Bomb Factory

This is a long winded story with the ultimate question being- how do I obtain what I need to run freescan (or some similar program) on my S4s. It looks like the software is easy to obtain, but the cable I need - not so much. If anyone has this info and does not want to read the rest of the story here- appreciate any info you can share. My car has been running well and I have been somewhat dreading the day that I had to enter the realm of freescan. I am sure I can figure it all out, but it does not seem simple to get going and has a large learning curve. There is no service center anywhere around me that knows these cars. I do all my own work (or have the techs at my shop do it) anyway. Nothing beats the satisfaction of diagnosing and solving problems with a car onesself. How I got to this post. I am currently in the process of diagnosing a power loss issue that occurred after replacing the 4 rubber bushings to which the charge cooler mounts. It was running nicely before I had one of the techs at my shop install the new bushings. I had noticed they were toast during the process of removing the blow off valve that was on the car when I got it. The BOV went bad and I am not inclined to replace it. So I replaced the top hose from the intake to the charge cooler with a silicone one. I decided to use the type of silicone hose with a wire spiraled around it to help prevent it from caving in under load. I had to cut the wire and honestly I dont think that I did myself any favors with the decision. So I am waiting on the factory hoses for in and outbound to/from chargecooler to arrive from Sj Sportscars. Anyway, during the process of replacing the bushings, my tech- who is quite good, must have somehow loosened something or accidentally knocked something off. Since that time the car has a slightly rough idle, and does not make proper power. I has enough power to drive around town just fine. But when you get on it, especially above 4k when you would expect the kick in the pants to come- it is just flat. It does not feel anemic - or like anything has gone wrong. Rather it is just not fast. It would be like flooring a mortal 4 cyl, like a Corolla. And it essentially feels like it probably does to drive a corolla of the same era (hey they do share the same taillight lenses). The idle is a tad rougher than it used to be. I also removed the cat on my car last year and since then it has a lovely backfiring when it seems like it should. Since things have gone astray, it backfires much more - especially when lifting the foot off the gas at higher RPMs. Again, nothing alarming- but it is there and seems like it should not be. I have driven the car very liittle since the issue so I have not had time to explore how the car does in various situations. I have alot of cars and too liittle time to drive any of them, so long periods of time pass between issues, testing, parts ordering, etc. Last night I drove to a car show and for the first time ever, my check engine light came on. It went off after a few seconds and did not return until a few miles later, when it payed another visit for a few seconds and went away again. Both times it came on, I was at idle just starting to pull into a driveway. So now I enter the dark realm of freescan. I know no other way to begin the conquest of the check engine light- which does have an important purpose. Perhaps the issue I am experiencing does not even require freescan, that is fine. But eventually I will need it as I do not intend to give this car up unless required to by.some supernatural force. So here I go. Advice appreciated. -Charles

Thx I have the notes in binders but I was unable to find the AC info. I have 3 binders of them which came with the car. That was the first place I looked. Anyhow, I can definitely figure it out from here. thx!

My AC fan blows but no cold air comes out. First thing to check is the refrig level. Did some quick looking and cant seem to find the ports where I can hook up my gauges. Also- I know the switch over from R 12 was in '94 so I am figuring mine has R134a. Can anyone confirm? Thanks it is getting hot down here in the South!

Ill definitely check out the relay. That would be nice if the fix is that easy.

I have not changed the oil since I got it but PO kept it impeccably maintained. It is running Mobile 1 15w50

1996 S4S Runs like a top. Notice that my pressure warning light comes on at low RPMs. Plenty of oil. Was planning on just replacing the sender (same as pressure switch?) but I was reading on some other posts that it could be just the light. Im about to replace my boost gauge with an updated VDO that has more range and also vac. While Im in there wondering if there is a way to test the oil pressure light to be sure that is not the issue. I see a transducer listed on a dealer parts site - see below for PN. But it is $317 and I dont want to just throw parts at the problem. Any experienced advice is appreciated. I dont believe there is a real issue with the pressure but it is very unsettling none the less to see the light come on knowing the criticality of proper oil flow. Plus literally everything else on the car works (I hate to even mention this fact because it is tempting the universe to blow something on the car up) and I want to get this issue sorted. Thx Charles TRANSDUCER-OIL PRESSURE Part Number: A082N4038F

Found it ordered it. Looks like the rear one is a real pain in the ass to change out!

Link provided says part no longer available. But since I have the PN I am sure i can find one. thx!

Finally got time to remove the BOV and replace with a new silicone tube/hose. That seemed to do the trick. I can now peg the boost gauge at its 1 bar limiter. PO on mine had the gauge recalibrated since he has a red race chip that ups the max boost under the right conditions. I want to get the car on my dyno and I am thinking that Id like to have a more precise boost gauge before I do. Any advice on replacement/upgrade boost gauge that others have found to be of good quality and functionality? Also- I noticed that one of the little rubber mounts that holds the charge cooler to the head is severed. This would be the one towards the back of the car and is hard to see since it is obscured by the charge cooler. Id like to replace it but dont know what to call the part to search for it. Any info on what the part is called or a PN is also appreciated. Happy to have all my boost back. Now I need to learn how to use the boost properly- I find this car requires you to wring the power out of it- vs the large V8s in the rest of my cars. Im getting to know it slowly so I can feel the limits and keep better control.

@jonwat so its just the one part number that gets me both parts of the gasket or do I need to order two?

Makes sense. It looks like only modifications to the stock vacuum lines to accommodate the BOV is a T that goes into one of the lines running on the back side of the engine. It seems pretty simple to just pull it and place a cap on the T or even just use a barb splice to reconnect the stock hoses. The vent tube is external and just hangs down so that is pretty easy. Suggestions on where to get a good replacement hose to span the intake to the charger cooler? I will definitely test the plenum too. @ramjet thanks for the tip there.

No havent checked the plenum gaskets- I know you are urging me to do so. So I will do it. Are you suggesting a visual inspection without taking the manifold off? If so I reckon I better get some new gaskets no matter. Do you recommend a good source for those? I recall its a two part gasket? @jonwat Could it actually be that easy? Certainly a good place to begin the journey. cheers!

After a busy few months I was finally able to get back on the diagnosis of my boost leakage. I took a look at the cat which seemed fine but while I had part of the exhaust off- I just went ahead and removed the cat. I live in Louisiana and we dont have any inspections to worry about. I figured it would add a tad better flow - less restriction. I test drove the car and the issue is not solved. When you push the revs hard - during prime turbo time the boost hits .5 bar or so and there is a loud whoosh- which is not the same sound as the blow off valve makes- and the boost gauge falls to 0 and then starts its journey to build back up again once the throttle is applied again or pushed further. Now that the cat is off it seems that there is more cackling and a bit of popping when I lift off the gas after accelerating. None of it sounds bad per say- Ive had lots of cars with glass packs or even no mufflers at all and the noise is similar. But I want to be sure it is not a sign of something being wrong. This being my first car of this type- and having only logged a hundred or so miles with the car- Im still a newby. My next step in diagnosis is to map out all the blow off valve/turbo piping and vac lines to make sure I know what is going where and what its function is. Then I can try removing the blow off valve and replacing with a new piece of hose that spans the gap left between the charge cooler and the air intake. I dont want to just start pulling stuff off until I know what all the connected lines do and where they go. This process will also allow me to do a more thorough inspection of the tubes, clamps etc. From my visuals thus far- all seems snug and tidy. Maybe I will find a break or loose fitting that I missed before. I have all the service manuals for the car- binders of them- but would like to ask here if anyone has a nice, easy to follow map of the vac lines that relate to the turbo and the installation of a BOV that is not adjustable and externally vented (as mine is). I am sure I can find it but I appreciate the collective wisdom of this group in shortening my research process. thx Charles

I guess I can just replace the gaskets anyway. I am checking the cat first and foremost as well as second deeper look at all the BOV hoses etc. Is there an upgraded plenum gasket set? And if so where to procure?

@andydclements I was definitely informed that the BOV hoses can slip. Mine seem quite firmly in place. But I am going to take a deeper look and I can have a mate stand over the motor while I rev it and get boost flowing. @Sparky Is there a reference you can point me to in regards to the process for changing intake plenum gaskets and a good supplier for them? Ive changed many gaskets so its not about the basics but more any specific things to know when doing the service on this car. Ive not learned my way around it yet. First thing I need to shrink my hands.