂 Few things I would like to improve in the following months/years: - rear axle grip. So LSD. Or downforce. Or better suspension setup. - rear brakes needs better pads (using Ferodo DS3.12 at front and OEM DS2500 at the rear) - improve rear dampers access. It's such a pain to setup the rear left damper. No place at all. - explore how to mitigate the front axle diving (sometimes even rubbing) on heavy braking - integrate Schroth 6-point harnesses - get GRP rear lights (it's so hard to get them) - explore whether shifting into the 5th gear could be improved Those are just a small things. Car is great without those. But there is one big thing killing my nerves. Exige has 45 l tank. 22 l are useful. If fuel consumption is 2 l per lap, only 11 laps could be done before refilling. This is killing me. I am thinking about the eliseparts 54 l tanks with 51 l of usefull capacity. That would be fine for 25 laps... which is 250% better 😃

Oil temperature and oil pressure are analog sensors (inputs).

BTW, what was the ambient temperature when this happened?

Could be that there is something with the cargecooler tank cap. I needed to add coolant 3 times in the last 8 months. Also had some issues when there is less than 50% of gas in the tank, so I am always refilling before hitting the track. No EML, but loss of power,similar like the tank is empty. Only last a second or two. I am afraid that the engine would be damaged in high G curves if less than half of a fuel tank. Thinking about the fuel catch tank with a pump... https://www.jubu-performance.com/en/tuning/part-jubu_kraftstoff_catchtank_system_inkl._hochleistungsbenzinpumpe-1878

Yokohama Advan A052 all around. Or A052 on front and Trofeo R on rear end. However, Trofeo R it almost impossible to warm up the Trofeo R on an Exige.

I am really curios how much clearance do you have. However, it’s really hard to see/measure, event when the car is on an alignment lift. Will try to measure on a friend’s Exige, who hasn’t changed the arms and has maxed out the camber to 1.75 deg. But it will take a while… @Martrack from statics point of view, you should be fine. Looks like some minority of cars struggle with this issue. But even if you can’t fit, you can always add an additional spacer for the perfect fit. I added additional 5 to 6 mm (than is 8 to 9 mm with the OEM spacer).

@Paul_D do you have an OEM spacer on your rear wheels (3 mm)? I am super curious why our cars are different. Wheel hits the helper spring when camber is over 2°. Thanks for the service notes, now it makes sense why I had issues with the grip on the track compared to all others. Also explains highly uneven semi-slicks wear compared to all others.

Bought the adjustable upper arms. Theoretically you could get up to 6° with it. 😃

My car had 1.5° from the factory. I have cup 430 FE. My friend’s car had 1.5° from the factory, his car is cup 430 FE. Talked with a mechanic who aligned another 390 FE and it had around 1.5° as well. Max that we were able to get with the OEM parts on my car was 1.75°. Oh, and alignment rig is regularly calibrated. 2 cars were made for German market, 390 FE was made for the Italian market. Not sure why different to your cars. Market difference? Doubt it 🙂

Switch for the rear engine cover/trunk also causes that. Happened to me and also to my friend's 430.

I needed to add a spacer to fit the 295 at rear, but I have more than 2° of camber. It should fit if less. If more, wheel (not rubber) hits the helper spring. Regarding mixing the setups... I used to run Cup2 at front and Trofeo R at the rear. Haven't noticed any issues on a road. Car was better on a road compared to the cup2. It was also faster on a track, but not balanced. TC was panicking like crazy because no grip (compared to the rear) at front.

Yes, that's the kit I have. It is good, totally worth it. Car is very well balanced with 2.3° at front and 3.0° at the rear axle. No need for additional camber for now. At least for the semi-slicks. I might answer different for the slicks, but haven't tried it yet. Car is so stable and balanced (even on a bumpy road and under heavy braking) that I am considering changing the anti-roll bar setting to hard. But you need to work in it... for sure not a GT car now 🙂

I have Ferodo Racing DS3.12 and 225 Yokohama A052 on the front axle. Camber is set to -2.3°. Braking is very intense. No issues with the ABS. Sure there are some TC issues when in TOUR mode, because TC is not calibrated for the higher level of grip. It might be that your tyres are the problem.