elandri

If sport mode in the Elise (or anythign else) is invoked by presenting a brief ground condition to the ECU it should work. You'd need to check wiring diagrams to see.

See Agentdr8 post on A N Other forum re difficulty of identifying/sourcing the econnectors: "Not for the Sport button PCB. IIRC, last time I tried to find it, they weren't easily sourced and may have been an NLA connector from AMP". Good idea re the sideamp backlight as Vcc source. I'd missed this because Sheet D1A in the PDF of the wiring diagrams I have is missing an inch or so from the the top and r/h edges of the digram so I can't see the LED, identify which wire goes to it or which source it might come from. Frustrating! Does anyone have a complete version of that sheet so we can idenify the correct cable? On the 400 diagram the source is the "Key in" line - which would be good - but the colours are different.

I've left the choice of 2 x 555 or 1 x 556 to the guy who's designing the pcb. Plugs and leads would be tidy but (probably) a pain to identify the correct housing / terminals and crimp tool. Some of those tools cost £100s. They'd also take ages to make. I did look at the diagram but it's not at all clear (well, not to me) that there's a usable Vcc. It's all either signal out from ECU looking for Gnd through the switches or LED drives.

I'd say on a silver car the black looks a lot better. Great thread. Wish I had the space (and enthusiasm)!

KISS! ☺️

Hi all, Having to press the sport button every time really annoys me so I got thinking about how it might be automated. After a bit of rooting through the wiring diagrams I decided to have a go at building a simple timer to simulate the button press. Timing is important. I tried starting the car with the button pushed and it didn't engage sport. So, it needs to be off when the engine started, then on briefly, then off again. Pencil out I explored a few designs & options but settled on the 555 timer as I had some to hand and they are one of the few chips that can handle 15V. My circuit employs two 555s (you can get a dual 555 chip - the 556 - but I didn't have any) with associated components and an opto-coupler output. With the basic idea drawn I breadboarded the circuit, refined a few component values and wired it in to the Evora. Seems to work a treat. I took power from the "Key in" line to the head unit (which I had out anyway), Ground and the Sport Mode lines come from splices into the "Driving Switch" cable just behind the fascia. Those three are the only connections required. So, key in, timer1 starts, you have approx. 15 seconds to start the engine before timer 2 gives a a simulated 2 second push in the button. Sport is engaged. If you want it off just press the button as normal. So, from here I could either just make a "proper one" on Vero board for myself or, if a few like minded individuals want to share the cost, we could have PCBs made. it's not very expensive these days. I'd guess I could get ten done for c£150-ish. Anyone interested? PS - I must stress that, while this works fine in my garage, it hasn't had extensive on the road testing so there may be bugs to iron out yet.

@grog I've installed a Pioneer SPH-DA230DAB but I get no picture at all (switches to rev camera input and displays parking lines - but black screen). From what you say above it should work then? Does the control box not receive the camera feed on the 5/6 pin connector and then send it to the HU via the yellow RCA socket marked V OUT ? I understand that the camera is NTSC (have tried all formats though!)? Am about to lash up a bullet camera I have to hand and try it with another Pioneer HU so as to have a known good test unit.

Any news on the Evora front?

Thanks guys, I think I'll get it put on, tee it into the airbox flap vac and see if I think I need extra control. I have a pal who is an MSA scrutineer and has a his very own calibrated noise meter. That should at least let me know if I'm OK for the static noise tests. Will have to wait and see on the drive by front. Will keep you posted.

No-one with a view on this then? @Doug Ashley? @thealastair34?

Quick update, I've bought an Exige valved silencer which is on its way. Apparently only did 50 miles on the car before being replaced. So, thinking ahead to installation / control a couple of general questions: It's noted above that the valve is normally open (i.e. with no vacuum connection it's loud). So, presumably, relies on vacuum to close it (quiet)? My understanding is that vacuum is greatest on a closed throttle and reduces as the throttle is opened and manifold depression becomes nearer to atmospheric. So, I'm struggling to understand how a solenoid valve can do anything other than invoke full "loud mode" or how a restrictor would delay the opening of the valve. I'd have though it would hasten it? Have I got the wrong end of the stick? Mr Confused awaits his "Numpty of the Year Award🤔!

So, to check if I'm understanding things...... Is it the case that: 1) the exhaust valve is vacuum operated and you have obtained the vacuum by teeing into a pipe that provides vac to operate a flap in the airbox. 2) @Doug Ashley installed a solenoid valve between the tee and the exhaust valve so he could remotely disable exhaust valve operation. 3) @thealastair34 installed a carb jet in that line to limit the vacuum supply to the exhaust valve which delays it's activation till 3000 revs.

Good question. I believe it was fitted in 2015, not sure when 2bular started putting valves on? Is it possible to tell with removing the diffuser? Exige option sounds like it might suit me pretty well then. Yes, it is one you've probably seen. Good idea re carb jet to adjust opening

Hi all, I've just bought an NA with a 2bular exhaust and it seems I'm the only man in the world that doesn't like it:)! I don't mind hearing it when I'm having fun but when cruising at 70 on a level throttle I find it drone-ey when I'd really like silence. So, I wondered if the valved exhaust would suit me better and would appreciate the benefit of your experience? I'd like to cater for three types of use: 1) Country road driving - don't mind if it's a bit loud. 2) Dual carriageway cruising - quiet as poss pls. 3) Track days - have to pass those noise tests even at full chat. Apart from the rear box what do I need to buy? I'm not clear on the options above 're remote radio control valves and/or teeing into the airbox flap. Could someone explain in a little more detail pls? Thanks in advance!