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I'm caught by Murphy's law


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  • Gold FFM

this weekend was filled with joy of driving, some fun with friends and 'cultural side seeing'. But after 814km there was that typical 'plop and rattle':

http://www.imagenetz.de/f4b717a25/BILD0262.JPG.html http://www.imagenetz.de/f4b717a25/BILD0262.JPG.html

I was just to lazy, let it stay until next month and an other month. Have totally ignored that there is now 111019km on the counter !! As always: Who has not enough work can bring himself into big trouble... .

It looks as if the 60th celebration is transformed into an "parts pic-up" now. :)

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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I feel your pain. Last August on the way up to Colorado for the national Lotus Owners Gathering (LOG 26), I had the same unpleasantness occur on a remote part of the New Mexico interstate. The vacuum pump belt decided to let go, wrap itself under the cam belt and the rest is history.

In the hurry to have other tasks taken care of before the event, a ridiculous work load, home repair projects , and a million other excuses, I forgot to replace the two minimal cost belts.

8 months later the car is back together and running like a champ with new belts all around. Lesson learned.

By the way, could I interest you in a new manifold? ;-)

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  • Gold FFM

the 'pain' is relative -as it was my fault. In order to the rebuild history of that engine in first owners hands, it is now more than 11000km over the recommended distance. And as mentioned in the other treat, i have noticed some serious wear on the toothed belt wheels. there was an sign of trouble before -but what should i say, its my style of risky life .

The bad taste is only that i had an new set of belts an pulleys at home . It was just planned to do it as an normal belt-job in the end of the year. Anyway, i have other priority's (the studies, exams and written test forms ..) to attend !

@ Al: what do you mean with 'new manifold' why should i use an new ?? -my plan is just to replace all old hydraulic tappets (as those have knocked several minutes after start-up over the last years) , replace all valves and valve guides (if necessary) in LH bank -and i hope that there is not to much damage on the LH pistons , and that the liners the basic head and the rods don't have damages... . Material for the rework of one head is maximum that i can pay for now...

Sounds stupid-OK, but for an real upgrade with race pistons/rods an all that stuff what the others do there is no money left in the next two years.

@Peter, yes that's what i expect -as i have worked on several Diesel [Truck] engines in my past job. And as anybody knows those engines have an higher compression with short distance between piston an valves, and the smaller capacity [2.8l] 'delivery-van' engines even don't have hydraulic tappets. If one of those engines had an belt/valve drive fault there was always an serious problem to fix!

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Hi Gunter,

Sorry to hear about this. It's just happened to a friend of mine about 2 weeks ago. the cam wheels and idler wheel are all worn so I've just bought him these off Ebay along with idler bearing and other stuff. I think 4 inlet and 2 exhaust valves were bent along with the associated guides.

Iam planning to have my cambelts done ASAP.

Dave Walters

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  • Gold FFM

what i can say for sure is: An Lotus V8 can lose his first belts at 5k or 10k or in my case with around 38000 km if the intermediate belt drive lose the central screw. And if that is fixed the next belts can last up to 71000km more :rant:

@Dave: yeahh, ASAP that's the point... .

The problem is not the time that is necessary for that, as i have planned to pull the engine out for other points . But the money was planned for those other fix ups, ...there is so much to watch out. Heat-shields, several treat inserts for the engine, an gearbox upgrade an LSD and other stuff. But now it is only important that the engine does run again.

With a bit luck i have the space and time to pull the engine out of the engine bay and start to dismantle it. Than i can buy parts on the 'Hethel-Holiday' week. *s_pri* is also interested to pic up some parts instead of an simple entertainment trip...

Edited by G

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Hi Gunter,

Sorry to hear about your engine, puts what needs doing on mine into perspective, must get the smoking turbo off and replace the belts as the history on the car is vague regarding their life!!

We learn from our mistakes. :sofa:

Nellie

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  • Gold FFM

the 'official' story from the used car dealer is that my engine had an typical belt fault [intermediate drive srew] with around 38-40k km in first owners hand. But what i can't say for sure is that all related parts where replaced (as documented in the bill) .

Anyway, the toothed belt pulleys are all worn, especially on that LH side that is split now. I guess that the higher wear of that 'pitting' on the surface had killed that belt . 71000km (or more, who knows...) with one belt set is much in relation to the recommended distance. I think 90.000km would be better , but that is possible only with toothed belt pulleys in perfect condition (Lotus tested an V8 on long distance... !?)

Ask Mike Sekinger about that, he told me in the other treat that he has also noticed that type of wear on one of the engines he rebuilds actually.

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

I think all of you can image in what type of "suboptimal" condition i have to fight... (watch those shelves on the ground). It was impossible to move the crane with the complete engine-gearbox unit on the concrete stones . It means one whole day for dismantle of all pipes an hoses, rusted screws and that stuff. Today it was mostly to find the right way to lift it up (i fabricated my engine lift points [as those are not fitted on my engine]

BILD0264.JPG

I 'lost' the older oil-cooler pipe, one of the air condition pipes from the right engine bay, both engine mounts and several other rusted/weared parts... . As i said earlier: it was planned to lift the engine out -OK, not under that circumstances :)

BILD0265.JPG

The next pictures are for those of you who want to see how an "avers type of gearshift system" looks -or what it causes. In other words what types of wear can cause the typical problems with interrupted clutch engagement: as some know, my clutch/gearbox assembly is an combination of parts from two other V8-cars. The clutch spline is still the one with the steps on it (from the season i had the "twist/spinning friction-plate fault") . The other shows an weared release bearing -with an big step on the fork area. Bud as it has two sections, i can 're-use' the other side... .

BILD0269.JPG

BILD0271.JPG

Kylie: you can inspect your belts with your knees in the luggage compartment. Or if it is not fitted- stay above the gearbox. Then undo the auxiliary drive belt+pulleys, and remove the RH/LH belt cover.

The (really heavy !!) tailgate can be lifted up if you remove the roof and the gas pressure springs. I tied the tailgate with an rope onto the roof construction of the carport... . But it is not generally necessary to lift the tailgate that high (90

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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PS: (for insiders) "Wenn's ein Gaul w

Ciao,

JB

'88 Excel SE - monaco white

'99 Elise 111 - azure blue �

'87 TurboEsprit - calypso red

'02 BMW 325ci convertible - diamond black

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http://excelregister.lotusexcel.de

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  • Gold FFM

next pictures:

-in relation to the note about the exhaust crack lines and heat shields (in other treats)

BILD0278.JPGBILD0280.JPGBILD0282.JPG

-and some for the mentioned 'pitting'

BILD0272.JPG

BILD0275.JPG

PS. especially for my German friends: no, there is nothing to worry about - 'Mitleid' is not the one that i deserve. You know that i like to look inside of every machinery. OK-That special situation is not the perfect cause ....

By the way: Does anyone know how long the primary drive (the chain system) lasts [under normal conditions] ? There was noting about that part-section in the former rebuild documentary/rebuild bill.

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

no worrys :) -every man needs an project for the winter season

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

the only question is should i just 'restore' the failed section with stock parts -or do an complete rebuild/type 918 engine-upgrade with the specialised types of parts (as seen in the LEF projects section) !?

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

What type of socked do i need for the cylinder head screw, it looks as if it is an *Torx*-type, bud a bit conical on top !?

Other question: i never noticed an cooling system leak/water loss into the sump. The re-build history/bill from the middle of 2001 shows an 'liner pull'+'reseal' during the engine rebuild [it was an primary belt drive/idler pulley fault]. Done by an former major Lotus / Luxury car dealer in Germany. Can i expect that the right sealin compound was used !? Otherwise it would meant an complete engine rebuild-just to get sure there comes never an fault like the liner /water loss problem. I planned to let the RH head stay on the block !

pictures titled: *Field Operation Services*, *the beginning*, *the end* .*LH-belt*,*Exhaust .8 bend*,*Inlet .7 bend*,

note: the RH belt shows some serious wear between the teeth's section, bud the cam belt-pulley shows only light damage. The other side shows in opposite to that -serious wear on the belt pulley, bud much rubber between the belt teeth's !? just curious ....

BILD0284.JPGBILD0285.JPGBILD0286.JPGBILD0288.JPGBILD0289.JPGBILD0290.JPG

next on the list is an compression check, just to be sure that the others have no problems

*internal note: as this seems to be an longer 'project' -please, can an mod move it to the "projects&restoration" if necessary

Edited by G

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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  • Gold FFM

here is an picture of the twin plate clutch.BILD0295.JPG If you look closer than you can see that the tooth profile is changed , or in other words it has an 'orientation'. In order to what i have learned in the university Renault did designed an misconception. That type of profile is not recommended for an sliding & twist motion. Bud the 'sliding' (for the clutch engagement, for example) means there must be some 'free play'. That on the other hand produced (together with the twist/turn from the rotating crankshaft) an steady wear on the shoulder.

I hope that after the engine "rebuild" there is enough money left for an spline change/upgrade to an other profile (probably Ford !?)

Ohh, and yes -i noticed the 'across orientation' -and that "1=4 /4=1" for the ignition coils.... :)

BILD0298.JPG

It's always good to have an documentation of such remarkable points :(

Edited by G

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to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

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Just now read through your thread, Gunter. Arrrgggghhhh! Maximum bummer! Every Esprit owner's worst nightmare. Forced myself to click on each of your pics, and am now a "true believer" (as if I wasn't already) in keeping up on the cam belt(s) change interval--I had joked in a previous post about changing them every week, just to be on the safe side, but am now wondering if that might not have some merit! Scary stuff. Why couldn't Lotus have used chains on ALL the valvetrain instead of just the primary drive? Or am I being naive? My trusty 535i has [original owner] 206,500 miles on it, and other than the (now replaced) chain GUIDE, that part of the system has been trouble free (touch wood?).

Best of luck in getting back on the road with minimum delay. :(

John

Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose.

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  • Gold FFM

71000km (or more, who knows it.. don't trust old bills :cool: ) with one belt-set was just an 'long distance durability test run' :(

OK, the belts are a bit small -compared with our belts in the commercial diesel 'light truck' class. But i bet if the 'pitting' on the pulleys would not be there they can last longer... .

With a bit luck , and the right tool i can release the headscrews and lift the head. As far as it looks today there is two complete inlet and two complete exhaust valve sets that i need. I know an local company/engine-workshop who can refit an cut the new valve seats an do the other head work (valve guides etc.).

And if the dimensions from camshaft journal diameter and bore is still in good state it could get a lot cheaper. I hope i can reuse the head !!!

I will replace the hydraulic tappets anyway, so some work on the heads was already planned before... .

If the piston/liner assembly had got damage than it is definitive an money problem !

Update: the compression check-up does not work. Not enough power to idle, (bud i can turn the engine an complete revolution by hand). Have no tools for an leak test -so i hope the others are in an good shape.

latest news: head is down, i can see possibly one broken valve guide, four valves bend , light damage in the piston crown of two pistons. Parts of rusty jelly stuff (that can only be the liner sealant -covered in rusty water from the cheap produced radiator in front of the car !?)

One cylinder does have some sort of combustion problem (leaking injector or something else -abnormal carbon deposits, looks like an diesel engine)

more pictures as soon as the camera want to work again :)

Edited by G

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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  • Gold FFM
BILD0302.JPGBILD0303.JPGBILD0304.JPGBILD0306.JPGBILD0307.JPGBILD0310.JPG

*********************************************************************

to name the things if I see them, that's what I call integrity..

*********************************************************************

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