Power steering pipes?

[Rich H]

My PAS pipework is rotten and can't be far off bursting.

I've got some 10mm copper pipe, has anyone replaced it with copper?

I'm not worried about the return line, but how about the pressure line? What are the ends like?

I've got a brake pipe flare tool if that'll help...

TIA

Rich

[Simon350S]

It heard of anyone doing them in copper.

I remember sparky changing a power rack and saying the piles were a bitch

[Rich H]

The felx lines look OK it's the hard lines under the car that need changing.

The return line is just a couple of jubilee clips, it's the other hard line that is more of a concern....

[Sparky]

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaagh

[Rich H]

Care to elaborate?

[Sparky]

Just that the unions are incredibly nasty to get at. I now have a set of custom-butchered spanners for the job, but I don't relish the thought of doing another one!

[Rich H]

?? I can see them... I'm not planning on disconnecting the rack, just the hard lines.

[Sparky]

It's not so much the difficulty of the job - just that the pipes could have been positioned with a little more thought. Another case of Lotus finding a bit that 'fits'.

[Rich H]

Another bit of LotArse engineering then... sounds like fun...

[CHANGES]

Hi Richard

The pipes new from Lotus are not that expensive with all the correct conectors on. I just put all new on my SE build and only the flexi 's cost a bit. The down side was the pressure pipe that runs down the chassis was on back order for six months then went to resource. so i had to make that one . I obtained the correct size pipe in the same material as original from local factors. I had to cut the fittings off the origonal and re-use the as i could not find anyone who could swage the ends. It might be worth checking with Lotus first as it is a lot less hassel than making one.

Dave

[andydclements]

On the green excel the supply pipe was holed, I repaired it (temporary fix than never got replaced) by simply cutting the rubber pipe out, putting in a section of 10mm copper hydraulic (brake) pipe with a flare at each end and secured using hose clamps.

I think doing a full pipe in copper to replace the steel ones is fine, as long as it's supported enough (approx every 12 inches) and is shielded from road abrasion (speed bumps etc). At least you will be able to flare it and just re-use the existing fittings.

[Rich H]

The pipes are supported regularly under the car already

I plan on putting rubber hose loosely around the 90 degree bends right at the front which is where mine are most rotten to help with any abrasion

They aren't going to hit speedbumps and so on but are on the leading edge of the chassis.

The pipes are £30 for the return and over £120 for the pressure line (From Deroure.com) I'm not replacing the flexis.

I'm going to make the return line up first as that's easy but I'll examine the swages on the pressure line make sure I can replicate them.

Cheers

Rich

[Rich H]

Got the pipes out and replaced the return line but as above the swages are weird.

They are like a mid-pipe double swage and a flare on the end and a rubber seal.

I replaced the return with 10mm copper pipe but the pressure line was not too bad to I wire brushed it and painted it then put it back.

Cheers all

Rich

[Simon350S]

Nicely done.

Pipes can look real bad but still be very servicable, keep on top of them and they should last you a good few years more.

You must be coming to the end of your list of things to do now

[Rich H]

I wish... It is a bit shorter though...

Vitals:

Repair rad case (Replace rusty steel corners with stainless plates)

Repair + derust fan housing

Refit rad frame to freshly repaired rad

Rad refit...

Fill and bleed coolant (OAT)

Replace undertray anchors and refit

Finish plumbing in dump valve to filter housing

Cosmetics:

Refurb wheels

Repair seat

Fix paint chips

Remove, paint, replace inlet plenum

So a week or so should see it running then I need to save up for the cosmetics....!

Cheers

Rich