Cooperman103

Can anyone advise me which make/model of fault code reader works with a series 3 elise please? All the ones i've tried only do half a job or dont recognise the vehicle.

Hiya, sorry for late reply. Ive been away. Much as id like to be, Im not an Esprit person. However, Im told that the Toyota V6 engine (Exige or Evora) can be accomodated into the bay using an adaptor plate to the transmission. To me thats a loot of engineering though! Assuming yours was originally a 4 cylinder engine, my choice would be to keep the stock engine and do a fuel injection conversion. Whatever you decide on, good luck.

Yeah,I know. You're absolutely right, and I may well end up doing just that, but, A. I love this car, B. The car is so well sorted, and C, I like to tinker! I was really just after a bit of advice from anyone who may have done this conversion before.

I have an early series 3 Elise with the 1ZR 1.6 litre Toyota engine. I find this quite under powered compared with the 1.8 supercharged version. I'm thinking about swapping the engine for the bigger one. Has anyone done this before? If so were there any pitfalls that you can share with me? Also can anyone tell me what Toyota models I can source the parts from, assuming the Lotus version is identical in spec. to the Toyota version? Any thoughts would be welcome!

Did you find the answer to your problem? It would be good to know, as I have exactly the same symptoms on my 2010 Elise. When I press the middle button of the ignition key, I don't hear the priming pump anymore. Inertia switch is OK, and F1 tests good and has voltage present.

My 2011 S3 Elise is fitted with the original Alpine CDE-111RM CD radio head unit. This had a redundant factory fitted aux lead for connection to an early Iphone or iPod. I searched to see if a different led with a lightning connector was available, but Ifound on Amazon an amazing Bluetooth receiver that is a straight plug in replacement for this lead! I’ve plugged this into the back of the head unit, connected up the + and - to the power. Result: I now have Bluetooth audio without having to replace the head unit. Result!!

For Mark S. These diagrams have been really useful thanks. I don't suppose you can put the whole document on here? Or even just let me know the Lotus drawing number, I could probably source it myself? This is mainly because I have one or two other electrical issues to resolve incl. instrument cluster lights. Any help would be appreciated thanks.

OK, So the DRL I thought was faulty, was actually OK, Its the one on the other side that comes on with the ignition that is faulty, as they SHOULD only illuminate when the engine is running. (The headlight unit receives a ground signal from the ECU on pin 6 of the connector, which activates the electronics in the light unit. ) I took the risk, to carefully split open the faulty light unit with a hot air gun, to see if I could find the fault. I immediately found that someone has been in there before and bodged it! (See attached picture) So if anyone has a good PCB from an Elise series 3 headlight for sale please contact me. (Photo also attached).

This fault has proved to be the headlight unit itself. I'm guessing there's a printed circuit board within the light assembly that has gone faulty. As its fairly easy to open the light unit using a hot air gun to warm up the glue to get inside it, I'm now looking for a replacement PCB for the L/H headlight. If anyone has a smashed headlight unit or just the PCB out of one I would like to get in touch with you.

Thanks very much Mark, I definitely couldn't have done it without the diagram! I've now found that both L&R DRL lights are illuminated OK when the engine is running, but only L when the ignition is on. This means its getting a good supply from the EMS, but not the C8 fuse. It can only be a disconnection, or poor connection from pin 5 on the lights multi-plug to the fuse. I'll post on here what I find. Thanks again.

With the ignition switched on, only one DRL lights up. When the sidelights are switched on, both lights come on (with the correct lowered brightness). Has anyone got any idea what the fault could be? I cant find a wiring diagram for this model, so any help would be appreciated please?