S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation

[Lotusfab]

This side finished the same as before except the door stays in the correct position after opening and closing!

[Lotusfab]

Thanks for the tips Jon.

[Lotusfab]

Well spent hours sorting the drivers window frame. Door wasnt closing smoothly traced this to two problems. The door catch needs a spacer as its two far from the lock and the door restraint was rubbing. Pleased with the bushes, nommore droop problems. Distributors here, very pretty but will it work? ordered a door catch spacer from S and J, that should fix the propblem.

[jonroberts]

What model distributor is that Fabian? No vacuum capsule (not that you need it).  SJ had to send mine away, did you buy a new one ?

[Lotusfab]

Hi Jon, its a refurb 41623 43D4 from S and J, sent my other one in and swapped over the electronic part from my new dizzy together with the rotor and I have a new distributor cap. Just hope the rotor is the correct size otherwise no spark!

I Have spent four weeks assembling and taking apart the doors! Finally I am at a point where the project can move forward. Tomorrow I hope to put the door waistline trims on and glue the door seals. Then fit the distributor and thats all I can do till the trim returns.

Jon, I have the new Winguard mirror and am planning to swap the stem with the original. Did you glue yours to the front windscreen?

Another door tip.

If the lock doesnt work smoothly look down through the gap in the top of the door. Make sure the door catch is not sitting on the edge of the door lock. If it is shim it over towards the center. The lock will then work properly.

[Lotusfab]

Fixed the windiw seals. Three bolts, best to put on with the window in. End bolt bear the lock can only be accessed by lowering the window. Bit of silicone sealant on lip.

Door waistline trim.

Cut two bits of trim off and straighten them out. Use masking tape to hole the carrier central to the door about 12 mm on each end. Align each end with the existing waistline trim. Drill the two end rivets and use the two rivets to hole in position. Hold a long sprit level underneath the carrier and drill the center hole. Place a rivet in then drill the other holes using rivets to hold the position as you go. Easier than I was expecting. Have placed the trim on to let it straighten before glueing

.

The carrier has tiny bulges from the rivets. Lightly sand them out before the final glueing.

This is the furthest Ive got with the project, hurah!

Oh yeh, use some bits of cardboard to mask the paint when riveting so if the gun slips you wont chip the paint!

[Wilf]

That looks great! How does the finishing strip attach to the carrier? Just glued? Mine are not done too well and really need replacing.

[Lotusfab]

Put distributor on and rewired with electronic ignition. Guess what no spark! Have traced the problem. The wiring diagrams in the Lotus manual bears no resemblance to my loom!! For anyone who does this in the future this is what I understand.

There appears to be no Ballast resistor on the loom and so the voltage across the coil will always be 12 V. All this will do is burn the coil out more quickly, as it will be hotter for longer (Unlikely to be an issue with a car that is not driven very often)The yellow and white wire from the starter solenoid to the positive on the coil is not required - as there appears to be no ballast resistor- seems to provide a 12 volt feed for starting if a ballast resistor is fitted?

Anyone fitting electronic ignition(red and black) Im using this yellow/ white wire to connect the red to the coil positive. There a pink wire in my loom straight from the ignition switch which is the switched positive feed for the coil. On the negative of the coil two wires, slate/black appears to be the rev counter feed and black/white which goes to the black side of the electronic ignition.

Why does the Lotus wiring diagram not show a switch positive pink wire to the igition??

If I've got anything wrong here I would be grateful for alternative advice. Thanks.

[silverfrost]

Looks stunning Fabian,

 

   The pop rivets on the doors did they have pop rivets on originally,  Think someone has replaced mine with self tapping screws at some point in its life.  I love the waistband trim on esprits, I just don't like the ends as the sealant always goes a greyish colour after a while and spoils the finish.

[marcbria]

Hi Fabien,

 

I had half a wire loom installed on my car, from the center back. This was a federal car, but the wire to the coil was a pink resistor type. Are you sure you have the right wire at the coil?

 

Brian

[Lotusfab]

Hi Dan, thanks. Originally I think they were held on by screws, but the screws rotted so S and J use countersunk rivets. Quite easy to put on. Brian, yep looked at my old loom a resistive wire. Think they missed it on this! Will have to put one in.

[Lotusfab]

Waistline trim is glued to carrier. Get glue from S and J Steves help info on website.

Just fitted distributor. Did static timing having trouble starting fired a few times. Then took out spark plug to check for fuel. For the first time ever the ceramic disintergrated!!!! Couldn't find all bits! Now have to get a Boroscope to check theres nothing in the bore otherwise it will be an engine right off!!

[Paul Coleman]

Fabian, as Brian says the ballast resistor is actually the pink wire which feeds the coil. The other wire from the starter motor solenoid just gives a direct 12V feed when you start. As soon as you let go of the ignition the pink wire gives a reduced voltage to the coil.

 

You can't use the yellow/white to feed the electronic ignition because it's only 12V when you crank, after that it drops to whatever the pink wire gives which won't be enough to drive the module.

 

You also need to make sure you have the correct coil to work with a ballast resistor (or wire in your case).

 

Paul.

Edited September 3, 2015 by Paul Coleman

[Lotusfab]

Hi Paul, thanks. I had disconnect the solenoid end of the yellow and white wire and connected it to the dizzy positive. The Pink wire I have is non resistive, just another problem to sort. So I have 12 volts from the pink wire. Having given it some thought with use a seperate ballast resistor on the pink wire and reinstate the yellow/white wire for starting. What is the voltage from the pink wire? Im guessing its about 9 volts? Have to borescope cylendar 4 today. Have a small pipe and hoover to suck out any ceramic if there is any in the bore. Was unable to start yesterday. Have recharged the battery, plan for today.

1. Check flowlock valve and fuel supply.

2. Check Dellorto settings.

3. Confirm ignition timing is correct.

4. New spark plugs, with gap reset.

Had it running 15 months back, but now have a brand new fuel system and distributor. Fired a few tiimes yesterday and that was it! Difficult to diagnose when all parts are new.

[Lotusfab]

Very good news. Have done a boroscope and there appears to be no ceramic. The engine was rebuilt but never run until my test 15months back. I never had the rebuild pictures of the lower end but now I'm sure. The pictures from the inspection show the condition. Basically as you would expect after a total rebuild and single engine run! The only good news in this project so far!

[Paul Coleman]

If your pink wire is resistive it will have a single conductor (it's basically Nichrome wire) with a thick pink insulation. Mine also had a material outer cover over it (or what was left of it anyway!).

 

Paul.

[Lotusfab]

Well she lives!!! Problem was the distributor set up. Set everything up as per the manual and she sprung to life. Now need to tune. Have a non ballasted ignition coil. Plan to change this for a ballasted one. I dont have the resistive wire. In theory if I connect a ballast resistor in series with the same pink wire it should work in the same way as a resistive wire. The wire and resistor will be a potential divider. The power disappated in the resistor is = VI. So the resistor should disapate the heat from the wire? This is my theory anyway. Just need test it.

[Lotusfab]

First movement in 15years!

[Lotusfab]

Has anyone got a picture of the timimg marks on the flywheel? Mine are worn appears to be a zero line for TDC then marks before and after which I cannot see. Hi timed to max RPM so far. Has anyone git an easy method for dellorto tuning? Thanks.

[Paul Coleman]

Yes a resistor could be used to replace the pink wire but if you've already got a non ballast coil why do you need to bother doing anything?

 

The easiest way to set Dellortos is with a 4 channel manometer... http://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbdtls.html

and a colourtune... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunson-Colortune-14mm-Kit-colourtune-spark-plug-carb-mixture-/130758004248?hash=item1e71c8ce18

 

My mixture screws are all about 4.5 turns out and Jon's are about the same so that should give you a starting point.

 

Paul.

[Lotusfab]

Yep true could get rid of the white and yellow and just use the pink ignition wire. Since the wire is not restivive it will give reasonable voltage. Dont plan on driving in frost or cold. Starts easily now I have sorted the timing, but the carbs need balancing and the whole thing needs refining. Thanks for the info, just need to identify the mixture screws!

[winners]

Guys for what it's worth mine didn't have a ballast coil and hence no resistive wire so not all had that set up. I don't think it was a late mod cost I've seen the state of the wiring and it's definitely been there for getting on 40 years!

[Paul Coleman]

It's worth getting the Hammil book... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Power-Dellorto-Carburettors-Speedpro/dp/1903706750/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441394390&sr=8-1&keywords=hammill+dellorto if you plan on doing any work on the carbs.

 

Paul.

[Lotusfab]

Mmmmm seems to be getting more expensive, just when I hoped it was finished!

[Paul Coleman]

Hahaha no it never finishes - you should know that by now!