eddie111S

Henry, Sounds like it's a directivity issue, ie as you say the positioning of the flaps. Have you taken the fibre-glass cover off in the front luggage section. It's that big piece covering the fan motor. The start of this thread shows a picture. Perhaps the big flap is jamed. I think it's due to the vacum hoses. Perhaps they aren't on enough and possible air leak. I would flush out the heater matrix just so you can tick that box even though you say you have warm pipes, coming down from the inspection aperture.

Last bit. The A/C control module, maybe not the correct name for it. Anyway mine doesn't function. LED doesn't illuminate. Getting power in, and get 5volts out from the white cables, when turning the rotar switch. Question, where can I get one of these? Was it used on other cars? (ie sensible price) Or is there a replacement? Or anyone know how to fix it? See images. Seems a part is broken away.

Hi Simon, Resending again the info you need. See images. At the back of the switch on each spade connector they have markings (letters). This is the correct connecting up, for off, click once=speed one, click twice=speed two, click thirdtime=speed three. H=ORANGE wire L=GREEN/grey stripe wire B=BLACK M=YELLOW C=GREY I also took my fan out and checked it on the bench. Worth doing, just two screws hold it in there, and unplug the two connector plugs. I carefully linked up to a 12v source (battery charger). Checked it turned freely. Good luck!! Now i put her back together...

All done. Yes indeed, them what lookes like fabric material covered pipes are the air/con system. Left them alone. Flushed out the matrix system. That pipe from the water pump is a little awkward to undo and you have to be careful unscrewing through the cam belt. The return is just to the right. I also flushed directly on the heater matrix. Let the water run for a minute or so, and did a couple of times, until water running clear. Then replaced the four jubilee clips with proper automotive types. All reconnected. Car took longer to heat up (normal). Then when up to temperature the pipes going to the matrix felt warm. Good sign. Later when I switched the interior fan on, nice warm air coming through. Tomorrow I re-flush the whole system again so to add proper coolent. Momentarilly has 100% water. So to sum up: If the fan is out. i) Check the fuse. ii) If continues to blow then it's the connections in the wrong order (pluged into the switch). iii) If still not working, it has to be the switch, or could be the relay or dodgy earth. For heat, iv) Just flush out the heater matrix. Should be fine after. Make sure set to Hot when doing this. Job done!!

Charles, Good point. Looking under the passenger side dash, there are the matrix pipes. They are coverred in what's best described as a tar like material. Looking closely I can see that someone at one point has been there with a screwdriver, and broken some of this away to get to the pipes for inspection. I can see a rusty fixing. I'm thinking more and more now that the heating system matrix is blocked. I'll take some pictures of what I'm explaining. Get there soon I think. This Forum is great stuff like this. Here are the pipes. At the bottom you can see where someone has been doing a bit of poking with a screwdriver, and broken away the tar like covering. So I think I'm getting warmer to the issue being the heater matrix system being blocked. My mate on his car fixed his over-heating problems by taking the radiator out and running some very aggressive acid into the radiator. I don't and hope I won't need to do that. My car is running okay concerning general running, and up to correct temperature Engine-wise'. It's just the heater, and lack of heat the issue. So what do I need to do, concerning just flushing the heater part of the system?

Was about to start a new thread, but seen this and the helpful images. Guess what no heat !!! Had no interior fan, but have fixed that. It was due to the fuse, but more importantly the connectors to the three speed selector switch not being correctly connected up. If not connected in the right way, fuse goes, no fan. Then you change the fuse. Goes again for a bit, then dies. Then the last owner must have given up, and that's how I bought her. So after checking all the wiring, the relay, having a cup of tea, and starting again, it works. I made a note of the correct configuration if anyone needs. So one down one to go. I want heat !!! Have re-connected a way-would vacum pipe. Little rat !!!. My car has a rotational flap linked to the main long flap for ram air ventilation. I have looked inside, and set to cold and hot. The mechanism moves, but no heat. I seem to be getting lots of movement. Maybe I take a photo max hot/max cold. See if someone can confirm enough movement. Blockage in the system? Car never over heats. Always been good like that. The A/C is dead I think too. The electronic board is receiving 12volts. Does this override the standard cold hot set up. I mean if the thing broke and it was set to mega cold requirement, does that mean it stays cold now always until the A/C board device get's fixed? Question: Why no heat, blockage in piping somewhere. What to do? Question: A/C board device. How to check working okay. The little red LED isn't working. Ideally I'd settle for bye-passing the A/C. Is there a way, a circuit? Can provide photos. Drove my mates S4 the other day. He's got heat. I need it too in my old Turbo Esprit 1984

Great, thanks Rich H for the tip with bit of cotton. Sort of thing I'd think of, only after :-) Molemot, I've sent you a private message. Might be 2 as the cat jumped up on the keyboard, while I was writing. I'll take you up on the lending of the kit. All on the private message I sent you. Lets have a chat. This forums great!!!! Cheers, Eddie

Thanks Buddsy (Scott), by the look of that photo of the engine you've been there. I've managed to get a quote of about £40-50 for the kit I need all in sent to me in France. I made contact with these people http://www.engineering-supplies.com/ I need to get the pitch for the bolt confirmed. Std given is 1.25, but might be 1.0mm. Do you know what the pitch is foe the torx head bolt (inside cam carriers) Also the length of the thread also decided. I'll do some dummy runs on a waste piece of plate. The job sounds relatively easy out on a work bench, just we'll be doing this with the engine in the car, so will have to be careful for the drilling and threading aspect. Also collect any swarf. Will keep you posted; Cheers.

Hi, Have had an oil leak (only slight), from one of the cam carriers. Oil (drips mostly) are leaking out from an area top cam carrier nearest when looking into the engine bay. Have tried to plug the leak by cleaning the engine and using various sealers on the outside. With all that heat and vibration I was really just kidding myself it might work. Well had to try i suppose. I'm not loosing loads of oil, but the sound of oil bubbling as it drips down onto the turbo manifold, and that nightmare worry that it might just catch fire one day, has made me decide to look at it and get it sorted. Surely it's just a case to nip up them torx bolts a little tighter (found inside), after the brass allen key style caps are removed, we thought (a mate). We did this, and the access isn't so easy, but we managed to get a torx socket all lined up for the nipping up tight action. No, the bolt turns freely. Oh dear and lots of other more naughty words this forum won't allow me to use!!! So it was carefully lifted out. There to our horror but expected a thin piece of aluminum, which looks like a spring in the thread of the torx bolt. So bugger no thread in the block for that bolt, and reason why the oil is leaking out. Someone at sometime has over tightened it. How to fix it !!!! ???Hellicoils my mate said, and reckons it can be done with the engine in situ. I've looked a little into these. Another mate said that some performance racing teams deliberately put Hellicoils in as they are that strong that the bolt head would probably shear before the thread gets buggered. We won't be getting carried away, just so the cam carrier sits down and the oil leak stops will do for me. So has anyone on here had the same problem, had the threads over tightened (no thread), and used hellicoils for this precise requirement (cam carrier zone)? Hellicoils can't be unwound due to their nature if they get misaligned (from what i've read). Looks like it's a one chance go at this, and I want to get all the knowledge together ready for the job using this great forum. What do I need (basic kit)? What suggestions if any? Cheers, Eddie

Hey Gouvnor, can I come too, errrrr, pretty please, buy you a beer!!! Lucky you

Good to see this post up and active. How about a list of people who come to the show, what cars they bring etc? Do a listing a bit like the Pistonheads forum for Le Mans. Like this: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=25&t=846529&mid=0&nmt=Le Mans Classic Mulsanne BBQ meet Friday afternoon People just add their cars, who come etc. I'll certainly be going. PS. Great refresh for the Lotus Forum site. Good job done :-)

Scot, okay sounds more interesting now if a special engine. Here I've added an image of the engine stamp. The VIN plate is also interesting, with a 'J', signifyling 'Rest of World'. The Esprit is LHD from original, so forget Domestic/Europe or North America, they are 'G' & 'H' . Where did it come from if Rest of the World (middle east market????) If South Africa or Aussie that would be a RHD surely. The owner passed away as I mentioned already, just like the vehicles history. Both unfortunate.

Andy, Interesting. Thanks for this info. Mechanic bloke will be made aware.

An S2 with what looks like a different engine from original. Engine stamp, and plate aren't the same numbers. Engine stamp is 11YR then underneath it's written DC 911 80 09 18714 Plate has the 907 code as expected. So 911 is special? I orderred a 2.2 top engine gasket kit from SJs. Car had some issue with the valves and has been fixed, now awaiting rebuild. Sadly the owner is not with us; Interested to know if this engine is special, or not. Before when the car was running it kept up with our Turbo Esprits, quite well, and easily out accelerated a mates S3 N/A. Is the engine special?

While replacing the slave cylinder on my mates Turbo Esprit, I had a closer look at his starter motor. Rubbed off the grime to reveal this Lucas stamp. See image. Still hoping someone can advise another more mass market car is was used on, rather than E-type Jags and XJ40, as some have explained. Plan would be to get one from a breakers yard. ANY IDEAS?

Look at this. Found it in my mates glove box. £1.75 back in the day, when a pint of beer would have been under a quid easy. Not sure if they still exist.

Hi. I saw your old post about this. Tapped in on google LUCAS 54292226 and your post came up. My mates is definately a Lucas Hi Torque of some design. Mine must be something else or a non Hi Torque one. I can't stand the re re re re re sound. Considering to buy a Hi Torque unit from AES for £180 all in. Funny how this post has turned into Internet spyware reports :-)

Both cars are here (mate away in Corsica). I'll open the boot and have a closer look, try to find some numbers or differences. The sound is very different betwenn my car and my mates. Night and day. I found this on You Tube of a bloke with his Porsche 911. Mine sounds like the first clip. My mates the second. Have a butchers here: It's a Hi-Torque for me!!! They are totally different starter motors. My mates is more compact and looks newer, and has LUCAS 54292226 stamped on the back (facing you when looking in from the back of the car). My starter motor is larger, painted black. Anyone know where a LUCAS 54292226 starter motor was used elsewhere?

So the beast I need is a 'Hi-Torque' starter motor. Maybe Lotus changed them just from April to June 1984, or my mates car at some point had a replacement in the form of this Hi Torque unit. I found the same company in the states too (thanks LOTUS4s), and a more local one in the UK. See link: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/837 £180 shipped to France. Thing is though maybe this starter was used on other more less elaborate vehicles. I've discovered this for other parts like slave cylinders. So what other vehicles use the same Hi-Torque starter motor as the Esprit, for more sensible money?

Hi, maybe it's just me being fussy. I have an 84 (April) Turbo Esprit. My mate has an 84 (June) Turbo Esprit. On starting my car it sounds like an old run of the mill starter motor. What does a an old run of the mill starter motor sound like, I hear you say. Well that old kind of re re re re re sound. On my mates car it's that luxury car sound. Sounds very electronic. It appears to me they are not the same starter motor. Couple of mates with there Esprits both newer 85 & 87 (HC), have this same more luxury car sound, not like mine. So I need the same sound. Where can I get one? Surely they were used on other cars, so the price will be more competitive.

What timing !!! Little project. I took the car out for run. Fast and taking the corners as normal. Nothing moved :-) Got a local show to attend in 2 wks. Will all be smoothed off and painted up nice. See some videos here: http://www.youtube.c...u/2/CQ6-n6sokYs

Here see the ducting on my mates car. It looks pucker, but also stronger than mine. Maybe at some point his ducting was changed.

This is great lads !!! This is what the forums all about. Any photos of these alternative ducting ideas? If it looks in keeping with the car I might go for it. Still would prefer a 85mm / 60mm conical tube though, about 500mm long. Tomorrow I'll take some pictures of my mates Turbo Esprit and his ducting that looks newer, and far stronger. My tired piece of kit looks original, and showing it's age at 26yrs old.