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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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I've played around with the mixture but haven't got an exhaust on it at present.

 

The worst jobs with the body on and interior fitted are probably...

1) changing the heater matrix

2) replacing the cross gate cable

3) replacing the aluminium tubes which run through the chassis

4) changing the water pump

5) changing the timing belt

 

I've done 2 of them so far so that means I'm still a 'Lotus virgin'

Edited by Paul Coleman

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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I've only done two of these so far, but have done a lot of other unsavory things, such as a bulkhead rebuild! Three months of light pod fiberglassing! Glad Im getting closer to the finish. There's only so many Lotus problems you can fix before you start to loose it!

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Have built a jig to curve the bonnet al little and removed the steel strip for refurb.post-17315-0-99439400-1436183361.jpgpost-17315-0-99553300-1436183382.jpg the plan is to place the bonnet edge in the wood and use shims to change the curve. Then rerivet the metal strip to hold the shape. Bonnet needs some slight repairs, nothing structural - just to achieve a better edge finish.

Its fun drilling the rivets out. They fall into the fiberglass recess. To remove had to tape a piece of tubing to a vacume and feed it through! Still just a few days of filling and rubbing down and should be ready for an Epoxy spray.

Steve Fulchers kindly started my dash, hoping to be ready for Friday. Then can put the binnacle back and all the other bits. Wonder what horrors lie in wait. Jons already told me about the heater cables!

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Does anyone know how the bonnet strut attatches to the bonnet? Have yoy got a picture please? Also how does the spare wheel fit in nthe front boot. It seems the hole for the wheel support is in the wrong place?

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my bonnet strut is attached with rivnuts? but not sure if thats how it should be? the bonnet hinges have bonded in bobbins and I would have thought the strut would be the same? but the S1 could be different than a S3? so not a lot of help!

 
 
 
 
 
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Is the S1 different to the S2 in this regard? My bonnet strut is not riveted in. There is a plate that goes behind a recess in the bonnet. The bolt you can see on the strut in the pic below screws straight into it. 

 

IMG_0958_zpsa7f8yuhn.jpg

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Have rebuilt the left door. Replaced the felt in the window channel with Woolies replacement, works very well. The glass is to stiff to be operated by the motor. The reason is the curvature of the frame. Can put shims in to get the resistance down, but this will take a while.post-17315-0-23887200-1436370828.jpg

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Got the electric window working, but something very disturbing. There appears to be no microswitches or cuttoff when the motor has reached the emnd of its travel? This will cause a current overload and melted wires. Is this how they are? Has taken all day just toget this door done and now potentially have to re-design the window motor.

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Window motors - add relays and separate power feeds to them. Two reasons: 1. Makes window motor switches last much longer. 2. Speeds up window operation due to less voltage loss.  I don't think there is a clutch in the motor at all.

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I've got the window resistance. Down to a minimum by spending a day adjsting the shims and new felt. The problem is when the motor reaches the end of its travel it stops and the load spikes causing a large currentbdrain and a lot of heat in the wires, until the switch is released. The relays would help as I could upgrade the wires. I am thinking of adding microswitches the cutbthe powervwhen the window reaches the end of its travel?

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Have ordrered all the bits to ugrade the windows. Will install microswitches as well. Once the car has an MOT am planing on installing a fire extinguisher system and a power cut relay operated from a switch in the cockpit. Simple Fire dril,

Ignition-OFF

Power cut - OFF

Fire Extinguisher - discharge

RUN

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