910Esprit

Maybe worth also mentioning that the left/right hand seats are identical

Those wires are the ignition feeds for the ignition module, so any/all of them could cause the issue you describe. The red wire and the earth lead will be the rev counter feed. You could 'de-pin' the connector and shorten and resolder them all. or you could replace them all individually with bullet connectors or whatever. (but that's not what I'd do!)

Makes you wonder about his mental arithmetic capabilities - I'll be expecting Ash Regan to be adding her entry to this topic anytime now

Have you noticed an uptick in traffic cars recently? - I was 'busted' going through Lythe a couple of weeks ago - Until that point our glorious NY roads have been free from any such 'issues'.

I have no personal interest or beef with electric cars, but the Betamax analogy is flawed! VHS won the war, but Betamax was almost certainly superior to VHS in most aspects apart from price. (The family business sold video recorders)

Think its a wise move going with the later turbo. The external wastegate runs much closer to the manifold than is recommended by the manufacturer on the G version NB - Did get your water pipes from SJ? I've just got round to fitting the large one with the temperature sender. The old sender is 1/8NPT, but the replacement pipe seems to be drilled for a G1/8 BSP sender, which seems a bit odd...

Understood! So that sounds as though the servo is working, but something else is causing you a problem, such as pushrod adjustment, or maybe something odd like a brake hose is ballooning under pressure (not that I've ever seen that)

Well that strongly suggests its a servo issue. When you say 'no pedal' do you mean the pedal goes to the floor, but the brakes are generally still operative. I would check if the adjustment of the master cylinder to servo pushrod is simply out of whack.

The word 'Society' is not often heard these days.

If the hardline is in good order I'd definitely retain that. After all there is just another 'plastic' hose inside a braided outer. FWIW I still have 40 y/o 'red' hose that has never caused me an issue (maybe its gone hard with age!)

Just looking on gov website - circa 1000 have had citizenship revoked over last 12 years or so - but the website also states that the government does not record successful appeals!! How odd....

That gunk would clearly be a disaster in waiting - Be really interesting to understand the cause - such as a mixture of incompatible coolants or maybe some 'radweld' type stuff or something else...

Just forget about it and put it back on the road. Could well recover after some regular use and low compression is not risking engine failure.

Very disconcerting when the input shaft flops around! but I don't actually recall anyone on this forum reporting that the splines have completely failed. I assumed you had sourced a good 2nd hand primary shaft. You must have sunk some serious money into that transmission if you are also using a reverse CWP!

Unusual for the BBC not to bury the facts... "The suspect in an alkali attack in south London was convicted of a sex offence in 2018 and was later granted asylum."

Poor wallet... I see you are fitting a spacer behind the bearing. belt & braces.

Well I guess it will run better when you sort the timing out. NB - As I'm sure you will be aware, you are missing your earth strap from the tensioner, which protects the bearing from static discharge & erosion (not that I've ever actually see that occur)

I measured the spring pressure exerted on the input shaft and from memory it was around 10kg under compression, seemingly nowhere near enough to press the bearing out of position. My Nylatron bearing also shows witness marks of the input shaft shoulder, so I definitely get some contact. What I have also noticed is that the very flimsy circlip seems to get eaten away by a combination of rust and fretting, so should also be treated as a service item over high miles/time. Be interesting if someone measured the relative clearance of the circlip to the input shaft shoulder and the Nylatron bearing and its respective shoulder using plastigauge or similar. How did you detect there was a problem? NB - If you get stuck for an OEM Citroen circlip, I've got plenty spare.

From the article "This is his first offence for such a serious matter." "There were long periods where Miller lived his life and did not cause any harm. I suspect you could put a different spin on those quotes...

Ah-ha - There's your problem

I currently use Mobil SHC 75w90

What's the problem? If the constituency don't vote for her, she wont get elected. And you will actually have an opportunity to 'boot out' the Tories before the next election. It will be really interesting to see how Reform UK do in that particular By-election

From Hyundai by all accounts! - Validated by more than one customer. As it exceeds the original price of the vehicle, it suggests they don't want them repaired

There's a lot of coverage at the moment of people being quoted $60,000 dollars to replace possibly (possibly not) damaged Hyundai Ioniq batteries - Sort of suggests that the manufacturer has not really bought into EVs either. No such thing as bad publicity?

If you are a man of means, then I'd just buy a new one and be done with it.... However, if you are a man of more modest means (such as me) I'd get it reground. It also depends how handy you are with spanners. I could swap out a flywheel in a day at zero cost - that makes it worthwhile to try a re-grind first. Conversely, if you are paying labour costs, then again a new item may be preferable