stevefh444@hotmail.com

One man job then wedge holds it in position making it easier to torque

Thanks John,but I decided not to use this method as I was wary of damaging the casing. I made a block of wood square at one end and 2.5cm thick and 5 cm wide.One long edge 20cm and the opposite edge 22cm to make a wedge.Pull up the alternator on it’s pivot bolt,jam the square end against the chassis near the water down pipe and force the sloping end in against the casing holding it in position and providing the correct movement for my length belt and making it easy to torque up.

Hi all,have put the triangular brace back and loosely refitted the alternator.How do I lever the alternator and against what,to get the correct play in it’s belt,what is the mm play and how/where do I check it? I am lying on top of the engine,left hand swinging the alternator upwards ,right hand attempting to do the adjusting strap clamp bolt up but I can’t get the tension anywhere near tight enough.Thanks for any help.

Thanks Sparky, I couldn’t easily see 10 straddling the mark as I expected to see that.Next week I will clean it up and get a good light on it. I take from your post you are certain flywheel in 5’s,Thanks again

Hi Sparky ,it’s not I think they are wrong, I want someone who is positive that the flywheel timing marks represent 5 degrees . I thought the flywheel interval was 10 degrees until I looked at section EF PAGE 18 diagram showing two intervals,the second marked 10.Thanks for any help. I thought

Hi all,my previous post did not receive a precise answer to this.Have you used the cam belt tension frequency method? If so did you use the crankshaft pulley marks assuming 10,20,30 degrees before TDC?Or more helpful to me,did you use the flywheel assuming 5,10,15,....degrees before TDC?Did you use flywheel...10,20,30,....,which I believe is incorrect

It looks like in section EF page 18 diagram that two intervals are 10 degrees !! Somebody please confirm 5 degrees per interval and of course makes the initial 141Hz irrelevant

This is why I asked the question. I was thinking if the material of the belt does not expand the distance around its run would be shorter at lower temperatures than higher temperatures since metal contracts as the temperature drops.Therefore if I am setting at 4 degrees C I should set it at most 100Hz,anyone have a reason for me to set less than this? Then when it heats up the belt would become tighter and the frequency would increase. Also am I correct in thinking that the marks on the flywheel to the left of TDC are 10 degrees apart ie 10 before ,20 before,30 before TDC,are there any more?If this is correct,I have tried to set “30 before”at least a dozen times and it will not settle in the exact position,lobe/spring interaction?I have not turned the engine backwards.Any comments please.My first setting was 141 Hz and I have stopped for the day

Hi, I have the air box and alternator off to do it from above so I want to get it right first time if I can.

Hi all,non frequency method says only adjust when ambient temperature between 15 and 25 degrees C. I am going to use frequency method 100 to 110 Hz at 30 before TDC.Opinions on what frequency I should set when the ambient temperature is 4 to6 degrees C,does the low temperature shrink the belt,not affect it,lessen the distance between the pulleys?Can I ignore the temperature ?Thanks for any help

Hi all, Can you adjust the tensioner a) from above only b) with ordinary 19mm ring spanner and 17mm socket torque wrench c)what do you need to remove/loosen to get access. D) If any of this is not possible would anyone with their S4 engine out see if it possible to bend flat bar to make 19mm and 17mm “spanner’s” that will do the job from above with minimum effort .Thanks for any info.

Hi all, eurocarparts.com have oil 50% off,use Code HOLIDAY50,gives Castrol Edge FST 10w60 4 lt.for £29.99 with free delivery til Monday night

Hi sparky, I wanted to buy one beforehand.As I have your attention l am doing many jobs soon.S4 lhs petrol tank:taking the cam towers off to do the shims,will this allow enough room to get tank out? I have the sidewall etc.completely off but the air intake housing on the inside adjacent to the window and the strut support fixing and engine cover "ledge" corner seem to be in the way.Will try to change the bolt when cam towers off.Thanks for any help

Hi all,previously copied a reply on here that the required change is to caphead M6x45,my S4 parts diagram lists the water pump bolts as 30,40 and 50mm.Comments please.

Hi sparky,just to see what it is and to give the frequency method a try.Thanks for info Steve