eddie111S

I just did a search now. That's bloody terrible news of him passing away. I thought I'd write this little story here, for what its worth. Hope it puts a smile on the face of all the people who knew John Douglas... I met him way back in 2010 if memory serves me right. He helped sort out a leak on the top part of the engine of my then 1983 Turbo Esprit. I later visited him at his place near to Bourges, when I lived in France. He had his Turbo Esprit, that he was always working on, constantly getting the engine out for mods or fixing things. He had a Devil single seater kit car on the go to, with Audi V8 lump to go in. I wonder if he ever finished it? He was a fantastic fella. Great stories about his life in the RAF. He said he joined up wearing a bomber jacket and driving an MG TC. Bloke on the entrance to RAF Cranwell said I think you're 20yrs too late mate...!!!. Then how as he put it 'he slept under the wing' flying a plane to Le Mans on a visit to the 24hrs. Then the funny stories of his time working for the UK border force. How was it, the story he gave.... 'A runt of a fella came through immigration, scruffy looking type with this blonde party. Good looking she was with a lot of front on her'.... Then he laughed and explained it was later known to be Kid Rock and Pamela Anderson..... I know he had some health issues and he would laugh it off saying he had more gamma rays put on him than the hulk because of cancer issues. I presume that was the reason of his passing.... I spare a little thought for you John.....

Whats the latest status on this? Did the engine ever go back in?

Hi Guys. I'm going to attempt to do this at the weekend. I read the whole feed about cleaning all and the roll pins correct orientation. Only thing, I don't have the insertion tool mind. Is that a big deal? Anyone know the depth of each side for the seals?

I did this mod this morning. It works very well. If you hold back the stem and flick the lights they stay up. I really recommend this modification. It always baffled me that when you flash someone to say thanks or give them right of way the lights stay up for ages (it feels like ages). Only point I want to make here is the last photo which in my opinion shows the wrong position to make the install. On my car it is the actual green relay in the photo that needs to be removed and replaced with this modified ISO Type B relay. The photo shows the green relay still installed and the other next to it having the mod. That position in my car is for the electric window voltage check relay.

Started making my own engine cover since the engine is different. Lots of calculations. It will be in keeping with the original engine cover. It will include 2 fans to get that heat out. Photos so far. I'll have it linked to the thermostat switch plus on / off switch if I need to independently switch on.

Its a 3.0 ltre V6 from a Jaguar S-type. It has a Ford Maverick 3.0 litre inlet manifold and cover with modification re L O T U S logo. Hi. They are normal struts. No locking is needed. The price of 31.70€ is for the pair too. On opening the tail gate you need to move it up a little, but it stays there. Its so cool believe me. I can see everything now. Also added bonus, I don't bash my head on the rear wing no more 😃

Ok guys, its done, and I'm really pleased with the result. My tail gate opens right up. Now so easy to get in and work/inspect in the engine bay. The days of the broom handle are well and truly over. After lots of research and calculating I went for a slightly different strut from the original manufacturer STABILUS. Rated at 500N each with a length center to center of 525mm. Also whats great is they are parts used on the Skoda Favorit. So acceptably cheap. I paid 31.70€ delivered. The magic number is 083852. Most important was to strengthen the tail gate. First thing was to repair the cracked tailgate each side with fiberglass compound. Its like P38 filler but has fiberglass mixed in. Super strong once cured. Then i used aluminum profile 20mm x 30mm, which I cut and filed to fit the contour. They slot in sandwiched behind the brackets. The whole profile was then neatly rivited to the tailgate. It goes from almost the whole length of the tailgate, on the flat area. Then I sprayed up the profile. Its very tidy... See photos. I thoroughly recommend this mod. A very necessary mod if you have the big V8 spoiler fitted. Cheers.

More thoughts on this. I wrote to SGS, but the bloke didn't really understand. Only way is to do it myself to be sure of what I want. I will measure the moving mass of the tail gate and convert to Nm force. I will buy one of them devices for measuring heavy luggage. Put it around the rear wing and lift up the tail gate gently to get a measurement. Then do some sums. Then search for a pair of struts that give that force. The strut needs to have maximum extension of 520mm. That will hold up the tail gate making access much more open. That's the opening I have currently with the broom handle and disconnection the small locking strut on the left side. I will add strengthening with aluminum L brackets left and right that run down each side. I will also add triangle metal plates for the ball part that's on the tailgate. Also where the other end connects on the car might reinforce but that looks strong enough. My tailgate already has cracks, probably where before when locked the previous owner/garage mechanic tried to close, without lifting up first. I'll repair with fiberglass for sure. I'm surprised that no one hasn't posted this before. My aim is that on flipping the catch the tailgate will lift up and open right up. I'll keep you posted. The constant flicking off the small strut each time with a screw driver then propping up with a broom handle to do anything at the back is starting to bore me a bit.....

Haven't been driving the car much, but will concentrate my search on the control unit. It makes a noise. I just need to trace back what its doing, if its moving a flap. I've actually got some slight heat.

Nice and easy question. On my car on the tail gate or trunk I have on the right side a long strut and on the left side a short strut. The short strut locks the tail gate up, but its dreadfully low. I have the massive spoiler on the back. Doing a lot of work on car right now in the engine bay. Each time I have to pop out the left strut and slot in my broom handle. Annoying. I want to do a mod to have powerful struts to keep the tailgate up in the air (same height as for maximum length of the right strut lets say). If that means strengthening the tailgate to take the force/weight, so be it. Would another strut like the RH strut fitted on the LH side do? Or do I need more power struts x 2 (length as per the RH side strut)?

I need help on this issue. Some background notes first. My car a GT3 (in V8 lively) has had the engine changed (no longer the original). I have the last dash assembly. I can hear the mechanical device make a noise when I adjust from cold to hot (wheely dial control). I can hear the mechanical device make a noise when I change the air flow (wheely dial control). I can feel heat on main pipes in and out into the heater matrix (looking up 'performing the Lotus position'). The vac servo in the back rumbles a bit then shuts off. I have checked the vac pipes found around by the right fuel tank area. One pipe which goes to the front of the car is connected to a module screwed into this right side quarter. This module has no plug plugged into it as this is still on the original loom on the original engine, which is out of the car. There is also another module a little bit forward close to the location of the original ECU. This one currently has no vac pipes connected to it. The interior fan had to have a new direct live added, so to function because of the original loom on the engine removed with it.. So any thoughts? I need heat. I guess the flaps won't change due to no vacuum: So its locked in cool setting. Is that a correct assumption? Any ideas?

Is Miles Wilkins still going? I passed by his place a couple of weeks back in Yapton. It was a Sunday morning so obviously closed. Place had a lot of fencing up and a big sign 'FOR DEVELOPMENT'. Is he expanding or a take over? Hope the fellas still going. Lovely chap. Always has a story to tell.

Hey March, thanks a bundle, for stating the obvious that kind of escaped me. I got to the VDO page as you suggested. Various downloads with wiring diagrams. Gonna check more in detail and give it another shot. Cheers, https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters/by-series/vision-black/vision-black-8-000-rpm-4-tachometer-12v.html https://www.vdo-gauges.com/instruments-displays-and-clusters/by-series/vision-black/speedometer/vision-black-220mph-4-electronic-speedometer-with-autocalibration-12v.html

Hi. My 1998 GT3 dressed up in a V8 clothing from original now has the Jag 3.0 litre V6 engine up and running. Some slight dynamic tuning with the mega squirt to finish. Now my question is for the Speedo and the Tacho (rev counter). Both me and my mate Nigel can't get either to work. Even with Tacho fix gizmo. On this car it has a sensor on the rear wheel not the mechanical cable on the gear box. Need wiring diagram for the functionality of the late 1998-2004 Esprit for Speedo & Tachometer. Cheers

Hey Punky, My cars almost done now, after 2.5yrs off the road. Need your set up parameters for Megasquirt. Nigel & I would like to come and visit you after Christmas if possible. I PM'ed you. Almost there with the S type 3litre engine....

Hi Punky, My plan is to do the same. Nigels gonna do the work. I'm good friends with him, and via this forum. My Esprit's engine decided to die couple of months ago. I will have the engine rebuilt but won't have it installed. Just gonna be stressing doing high speed on the autobahn. 3.0litre Durratec probably with ST220 engine is the way to go. Did you get my PM? Just wanna rattle your brain before I fully into selecting the right engine/car. Cheers, Eddie

Over in the UK now for Christmas. I have the 6422 module, immobiliser, key fob and touch key. Portsmouth and London area. Anyone available to check it out? Seen a company called Cobratech in Edgeware. Will contact them on the 27th. Fixing or replacing the alternator also on the job to do list. That will be the first job on returning to France along with new cam belt. She goes since bypassing the immobiliser. Minimum is to hot wire the horn, then new MOT,and get the alarm sorted or removed/replaced. Thinking to leave the car with Pete at PNM and sort it.

Bibs, yeah perhaps. Was hoping someone might PM me though. Hey anyone got plans how to break into the Bank of England? sorry.. Got an alternator to fix or replace on this car too. Also the passenger side door mirror is broken. Got a cheap replacement CX one for 25€ though. Car will be going soon though, I've promised myself that.

Okay, looking at the Cobra 6422 alarm module that is found on post 98 cars behind the glove box, there are three main connectors, which slot into sockets marked J03, J02 & J01. Basically I require a wiring diagram, how to hot wire these connectors, thereby bypassing the main module.

43 views, but no one suggesting a solution. The main module and immobiliser is now with a friend at 'Le Hello', Le Mans. They are Cobra specialists. Wait and see if it can be fixed. Ideally though I'd like to get shot of the alarm system. Just need to know what J03 J02 & J01 are and how they can connect together effectively bypassing the module.

Searching for a solution on the Cobra 6422 master control unit. Going to get mine checked over. Alternatively is there a wiring diagram showing how I can connect up the plugs, with the 6422 removed. The J03, J02 & J01 connections. I've bypassed the immobiliser for fuel pump and starter (outer pins).

Hi, yeah it was the throttle body butterflies. Cleaned them up. The two most forward were the worst. The car has been sat in my mates car body shop for nearly 2yrs, due to it not going. Summer was very hot this year and with all the dust and shit in the air no wonder. I bought some special throttle body cleaner,and used loads of WD40. The cold weather wasn't very helpful. I freed off the butterflies. I rebuilt the Plem cover, but used Locktite instant gasket. Modern technology. I used this on my Turbo Esprit on the cam carrier covers. Never leaked. Forget cardboard as a sealer. This part is now sorted. She runs really smooth. I have suspect damage to the Cobra 6422 command module, and its probably not sending the right signal to the immobiliser. Therefore I've hot wired the outer pairs of pins for fuel pump and starter motor. I'm gonna get the alarm module checked out, as I have no horn, electric windows or mirrors. Need to check all the relays are the correct type and are in the right location too. I've got battery drain. Anyone with a unmolested GT3 and could send me photos of the front and rear relay stations, that would be a big help. I've got access to the schematics. Running out of time to bring the car back to UK for Christmas and New Year.

Nice picture. Getting to the bottom of my non starting Esprit. Okay so its not the ECU. Have bypassed the immobiliser, and consider the alarm module got damaged when the previous owner connected up the battery the wrong way round. My car starts now, but I'm wondering if before I bought it the relays have been swapped round before (last bloke trying to find the issue). My GT3 relay station looks like this, yet the service book, schematics say all these relays from 18-25 are the same, a Relay Double contact 2 x 15Amp, ref B082M6182F. Yet the grey Bosch type and the brown Siemens aren't the same. Can someone help? Also in the front the a relay remains warm, and I have battery drain. Great if someone can take a photo of their GT3 front relay station. cheers

So have bypassed the immobiliser. She starts but revs up stupid !!! Its not a leak on the T piece for the dump valve like I thought earlier. The accelerator cable isn't jammed, nor is the pedal. The part where the cable attaches to on the engine, to operate the butterfly in the inlet manifold seems jammed. The car has been laid up for over 2yrs. Would it be old petrol sticking the butterfly open to a certain position? Any suggestions? I'm thinking a strip down and WD40 then gently manually twisting by hand. Would then a spring pull back the cable and butterfly shuts?

Hi, yeah she runs now... It was the blasted Cobra 6422 immobiliser, so it would seem. This car was found by me 3yrs ago for a mate. He then sold it on very quick, because he was offered double money for it. After the new owners (idiots) had poured champagne over it and renamed the car MAX, the car was laid up for well over a year. The guy lost his licence drinking and driving. Then the plonker wired the battery up the wrong way round. I mentioned this on one of my very old posts to look for a solution. The car stayed laid up in my mates garage for another year. She wasn't fixed. I decided to buy the car, because of many reasons, even though I knew it wasn't a runner. Everyone was saying ECU/ECM has been fried. So after taking the car to bits, consulting mates like Pete Musgrove, Roy, and Nigel, lots of fiddling the issue is the Cobra 6422 immobiliser it would seem. Did the manual code check with hair pin earlier. Code 12 comes up, and nothing else, so that would suggest ECU/ECM is healthy. Read all about bypassing the immobiliser with two loop wires. So did that. She runs. Revved up really high, so I switched off. That would be the leaky T piece on the dump valve, just like when I brought the car over to France. So plenty to sort out tomorrow, but looks like I'm there. PS. This car is a GT3 1998 car with the later dash, but in a V8 kit, ordered that way from new, so pretty unique. Best of both worlds. Lamb in a wolfs clothing, but a mighty scary lamb at that.