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Excel Rear Hub Outboard Drive Shaft Thread Size


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Hello,

 

The top two / three thread on one of the outboard drive shafts were damaged when the nut was removed

The Service Notes do not give this information. Does anybody know what die is required to recut the threads, please, and does anyone have one?

 

Thanks

 

 

Brian

 

 

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Hi Jim,

 

No it's not those bolts

 

It is the single large diameter thread on the end of the splined outboard drive shaft that goes right through the hub and on which all the bearing sit

 

Thanks for replying anyway

 

Brian

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Hello,

 

Yes it is the Excel rear drive shaft.

 

Managed to get a thread gauge on to the threads and they are 1.5s

 

So an 18mm x 1.5 seems to be the answer

 

Confirmation required though before I spend a lot on a wrong size die nut and completely knacker the thread

 

Thanks

 

 

Brian

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well, my conundrum persist

 

The thread is not M20 x 1.5, nor 3/4 x 16 tpi which is as near as dammit but is too small

 

What else could it be? - a special, but why?

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So, just to be sure what part we are referring to, is it 42311 Shaft in this diagram?

http://www.partsbase.org/toyota/celica-ma61l-blmqec-2-8l-efi-mtm-1981-1985-ge-2-rear-axle-shaft-hub/

 

I'd have guessed at metric because I'd guess at it being the original Toyota part from one of their vehicles, whether it's MA61 or not I don't know.

Can you not use micrometers and measure the outer dimension of the thread, the reading will be slightly smaller than the thread size designation would indicate, due to the rounded peaks of the thread, but not much different.

 

 

If you cannot find a tap to re-cut it how about a thread file, you already know it is / very close to 1.5mm, so just use that part of the file.

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Hello,

 

Thanks for your suggestions

 

I have managed to clean up the threads, but it was a bit Heath Robinson and a long job

 

I cut the top off the Flange to Outboard Driveshaft nut (to make effectively a half nut), cut through one flat side vertically and drtove an old screwdriver into the cut to open the nut out until I was able to slip the nut over the threads. I removed the screwdriver and clamped the nut to close up the gap and slowly wounf the nut up the threads recutting the threads from below. I had to do this a dozen times each time clamping the nut tighter until I managed to get a fairly easy spin ion the nut

 

I cleaned the top threads up with a small 60deg file to sharpen the top of the threads and used the other whole nut the make sure that the nut started straight and not cross thread

 

I am pleased with the result, though the real proof comes when I reassemble the rear hub and fit new nuts - cross threading is one of my nightmares

 

It took all of Sunday afternoon - what a pleasant way to spend a sunny afternoon in the garden

 

 

Brian

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It took all of Sunday afternoon - what a pleasant way to spend a sunny afternoon in the garden

 

 

Brian

 

It was a nice day. Nowhere near as good as the Summer of 69 tho...   :guitar: 

 

Glad to hear you got the threads done. How much of the thread was damaged? Reading the thread I'm still not clear on which thread you mean - is it the hub nut thread?, they have to go pretty tight - is there a worry about the new nut seeing enough of the old thread?

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Hello Duncan

 

Everything I do I do for..............................me

 

The young upstart might have more money than me but I've got the looks!!

 

It was the top two / three threads on the end of the shaft (Service Notes - Rear Suspension - Part 27) that were damaged around the slot when chiselling the nut off (the nut is staked to the shaft with a punch after it has been torqued up)

 

I did not lose any threads and when torqued up there should be the end of the shaft just poking out of the nut - so a full nut is engaged

 

The other side is OK

 

Should be OK - if not I'll get another one

 

 

Brian

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