pmth95

@drdoom thank you it now makes sense. I am considering adding them back but they seem hard to source. I can try and 3dprint them, anyone have a picture of an existing one? (have not found any online)

What are the red circled holes for in this Bulkhead Trim Panel (early federal)?

3 of my rails randomly jam, one works perfectly. On the 3 that jam, the bearing carriers are no longer in the proper position and just jam whenever they hit the multiple dimples in the rails. Doesn’t seem fixable. Might go with fixed passenger seat and find a working rail (the one without the locking handle) to fix the driver’s seat.

I will look into replacing the webbing myself, @LOTUSMAN33 thank you for confirming it is original. As for the seat rail, it randomly locks with 2 to 3 inches of travel. If i slide it back and forth I can get the rail all the way back where the top and bottom rail align. But that still doesn’t undercover that front bolt. With a thin wrench i might be able to reach it and slowly turn it.

My seats were re-upholstered in 1984 from their original tartan to a grey velvet. While I have the passenger seat out I am trying to figure out 1) How to get to the front bolts that hold the rails? My rails barely move a couple of inches, not enough to slide past the front bolt (rear one is removed on the picture) 2) What does the original webbing of the seat look like? Anyone have a picture of the back of the seat? Here is what mine looks like Cheers, Patrick

@rgh0 would you happen to have the part number for those?

Happened to find pictures of 104H (the car just before 105H) and it has the same door panel gaps as mine.

Anyone have experience with a Mangoletsi linkage on an Esprit? To try and solve a surging idle when warm, i was going to try to install a Mangoletsi linkage I am running into three issues (see pictures): 1) carb link bar too short by 10mm. I do have a few ideas how to extend it 2) the rear arm and pivot of the Mangoletsi interferes with both the gas hose and the choke cross carb linkage. The movement of that arm crosses both. I can re-route the gas line rather easily, but cannot think of an elegant solution for the choke link.

I’ll try swapping the diaphragms to see if the 12.4ml at MAX threads follows the diaphragm. It is not so much the difference between the 2 carbs that is the issue but the fact that i have reached MAX exposed threads on both. All pump jets are the same (58). I’ll re-read the manual, only saw info on Webers in the accelerator pump section.

Pretty much, each barrel just slightly different from the other. Float heights were set last year. Carbs hooked up to fuel pump so there should be no supply problem. Carbs were not ultrasonic cleaned, i might do it this winter.

So I made a poor man's version of the @LOTUSMAN33 setup and was able to measure the exact 20 Stroke ml per barrel. MY ISSUE: I need to expose ALL the possible threads and I still do not get to 15ml (7.5 + 7.5) on the front carb. I rebuilt these carbs last year, car runs fine except for a fuel drip after each ride in the K&N Air Filters. I understand that the exposed threads should be minimally adjusted but I simply cannot get close to the 15ml without going to the MAX exposed threads. DHLA45 - Rebuilt a year ago Rear Carb Exposed thread from 4.6mm to 6.9mm (MAX) Initial 20 Stroke ml: 4.0 + 3.4 = 7.4ml Final 20 Stroke ml: 7.8+7.0 = 14.8ml Front Carb Exposed thread from 6.4mm to 9.5mm (MAX) Initial 20 Stroke ml: 2.6 + 2.6 = 5.2ml Final 20 Stroke ml: 6.0 + 6.4 = 12.4ml Any Ideas? NOTE: I did just clean the accelerator pump jets

Happened to stop by the Pontiac Museum in Pontiac, and took the time for couple of pictures in front of the new Mural

With the right spring compressor it was actually quite straight forward both front and rear.

For the speaker modification i see a yellow oval shape in the fiberglass just below the circular cutout. I am guessing that is the original speaker. I confirm door cards are a snug fit around the shells.

@Fridge Yes the interior was changed from Tartan to a gray velvet back in 1984-85. There is a chance the door panels were modified, although i cannot see anything beyond the speaker modification. As for the top of the panel there is an aluminium L shaped profile riveted to the inside. This profile “hooks” over the door shell. Pictures attached.

Here is what i made. Holds the radiator under tray much better.

@Paul Coleman Door card is hooked over the two ends of the door shell. The door shell and door card match in size.

This is what is left of the “beam” at the top of the door shell. Both sides are the same.

Never noticed until now that i also have a gap where the door panel meets with the dashboard (armrest should be level with dashboard). Looks like the door panel was shortened height wise Does this panel look original?

My inside door panels are 39.5cm high. Is this standard? They have a gap at the top that leaves the outside weather seal visible when the window is down (a black band on the window pane hides it when window fully closed) I see other S1s have the panel flush with outside skin

Car started right up today so i guess it was always off by three teeth.

The ram pipes on my DHLA carbs are 48mm with just 15mm clearance to the filter plate. Shouldn’t there be more clearance using smaller length pipes?

It is my understanding that the flywheel marks are more accurate than the crankshaft marks, as the diameter of the flywheel is so much larger the precision is better.

I have a pertronix ignition and no vacuum capsule on the distributor, so rotation should not be an issue. Was thinking of going with a 123 distributor in the future, I’ll check if the shape of the 123 has the potential for interference. I guess i am the one trying to figure out what was done previously on the car. I’ll record it and decide when i do the next timing belt if i want to change it back to “normal”

Just installed a new timing belt using markings from the old belt transferred to the new one. No interference while rotating engine. While double checking alignment of the Ignition sprocket per the manual, I see it is 3 teeth offset from the center line (see picture) Option1: Ok to leave it as is, car ran before and according to@Sparky in this post, timing can be adjusted later to compensate for such an offset Option2: Might as well redo it correctly (even though i was hoping not to deal with the tensioner again).