Jack

Arun, if you need a new windshield (or just for future reference), see if you can get this product in the UK -- it can save you time, money and concern that the windshield replacement tech will inadvertently cause some paint damage..... http://www.clearplex.com/pages/about-media-videos

Since we're going naked, here's a few more ...........

I've been running these wheels on the CupR and they fit fine. I am running more aggressive geo settings as I'm on slicks. The wheels are hub-centric and require no spacers. Fronts are the same width as stock but with a bit more aggressive offset than stock (20mm vs 26.3) and fit well within the front fender wells; rear wheels have the same offset as tock (35mm) but are 10" instead of 9.5" wide, so they provide ~6mm less back space and stick out towards the fenders by ~6mm as well. No rubbing front or rear, even with maximum negative camber.

SRF is the best, IMHO .... also the most expensive. It has the highest "wet" boiling point of any brake fluid, as far as I know.

Correct.

Have had this one since 2008 and still love it ...... especially when driven in its natural habitant.

I have an extra LMS carbon fibre intake (as on CupR) plus an additional new HKS filter -- all available for 600 $US (~395 pounds) plus actual shipping costs from US. Any interest, please PM me.

Love it Jokke, keep them coming. You are fast! What you need is a different gearbox and you would be even FASTER! I know, you also need a sponsor. Our tracks are not as scenic (especially in the South-West US), as they are typically built in desert locations. Here's a video of my Cup on a relatively short (2.1 miles) track configuration -- Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch has approximately 20 configurations ranging from 1.5 to 5.8 miles in length. This East 2.1 course is used by Spring Mountain for their Ron Fellows Corvette Driving School.

Yes, we need a report on the road force measurements before and after? ;)

I may not have been clear in my very first post, so let me try again. My CupR originally came from the factory with ~ 2.25 degrees negative camber in the rear. I had the shop "max out" my rear camber by moving the eccentric/pivot bolt as far as possible. This got me to ~ 2.6/2.7 degrees negative. To get more, the shop said they would have to re-locate the guide plate and they thought that it would be possible..... BUT, I have not had them attempt to do it. So, I have no first-hand knowledge as to whether relocating the guide is feasible. I gather it would require substantial work, welding and the like. Unless the CupR rear suspension is different (I don't believe it is) than on the other V6 Exiges, I'm surprised that you can't get more than 2.2 degrees by maxing out the eccentric camplate/ bolt. If I recall correctly, it does require some force and two people were doing the job -- one tech was pushing the lower wishbone/lower portion of the wheel with quite a bit of force and holding it in position while another tech was tightening the pivot bolt. The car was on an alignment rack with the tire/wheel on slip plates with the wishbones in their proper ride height, i.e., the car was not jacked up. Hope this makes sense.

You're welcome. I've had good luck with the Hunter gsp9700 and now have all my balancing done on that machine to avoid the hassle of having to get the job done twice. The Road Force machine will tell the operator if either the wheel or tire is "out of round" and indicate the "high spot". Tire manufactures absolutely hated this machine when it first arrived at tire shops as it highlighted defects in their tires and more returns were the result. It does take a competent and patient operator to minimize the road force variable (which shows up in pounds of road force). For our lightweight cars, your goal is to get the road force measurement below 20 lbs (with the front assemblies being the most important). Obviously, the lower this number the better. SUVs and the like can get away with road force measurements as high as 30-35 pounds without the driver feeling excessive vibrations. Btw, no tire/wheel assembly will be free of all road force or at least I've never seen a "0" pop on the Hunter screen.

Greg, which point exactly and I will give it a try? I don't have any photos of the work being done -- I had my race shop make the changes, but I may be able to find illustrations in the V6 shop manual for you.

Phillip, I actually had a similar problem with my stock wheels and tires on the CupR as it came from the factory. Even though the wheel/tire assembly would show as balanced on a standard dynamic balancing machine, there was a bad steering wheel vibration above 70 mph. Solution was getting the assembly "road-force" balanced on a Hunter 9700 balancing machine. . More info about the machine here: http://www.gsp9700.com and... Don't know if there are shops with the machine in the UK. Good luck.

Congrats Arun ..... enjoy it to the max!

Dry sump system is wonderful ... it does add some complexity and a few more failure points. At least that's what I've seen with the Radical. BOE suggests a dry sump system if you're running a sequential; as they have experienced several "standard" oil pump gear failures on non-dry sump 2ZZ cars with sequential transmissions. FWIW, my experience with a quality baffled oil pan -- I've never seen oil starve in any of my data. Sure there's been some fluctuations in oil pressure during a track sessions (depending upon the G's :)) but never a drop that would have ever triggered the accusump. I've been running Yoko slicks for well over 15,000 track miles on my 2-Eleven.

Yes, a couple after-market companies make a dry sump system for the 2ZZ -- BOE being one of them ..... http://www.boefab.com. FWIW, virtually all the Lotus Cup USA folks get by just fine with a baffled oil pan and slicks.

Jonny, was that a Lotus factory/test driver? If so, I'm surprised that she didn't seem to try to rev-match on downshifts. Good thing the manual transmission comes from a Toyota truck application -- perhaps the synchros are more robust than my experience with other Lotus (Toyota sourced) transmissions.

Good driving Jokke! Add a smarty cam wired to your AIM DL and we can all see your rpms, speed, throttle, G's and lap times.

Sounds great. Let me (us) know what spring rates you Bilstein decide to go with. I thought that the rear Ohlin spring rates that came on my car were quite high ... maybe not?

Frank, are your current shocks adjustable, compression and rebound? Will the new Bilsteins be adjustable? I'm also finding mid-corner understeer to be a problem even with more than 2 degrees of negative camber, although I can minimize it with some shock adjustments .... front, trying stiffer rebound/softer compression; rear, trying stiffer compression, softer rebound ..... attempting to slow the weight transfer front to rear when trying to get to the throttle early, before (or no later than) the corner apex point. Unfortunately, stiffer rear compression can result in possible throttle oversteer at times. New tires up front definitely helps with understeer. The problem is that these adjustments are always a compromise .... improving handling in certain areas on track and hurting it in other portions.

Steve, I didn't do the work myself, but if you are handy it's definitely "doable" by an amateur. It can be plug and play into the car's ECU with AIM's ECU bridge or direct wire, which may require a bit more skill. How you fit it into the binnacle can require some "fabrication" skills for the best look. Without the addition of extra sensors, your logged data (and what can be displayed on the dash) will be limited to what is available on the ECU stream. All the important stuff (and much more) is there, Some photos below of the 25 ECU channels you can see with one of the AIM CAN templates for the Lotus. Also, for some photos of the MXS install and more info can, go here .... http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/74217-need-more-data-from-my-cupr/page-1 Hope this helps.

LOL ... thanks. Just noticed the 3Eleven utilizes the above-the-diffuser exhaust exit .... better aero.

I obviously agree ......

Just the rear muffler. Car, stock, had no catalysts in the exhaust manifolds. Next up will be headers .... should provide a modest increase in HP and torque.

Frank, the question that prompted my post was about the intercooler in the 3Eleven. The Cup360 has no intercooler, hence no boost increase, hence the modest crank HP increase.