royz_garage

Well I had my first damp and dry drive in my new 3-11 with new cup2’s at all 4 corners. Cant compare to an other tyre in this car but my reference is my Bac Mono and Ariel Atom. It was 7 degrees celcius, so just above freezing point. I expected there to be about zero grip and was very surprised to have a lot of grip on the front axle, virtually no understeer and in a straight line I was able to apply a lót of brake pressure without anyting locking up. with the ultra lights I’m used to, the fronts where always struggling to find any grip in cold and damp conditions. I think the size and weight of the car helps here. 3-11 is almost double the weight of Mono and Atoms, so ab bit difficult to compare, but with this experience I have no real reason to switch to an other tyre

For those who care, I ended up buying 2 fronts cup 2 as I havent driven either of the tires and I think it is a waste to not use the brand new rears. Also the a052 are more expensive rear, fronts where cheaper than cup 2, so with 4 tires it would be about the same.

is it much better than the cup 2's? I have a worn set on the front that need replacing but there are brand new cup 2's on the rear, feels like a waste to change now, but an even bigger waste if cup2 is bad and have to switch with 4 practically new tyres on

In the 3-11 group someone uses the federal rs pro and some use the trofeo. I have no idea which size they use but I assume the same as stock. also pss off course but thats a pure road tyre Ah i see if what you mean, the yoko’s have the fronts but the rear is 275 or 295, not the 285…I see the problem here

Why is this? Is there nothing else on the market? Surely the new a052 yokohama is available in this size? I dont care about wet and cold conditions as I dont drive the 3-11 (410) in those conditions. happy to hear cup 2’s work on a lotus. But I assume there are more options?

Allthough I have a 3-11 and not an exige, I’m posting here because I’m very curious about tyre opinions and the exige is very much the same after all. my car is fitted with cup 2 and I have yet to experience them as I havent got to drive all that much yet, but on other cars they actually seemed rubbish. difficult to get heat in, low initial cold grip and not the best on track either. what is the current choice for a 90% road used car?

They say that over here as well if you ask them but nevertheless I owned and registered numerous cars without type approval like: 2x ariel atom supercharged hayabusa turbo 550hp classic mini BAC Mono and now the 3-11. All cars should not be able to be registered…

Obviously it would be “not good” for emissions, but that being said, put in the co spacers and the engine will think it still has a cat. This should avoid a cell being throwed and in my country if there isnt a cell/mil code on the obd they dont do the emissions test with the sniffing machine, if they do you’ll have to swap out the manifolds every 2 years for MOT. assuming Dave is correct you will have the risk of damaging the engine. probably dealers tell different versions of the same truth. Dave seems to be smart and on the safe side, others might say go ahead the ecu will correct it, both are correct, its just how much “risk” is one willing to take. I guess best is remapping, but there really arent any mappers except for komotec who really rather sells a complete package incl mapping. feels a bit like “if you want to get rid of the cats, please buy a complete kit or nothing at all” so thats probably what I end up with

Sounds good. Its not that I dont want this or that, just trying to understand whats what and I like to understand my car. appreciated that a professional takes time to share real info on a forum👌🏻👊 my logic was that when placing a new intake your text is true as you indeed have better ingoing airflow, but when removing something that blocks flow like a cat it releases the potential of more airflow through the pipe, but as the engine doesnt know that it is not there anymore, it will spit out exactly the same and you dont benefit from it, but you loose the potential engine damaging oem cats(which a remap could fix.) so for instance one could just take the oem manifolds, weld in a pipe instead of the cat and back on the road for 200 euro’s and than you didn’t get more power, but also lost the risk of damaging the cats/engine to avoid a cell some sell these lambda blockers which make the ecu think there still is a cat. I owned 2 Ariel atoms supercharged and decatted both, which is factory supported and actually gained a little top end power and on one it lost a little low end, other one didn’t. dont get me wrong here, I’ll probably drive stock and than opt for 475 komotec kit or sell the car, but I know a lot of guys just want to get rid of the manifolds only and dont want to pay for sportcats, y-pipes, remaps etc.

What I dont understand here is why there are so many dealers selling decat exhausts and the option for a racecat if full decat is this bad for the engine. None of them (except komotec) is offering remaps, so are tubular, larini etc all selling stuff that might damage the engine or loose power due to their products, while they call those exhaust “engine saving kits”? also the cupr is catless, but this a different map off course. could you explain further? Because I’ve spoken to a bunch of parts dealers and all tell different versions. Most say it is best to delete cats entirely for better flow, some say the engine gets lean, some say the engine is self learning and its not a problem. i have no clue who to follow…. so not saying you are incorrect, just saying I dont follow whats what

Yes RDW accepted the car with no questions asked (Covid also brings good things like online importing😁) and I took the beast home in 3 degrees temps and wet straats😮 That was a bit sketchy with the ps cup 2’s, but also a lot of fun👊

Hi guys, I recently bought a 3- eleven, but I wonder where all the owners are, or are 3-11 owners just no forum/instagram/youtube kind of people? there’s virtually no one or any info online to be found😮 I made a group whatsapp to share info directly among owners and after 10 owners it becomes quite difficult to find them. With the BAC we had about 100 owners in the chat (out of 130’ish in total) would love to see some more video’s and stuff😎

2.32 with a highly modified sequential 3-11 done by komotec.

Will do a write up later next year, will also make a video on my channel (now bacmonoroy, will be rebranded to royz garage later) I bought it in the far south of Germany and had them bring it to komotec, they did a single type approval for german registration and I had vd Kooi do the transporting from there to NL and as the car is there I have him do the online registration from German plates to NL. that is still pending, hope to know the outcome by the end of this week….exciting times as it was not a very cheap car and dutch plates are not a given fact😬

sorry for the noob questions, just looking into exhaust "solutions", but what is QP backbox, and what is a ti backbox (the oem one?) For my 3-eleven which has the more silent sports back box without valve, I was thinking about swapping out the manifolds, downpipes and a sportcat and keep the backbox stock. You think this would be a problem on most tracks? oh and awesome car you have there😎👌