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Seperating the gearbox from engine problems!


wayneb911

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Okay so i have unbolted the gearbox from the engine and pulled the box away but had to stop as the main shaft is still attached to the engine! What do i do. Can i pull the gearbox away and re insert the shaft after? Should this come away or not. I have never taken a box out and had this happen so im a bit miffed.

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HI Wayne,

the input shaft must be attached to the gearbox, not at the cranshaft, so you can take out the box if there are not any damage in the crankshaft/mainshaft splines connection.

There is a bearing in the crankshaft bore, maybe the shaft is blocked inside due to rust/damage so be careful to not damage the crank when pulling out.

Once dismanled, check carefully the splines and replace bearing and nylotron washer in the end of the input shaft.

Keep us posted.

Ciao

Giorgio

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Hi Wayne

The shaft you are referring to is the input shaft, which is splined into the mainshaft and secured by a circlip (or not in your case...). If you have room, just continue to remove gearbox as normal.

NB the input shaft is spring loaded (where it joins the mainshaft), so you should also recover a spring and the missing circlip.

As Giorgio then says, check pilot bush and clutch splines for damage

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Wayne,

I have a brand new bush for inserting in the crankshaft and you are welcome to it.

I got it just in case and found that the one in the car was perfect so didn't fit it.

PM me your address and I'll send it

John

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So am i right that i can continue to remove the gearbox and then take the shaft off after?.

Engine and bo are out so this will be easier

Thanks everyone

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Yep, just continue. The problem has already occured, so you need to dismantle to investigate. You wont do any further damage (if indeed there is any damage already, it may simply be that the circlip/snapring is missing or became dislodged)

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Thanks everyone. I will try and remove it tomorrow if i get the chance. Got the day off as its my little ones third birthday so may get a chance when she has a nap!

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Okay so i have split the gearbox from the engine. The shaft i managed to pull free by hand. All appears okay. So now whats the next step in refitting the shaft and also the outer part of the shaft that has the bearing on has also come out so can that be pushed back in. I presume best to replace the bearing also and of course a new clutch. So can the flywheel be cleaned up and whats the best way to do it. Also i will need to remove the flywheel to clean behind so is this a case of unbolting it and pulling it out the way the reversal to refit?

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The big hammer works every time :lol:

I would defo advise you replace the spigot bearing while it is in bits, but also don't forget the Nylotron washer, it is only a tenner, but a disaster if it falls to bits as you'll destroy your crank.

I have got a nearly new (<5K miles) clutch kit (Pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing) left over from the conversion on the mutant, bung me a PM if you are interested in it for your gold car.

Hilly

1981 S3 4.2 V8 6 speed (The Mutant)

Mutant V8 Conversion Thread

Knowledge is power .................... apparently.

 

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Wayne

The clutch release bearing also includes the plain hollow shaft that pushes into the bellhousing, so thats all perfectly normal.

The problem you have is that you would need to remove the bellhousing (and driveshaft castings) to correctly fit the input shaft to the mainshaft (the snapring I have previously mentioned). This doesn't sound a very attractive proposition, but I think you need to find the old snapring (and spring) otherwise there is a potential risk to your very precious Crown Wheel.

On the plus side, there are no special tools required to set up the differential, apart from a spring balance and a dial gauge. Its also worth replacing the (inexpensive, easily available) diff carrier bearings as the original ones can suffer from premature wear.

I personally wouldn't remove the flywheel unless you want it refaced or plan to replace the crank seal.

Steve

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......replacing the (inexpensive, easily available) diff carrier bearings

replacing the diff bearings involve that you need to re-set the backlash of the crownwheel & pinion.

With new bearings you will have a different Pre-load so setting this, requires new washers & shims, therefore once done, you need to keep the total quote of the washers swapping from one side to the other the ammout required, depends of the measurements.

So, you need get a lot of shims & washers to do the job properly, not a difficoult task, just time consuming.

Ciao

Giorgio

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So if i unbolt the bellhousing to find this clip can i not simply resecure the shaft with a new one and pop it back tongether? Will bits all fly over the place when i seperate the bell housing? Take it oil needs to be drained first as well.

I may leav this job for now and concentrate on the engine. I know engines better than gearboxes!

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No bits will fly over if you remove the bellhousing, but if you remove also the driveshaft housing, yes the CWP will fall out like the washers & shim in the bearings housing.

Better is to remove the Bellhousing with the gearbox in vertical position....

In any case, take notes, pics and don't mix any parts.

Ciao

Giorgio

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I adjusted the pre-load by making a selection of driveshaft housing gaskets from various thickness of gasket paper (available in .002 increments.). The CWP lash was then adjusted by swaping the gaskets from one side to another. I ended up using a facefit sealant on one side and a single gasket on the other. Lash & Preload, in tolerance, for pennies, with parts easily available.

NB Thats the shabbiest release beariing I've ever seen! Hope its OK cos theyr'e silly money.

cheers Steve

Thinking about this, the input shaft runs through a tube (not the clutch release bearing tube) so it would not be possible for either the snapring or the spring to drop into the diff. I would therefore stand the gearbox on the bellhousing end and tap it on the floor. Hopefully the 'missing' parts will fall out. As long as you can refit the spring OK (straigtened out coathanger....) you could install the input shaft with no disassembly or snapring. (The snapring is not doing anything in service as the input shaft is springloaded to thrust against the nylatron washer....

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so i need to refit the input shaft to the gearbox. Can i just push this back in?? I have tried to push it back in and it doesnt seem to stay in place. Even feels springy when i push against it? When pushed back in the hole it is very loose so i am guessing that it is not properly in? Maybe something is in engaged inside??

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