Right then better start my '77 S1 project...

[clivef38]

The three wires going to the back of the alternator are correct, but they look as if they have been messed with in the past looking at the tape etc just where the two extra wires come from. I dont know what they are for i will look under my bonnet and see if can see the same on mine. Does your volt meter dot work on the dash.

[CharlieCroker]

The volt meter does seem to be working, I'm a bit baffled by this as it is now obvious that my fuel pump had failed. So I took the advice from mark g from another thread and had a cheap fuel pump in the boot, which after a quick fit is now working, everything has fired back up and looks to be ok again. However I don't understand how the battery lost it's charge in the first place?

[CharlieCroker]

Totally bafflingly this one. So I cobbled together a new fuel pump and set off back home expecting the battery to discharge. But to my surprise I made it the entire way back with the volt meter ready a healthy 12v all the way home. Totally confused to be honest, but at least I made it back safely and now I can fully investigate tge problem, if anyone has any suggestions feel free to post a photo or advice.

[pbharcourt]

I had a similar sort of problem on mine, it was a bad earth connection were it bolts to the rear chassis next to the petrol tank.

The fuel pump needs more power than anything else when the engine is running so is the first thing to stop.

[CharlieCroker]

It was definitely the fuel pump that packed up. Since I've returned home I've been able to fit the new pump properly and securely, rewired it with new terminals and everything seems to be back to normal. The battery issue has baffled me completely, why that drained is a mystery. Anyway, I'll post a few photos soon enough.

[CharlieCroker]

So after the events of the last couple of days and the very annoying headlight pods working intermittent (when they feel like it) I've bitten the bullet and decided to start the mx5 lifter conversion. I've had somw angle iron laying about the garage for ages and I could see a neat solution to make the brackets. So simply using the angle iron as a base and bolting the motors to them creating a very sturdy base to work from. I don't fully know how I'm going to get these in place yet but are a good start. I'll post with more phoros as I go.

I know this isn't going to be a direct fit by any means but when its all done and working I think it will ve worth the effort.

[johnpwalsh]

Hi Charlie, going by past history we all know you will pull one out of the bag and get them working, be interesting to see how you fair with this one.

[CharlieCroker]

So far so very straightforward. The pods came out without any problems what si ever and I can already see my brakets will work fine. Can anyone tell me the purpose of the vacuum pipe that comes off the carb manifold, I take it that runs the headlight pods? To be honest this looks a really straightforward job, just have to permanently fix in the motors, add the new rod, adjust accordingly then wire it all up. I think I will wire the whole thing up first before final fitment but making good progress already.

I have to say though that the old bellows came out without a fight but one was taped up completely with electrical tape, I take it there has been vacuum leaks in the past, and also the pipe work was degrading badly, cracks in it all over the lines so it is more than about time this modification is made.

[CharlieCroker]

Ohh yes, we have power! Incredibly satisfying seeing the lift motor come on, some brilliant advice from variuos forum members of which I am very grateful. Just need to tidy it all up fix them in permanently and away we go. I've got a little video of it all working, will post yhat soon enough.

[CharlieCroker]

[CharlieCroker]

So, I've managed to get all the old vacuum system out; canisters, bellows, pipes the hole enchilada. The canisters almost fell out, just two bolts holding those inplace and the rest is just a case of pulling the pipes through and out. I'm almost there really, just need to wire it all up correctly and create some sort of pull arm to attach to the pod, but I have a plan for that.

One of the canisters wad taped up completely, the other is in perfect condition. All this is going on eBay if anyone is interested.

This is where I currently am with the install. In some weird and wonderful way, not intended at all, but the location of the motor is an absolutely perfect position to create the bump stop for the pod when down, the pod sits exactly on the body of the motor where the 3rd bolt would go, I'll try to get a photo.

Edited April 27, 2015 by CharlieCroker

[CharlieCroker]

I need to ask a question about the wiring, I'm still a bit confused about the way it should all work via the switch. The good news is I've managed to wire borh motors togethwr and they appear to be working correctly. However, thw question is this, on the dash board switch I rotate right once and side lighrs come on (this is correct) then I pull back the switch and the motors come on along with the headlights. But the motors are continually rotating, shouldn't they rotate once to open the pod and stop, then when the switch is pushed back in, shouldn't the motor rotate again to close the pod? Help needed please?!

[CharlieCroker]

Right, pod in and pull rod in place for the first test. Got the thing to popup BUT it won't bloody stop! Just keeps going up and down. How do I wire it so that it comes up once and closes once on dash board switch?

[Barrykearley]

Found this - any use

I have an issue making mine work reliably on the one side - seems to be sticky up.

Me thinks mx5 might be the next fit

[CharlieCroker]

Thanks, I'll try that. Looking at your diagram you are using the yellow, no mention of that on the MX5 conversion thread. I'm sure I just have my wires around the wrong way around, will keep at it, almost there...

Edited April 29, 2015 by CharlieCroker

[Barrykearley]

I can take no credit for the diagram

I've been hunting about for a fix on my motor. I'm sure it's got too much play in the gearing and it sticks up. The screwdown is very tight when it's stuck up. There's also some play on the bracket that I fixed with a hammer but has since returned......

Good luck

[CharlieCroker]

Who ever said the wiring was easy was yanking my chain! I must have tried every combination last night and absolutely 100% did the wiring as per the MX5 conversion thread but all I get is a continuous rotation at the motor errr. No matter how I wire the relay I CANNOT get the up/down motion to work. I can't see what I am doing wrong, I tried the combination as Barry's diagram above but still a continuous rotation, no up/down action at all, what could be wrong, what does the yellow wire do, I'll take a photo of it all then someone may see something wired incorrectly?

[johnpwalsh]

Cmon, Charlie. We have faith in everything you have done so far so we know you will crack it in the end.

[CharlieCroker]

I won't let it beat me that's for sure, it's so bloody frustrating, so close yet so far. Weird thing is all the lights are working correctly as they should, I just can't get a up/down action at the motor. I've tried both wiring suggestions from the forum yet they still just rotate continuously. I'm positive I have wired it as per blackeclats thread but no joy. I'm not giving up yet!

Anyone see anything wrong here?

Edited April 30, 2015 by CharlieCroker

[Barrykearley]

Don't the motors run until they hit the stop? I'm sure that's how they work.

If there's no stop for them to bang against - I'm sure they will just run and run.

I'm sure you will need to try it with the pod refitted and the stops at up and down adjusted. When you power the motor - it should whir until it hits the stop.

If I'm wrong let me know - it's my very nextest job!!!

12v on yellow should send the pod up

[CharlieCroker]

Well that's exactly what I thought, but if you think about it more closely the pull-rod works like a piston, going up and then down, so even with a stop it just comes back down. The way I see it is this, (first action - open pod) pull back on the dash switch for 180 rotation and then stop, (second action - close pod) then push in the dash switch to complete the 360 and stop. For what it's worth I've had the pods in to try things and they just flap up and down like david brents arms dancing. I've pm'd blackeclat but as yet no reply, need his advise!

Edited April 30, 2015 by CharlieCroker

[Barrykearley]

I thought-

12v on red - rotate one way

12v on yellow - rotate the other

Is that how the motor works on the bench?

[CharlieCroker]

I wish it was that simple, I'm getting the feeling I have done something wrong, the two other people that have made this conversion said the wiring is a "doodle", it's not been that way so far for me. I've tried all the variations, not working as suggested, yet...

[pbharcourt]

If you apply a bit of hand pressure on the turning spindle you might find it will stop up and down.

Without the pod connected to add weight they can go too fast and skip over the stop points in the motor.

[clivef38]

Hi Charlie. This how mine are wired sorry no pics to thick.

30amp 5 pin relay for both motors.

pin 30 live feed from starter motor,

pin 85 earth,

pin 86 old solenoid activation wire. black,

pin 87A up or down wire,

pin 87 down or up wire,

brown from motor perm live as per pin 30,

black from motor earth,

green not used.

i cant remember the up and down colours but you should be only left with two wires when all the lives and earths are in place.

I hope this helps Clive.

Sorry should be 30amp crossover relay.