Mike C Sailor

I suspect an earthing problem and very, very strongly suggest you check and service the engine earth strap before cranking again. Preferably renew it and in any case, clean the contacts, assemble and rustproof with waxoyl or grease. If this earth is not good, several hundred amps may try to find a way to earth via say clutch cable, throttle cable, LT wiring, whatever; the risk of fire is substantial. I renewed mine and added a second to different points for safety.

This makes me wonder if you have a problem with the ignition wiring, the route that bypasses the ballast resistance wire when you crank. When you release the key it reverts to the normal route via the ballast resistance and evidently that works. It might be worth checking if you have a spark when cranking, if not it would explain your symptoms and indicate what to look for.

Thanks for helpful comments. The diff is out, not too bad as bolts and nuts were not seized and the motorcycle platform jack and frame worked well, still needed juggling to get it out. I plan to raise the car a bit more before assembling. The adjuster levers are sometimes available on Ebay, but as you say they do seem to need some adjusting to clear the rubber cover and to engage with the teeth. A slight twist to the end of the lever seems to help to engage the teeth. I will of course test them thoroughly before putting the diff back. Several years ago I had two problems here. One adjuster had broken (handbrake part was OK), other side just didn't work. As a temporary fix I drilled 2 holes 180deg apart (to keep balance) in the drums, level with the lower part of the ratchet. This enabled me to adjust the brakes manually ... it worked, but I didn't like it !!!!! OK, I've owned up to a bodge. In fact it wasn't too bad as the rears don't wear that much so rarely needed adjusting. It's good to have a backup method if adjusters fail again. Anyway I'm now trying to fix things properly.

Looks like the best way is to make a frame and use a scissor type platform jack; I googled this and got a fright at the prices of professional gear. But on Ebay I found motor cycle scissor lifting stands at reasonable prices, so have ordered a better one with castors and a platform 14ins x 9ins, £72. The platform is smaller than I'd like but should be OK used carefully with a frame; much better than the trolley jack. I'm hopeful - and grateful!

All really great suggestions, helpful and encouraging! Really nice to be in touch with enthusiasts. I have already made the access holes as per Pete B's great help, but even with this and with a lot of feeling around I'm sure I can't remove the cylinders, which I need to do to replace a broken adjuster lever. Also I will check and clean the cylinders and fit new seals, or new cylinders if necessary (and I know about the diameter issue). I can make up a wood frame as suggested. I will also have a good look and perhaps some ropes from the arms of the diff holder through the access holes might be possible to stabilise things. As a boat owner I have ropes, pulleys and a chain lift. But the scissor platform jack looks best, I'll look into this. I have in the past done the oil seals, some time ago but very few miles on them. One thing I'll mention about this; one side was leaking and when examined, the part of the shaft the seal runs on was worn and not good even after cleaning and polishing. So I got the recess in the seal housing machined a mm or two deeper so the seal ran on better part of the shaft. Anyway, there are no oil or brake fluid leaks ... fingers crossed it stays that way. Thanks guys!

My first post here, as I struggle restoring my 1976 Elite. I already know of some of you from the Lotus Grand Tourers group. I need to drop the diff for brake work, and I remember from many years ago it was very hard getting it back; seems it needs 2 hands to work 2 jacks, 2 hands to keep it steady, one more to align it and another to start fastening it in place. As I'm now much older and not so strong, it will be a problem and no way can I remove the wheel cylinders with the diff in place, even having cut holes in the body for access. First question; if I slackened the front diff mounting nuts right off but left the nuts on, would it be possible to drop the rear of the diff to give enough access to work on the brakes? Next question; I see it is necessary to disconnect brake hoses or pipes. I've seen Drawfiler's excellent writeup about diff removal but this point isn't clear to me and any advice would be appreciated.