fjmuurling

The fuel smell is not normal but can be solved. It probably (and hopefully) is a perished hose. See the follwing article on LEW. Fuel Smell Freek

Hello, Does anybody have the source code for freescan for me ?? I can not find my way around in sourceforge.net so I hope someone can help me. Many thanks in advance. Freek

The recommended plugs for a 1990 SE are NGK BPR6EKN. Make sure the gap (2 on each plug) is between 0.9 and 1.0 mm. check by means of a round feeler pin. Freek

Hi Jonathan, below are some thoughts / information about AC in the Esprit I renewed my aircon system recently after 4 years of driving without it (it wasn't working). In the end I'm glad I did. It is a big job to do, the only thing I didn't change was the evaporator. Power - In general an engine driven compressor can consume about 4 HP (maybe even more) when engaged which equals around 4 * 736 Watt = 2.9 KW Space - An "original" system doesn't take much space, almost all components are "nicely" placed in void spaces, if you put an aftermarket system in the car you lose luggage space which you might need if you go on long trips. Weight - a very rough estimate about the weight of an original AC system is that it weighs about 15 to 20 kgs. (The old compressor weighs 7.4 kg) Freek

Just a snap shot of my car. Freek

Hi Malc, like Bibs I think it is just a mistake, 2.5 years ago I fitted A918E0322F into my 4 pot and it was a direct replacement for B910E6930F, the connector was the square one no splicing etc. needed. Hope this puts your mind a little bit to ease. Freek

Hai Jim, I have no hands on comparison as I never had a working AC system in the car. I know that the R12 has better cooling capacities compared to a R134a system (same size). The new R134a compressor has a slightly bigger displacement (140 vs 131 cubic cm) compared to the old R12 one. The expansion valve is also made for R134a. When i started this project I had no choisce other than making the system suitable for R134a as R12 is not allowed/available anymore. The other thing to consider (in my opinion) is that the design and layout of the ventilation/AC system in our cars is far from ideal and thus making is not as efficient as possible. All considerd in the end I'm happy with the system capabilities, even though it is not perfect. Freek

FINISHED and more important WORKING. Last week I mounted the newly made adaptor (used loctite 586) onto the evaporator, this week the last o-ring coupling was fitted onto the suction hose fitted to the evaporator adaptor. The sytem was pressure tested and found to be leakfree. After filling the system with R134a the system was tested and working so I could finally finish this project. I still had to do some small jobs namely applying the tar insulation tape and fitting the passenger chair as well as the glovebox. I also tested the electronic control unit to be sure it was working. In order to test it I fitted a 5 Kohm variabel resistor instead of the sensorto the small "black box"and connected a multimeter the (disconneted on the compressor) wire which supplies the 12V for the operating of the Compressor Clutch. Operating of the various controls proved that the elctronic where working as the should be, so everything was connected again. The custom made adaptor, and some of the tartape for insulation. The new service ports, I applied "tectyl" on them in order to prevent corrosion. Today I took the car for a test drive, I'm glad the AC was working because it was warm and humid. The system worked fine and no problems where found so I'm very happy. Freek thx Allan for your comment

I'm glad for you to have your project up and running again. Keep up the good work. Freek

Stupid me, I forgot to make a picture of the newly made adaptor (which I just picked up and fitted it this afternoon) before fitting. The adaptor is a custom made piece which converts the old connection on the condensor to a new O-ring tyoe connection used in R-134a systems. The adaptor is fitted with Loctite and left to dry for a couple of days. Next week the system will be pressure tested and if all is OK will be filled and cmpleted. I will let you know the outcome and have some pictures. Freek

Simple words G

Here is a small update. All the hoses are connected (since 19-5-2009) except one namely the hose that goes onto the biggest coupling of the evaporator (suction hose from evaporator to compressor). The big problem is to find a suitable hosecoupling which fits on the big evaporator connection (see pic below big open ended connection on the left). We tried several couplings however on all those the taper which takes care of the sealing is not the same. The next and last plan is to make one up of several parts and fit it with loctite. If that fails the evaporator needs to come out so a new connection can be fitted. I'll be back Freek

Maybe the following link pressure switches is an idea. Freek

Hi Al, this is what i fiited in my 1990 SE and put in the Xreflist also. Front Wheel Bearings: A089C8005F (Outer bearing) SKF bearing LM 11949/910/Q (Cup is LM11910/Q and Cone is LM11949/Q) A089C8004F (Inner bearing) SKF bearing LM 67048/010/Q (Cup is LM67010/Q and Cone is LM67048/Q) The seal has an outer diameter of 62mm, the inner diameter is 48 mm and the thickness is 7 mm. I used one with an additional dustlip. I fitted the bearings in my 1990 SE and the price was around 80 Euro for a whole set (2 Front wheels) including the 2 seals. Freek

Hi all, finally the beast is alive again after being worked on for 4 months due to the renewal of my AC system. The job is almost complete (see the AC renewal thread) I hope to finish it this week. The car came to life at the first startup . When I had the car out of the garage my wife made me fit the passenger chair, the inner sill panel and the govebox lid before I could take the car out for a test drive. The glovebox lid and the chair need to come out later again in order to finalise the AC renewal project (new hose coupling, pressure testing hooking up hoses and insulating things again, nothing major). My wife also took the car out for a testdrive, it was already getting dark. Freek

Some more Cool Stuff The shown hose is the new one which connects the Drier with the Evaporator, the other picture shows the new TX Valve (=Expansion Valve) suitable for R134a with the old elbow which connects to the Evaporator. The positon of the two parts shown is the same as how the old parts were fitted together, however when I put them in the car I ended up with a different line up of the TX Valve and the elbow due to a different routing of the hoses under the dashboard. The LH and the RH Oilcooler ducting placed back again with the use of new stainless steel bolts, nuts, washers and screws. The spoiler is back in place. At first I put the spoiler back before fitting of the oilcooler ducting which didn't work so I had to take the spoiler off again for the fitting of the ducting. Removal was now a breeze because of the new stainless steel fasteners. When I started dismantling the car I removed the ducting before I could remove the spoiler but that was due to needing better access to bolts and nut which ha to be cur or ground off. The other picture shows the new hoses which run in the RH inner sill. More to come in the next and maybe final update. At the moment I allready had 2 days of fun with driving the car. Yep the beast is alive. Everything is working fine except for the AC but that is because I need to hook up the hoses to compressor (they need to be made and connected) and I need one new coupling on one of the hoses. After that it is pressure testing, vacuuming the system and filling with R134a if everything is fine. Freek

Didn't Dermot do something similar maybe he can shine some light on the subject. I wouldn't run pipes pipes outside the chassis as they are well protected inside the chassis. Maybe insulating the various lines inside the chassis is an option although I realise it will be a big and major job to do. I would start with insulating the chargecooler from the engine as well as insulating the pipe/hoses of the chargecooler system inside the enginebay and see how much effect this has. Depending on the results you can then decide to take things up a step or not. These are just my

I'm back again, putting more new pieces back to where they really belong. I used some threaded rods in conjunction with some washers and nuts to get the radiator undertray back up again. New AC hoses can be seen dangling on the left side. The other picture shows one of the new oil coolers complete with new foam strips. The RH Oilcooler (as well as the LH one) was (were) put back again after the undertray. My car also suffered from the 90 deg alloy pipe pinhole syndrome so this one was also replaced in combination with some new silicone hoses. The 135deg hose on the left is shown in a wrong positon it needs to be rotated 180 deg and it also needed to be shortened on both sides of the bend. The nice and shiny parts being tucked away and the front end waiting for the fitting of the spoiler. Hopefully I will be back soon with the remaining pictures Freek

Yoou are right I ment the commutator (is same as collector in dutch). When I did my windows and motors I took the whole lifting mechanism out and cleaned everything etc and put new grease in the applicable places. The motors I took apart as well and cleaned everything, polished the commutators etc. In the end I tested everything on my workbench if it things were running smoothly. The current draw before the overhaul was around 4A and after the overhaul the current went down to 2A. These measurement were taken with the lifting mechanism out of the door. Freek

Hi Ian, the shown end in the picture is juste a bearing, clean that part up and (rotor and housing) and put some small amount of grease on. How is the other end of the roror (ie the collector) and how are the carbon brushes ?? Freek

Russ and Kylie thanks for the feedback, much appreciated, more pictures will come, the car needs to be running mid april for a drive with other classic cars. Freek

Hi all back again with an update. Here are the Bumper and the Spoiler Separated so I could remove all the rusty brackets etc. I started to freshen up the radiator, some of the newly fabricated stainless steel brackets mounted in the bumper. This is how the fanshroud looked like when I was dismantling it. Remember the nice shiny plates with all the holes drilled in? This is were they ended up, in the corners of the undertray. I had the brackets for the Fans powdercoated and bolted everything together with all stainless steel nuts and bolts. I also made some repairs to the platic fanshroud as well. I hope you enjoy the pictorial. Freek More piccies, More wonders of powdercoating. I made a trial fitting of the undertray after putting the bumper back in place. I also put the oilcoolers temporarily back on in order to make some markings (white line on the undertray lip) in order to remove a small part of the lip in order to aid removal of the undertray in the future if the need arises without the need to remove the oilcoolers. The Radiator is being rejoined again with the fans and they are being put back again in the modified undertray, awaitng the fitting of a new Condensor Chargecooler Radiator assembly. Here you can see the part I removed from the undertray, I also did this on the other side of the Undertray. The other picture is one of the new AC components. I bought this one some time ago in the Lotus sale and now it is finally going to the right place where it belongs instead of being kept in storage in a box. More to come. Freek

Hi Glyn, use a glass jar, a tin is probably galvanized and will be eaten by the NaOH solution. Glass is heatresistant and the solution will not boil (I didn't experience it). Freek

Hi Chris, I just looked in the manual but the 2 pumps are connected in series and both need to be running. After the secondary fuel pump there is the accumulator which dampens out pressure pulses in the fuel line and also takes care of keeping the fuel system pressurized if the engine is stopped. Are you sure your two pumps are running ?? Freek

Hi Glyn, I don't know what concentration I used. I just filled a glass jar with hot water and let the affected coupling hanging in the water. Make sure the thing is oil/grease free otherwise it is not going to work or very slow. Once the coupling is in the jar with the water i just put some (a fair amount) of the NaOH beads in afterwards I just stirred (not shaken) until everything of the NaOH is dissolved. You can tell that the NAOH solution is working when you see the forming of very small bubbles. Maybe you have to renew the solution a couple of times. It can take some time. I did it on an evening but when everything was in place I had to work and I just left it and thought well I have a look when I come back which I forgot, I chekced everything aprox 24 hrs later and voila the aluminium was gone. DO USE GLOVES AND A EYEPROTECTION JUST IN CASE. Let me know how it goes. As for the upper nut (do you mean the 28 mm thin nut) I ended up of cutting it through with my trusted dremel with the flex shaft. Freek