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S2 Stalling!


GBreadner

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I'm loving the experience of owning my S2 JPS but one thing is troubling me and in a way spoiling the whole joy of it. Pulling up to a junction or even mid gear change the engine dies and thats it just will not

restart. Using standard procedure of leaving for 15 minutes it will then it fires up OK. Doesn't sound or feel at all lumpy when driving it however.

So any advise please. Is it as simple as increasing idle revs or something more fundamental. All help and advise gratefully received. Gary

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Does it idle smooth once it's restarted ?. If it doesn't then perhaps it's as simple as turning in the idle screw a few turns.

Do you think it's flooding which is resulting in the stall?

If so ...

Check the choke is closing/closed all the way on both carbs

Check that the floats in the carbs are correctly set.

Maybe a blocked idle jet(s).

Have the carbs been recently balanced/tuned?

Fuel pressure maybe a possibility but you would experience issues when driving if that was a problem, so most likely not that.

Do you have Des Hammill's book on 'How to Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE & DHLA Carburettors', if not get a copy. It will tell you all you need to know about your carbs.

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Gavin

Edited by GavinT
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What carbs are on this car? (don't see where you are from) I know the best thing I ever did for my Federal JPS was to dump the Strombergs for Dellortos for a variety of reasons.

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If the engine just dies without any previous symptoms...coughing, power loss, spluttering, so forth...then it could be ignition and not carburettion. The old adage has it that all petrol engine problems are ignition...unless it is obviously the fuel system...when the problem will still be the ignition! Have you checked for sparks when the engine goes into fail mode? There's a connector in the wiring to the distributor on my 82 Turbo...not sure about the S2...but it can get corroded and cause intermittent failure of the sparks, which sounds like what you have. If you do flood the engine with too much fuel, cranking her over with the throttle fully open can dry it out and get you started...don't pump the throttle, whatever you do, as every time you do the accelerator pumps in the carbs produce jets of fuel of firehose dimensions....

Scientists investigate that which already is; Engineers create that which has never been." - Albert Einstein

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Gary didn't report any issues when he was on the throttle. No missing, hesitation or lack of power. It sounds like the carbs are loading up or suffering from fuel starvation when no throttle is applied. It wouldn't hurt to change the ignition wires, dizzy cap and rotor if they are old.

Edited by GavinT
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  • Gold FFM

Have been watching this one as well - my car has a habit of stalling as the revs drop at the traffic lights - Only with fans or headlights on though - I assumed that it was related to the draw of my fans on the alternator and dropping volts... However my rev counter does sometimes drop from idle right down to the lower notch - I also get a flicker of the ignition light when it starts to splutter before stalling... Worthing checking all electricals I assume?

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Thanks everyone for all the help. The car runs very smoothly and pick up is clean . Its not a chronic issue either its happened but a few times. Do you think I should start with getting the idle revs up and if so what should I aim for 1000 (?) . I hadn't considered electric so far so will check that also. Thanks Gary.

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Hi Skiing

A drop in the indicated revs means the points aren't doing their job. So check points gap, condition of points and condenser (consider electronic). Wear in distributor shaft. Or even a loose wire (happened to me once).

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  • Gold FFM

Thanks, will have the points checked - mine has had the luminition removed and switched back to points - but am thinking of going electronic as well. Will know when I have it serviced next month. Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...
  • Gold FFM

Just got car back with new electronic ignition - drives really well - much smoother, starts better, revs don't drop on rev counter anymore, idles better - feels totally different. So definitely worth doing.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I recently replaced the points in my Landrover with DIZZYTEK® electronic ignition. The electronic module fits under the distributor cap. Very easy to fit. Just unscrew the points and condenser. Attach module using same screws. Push magnet ring over cam. Replace rotor and cap. Connect wires to coil and you're done.

Distributor on Landrover similar to Esprit. (45D4 Lucas)

Got mine from here

http://www.qualityrebuilds.com/dizzytek.aspx

$NZ165 (~$US125) (80GBP)

Edited by GSimpson
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