Wilf

Space is a premium here so even basic storage is 40-50 pounds a month. 13k over that time. The real cheap storage would result in major deterioration. Once the esprit is gone it frees up the space for something that will be used more. Excel and elite are on the list of potentials.

This one's mine. Would have repaired and continued to use infrequently if it was just thrust bearings and bottom end, but it needs to be done properly with associated costs, and the amount of time I currently get to work on it, and then actually enjoy it does not add up. Did consider mothballing it but then it would be complete rebuild time when I do get the opportunity in another few years.

I have no need for the money tied up in it and no need for it to actually work (as annual mileage proves), though it defeats the purpose of owning it to a degree! I may well just mothball it for a while until the time situation gets better. I have one restoration under way already so need to finish that first as that is a 4 seater that will get used.

Its more a time and cost vs benefit back. I only manage 500-750 miles a year for the last 4 years as its a two seater and I have young children who both want to come along. My fag packet maths suggests the value I sell for needing engine rebuild will probably be equal to the running value minus cost of full rebuild by someone else. Slapping it back together and selling with a known problem is not something I would do. One for me to ponder a while.

This needs a complete rebuild, the bearing shells show some of the iron filings off the crank made it into the oil circulation. Will need to strip everything to get the oilways cleaned, and at that point it would be crazy not to do everything. May be more than I really want to take on currently.

This has been apart since the factory as the rear main bearing has a notch in it, but the bearing cradle is not modified. Damage evident to the cradle 180 round from the rear thrust bearing, and on the rear facing side of the bearing between 3 and 4 both can be seen in the picture. Thrust bearing is stepped to match the crank And the crank in all its glory So is this wear pattern typical of the lubrication issue, or have I got other as yet to be determined problems? Will remove crank later this week. The front thrust bearing is mint.

My engine number is before the mod was done routinely at the factory so who knows! Using a torch to peer down through the holes in the bearing cradle I can see the thrust bearings still in place with bronze coloured bearing face still visible on the parts I can see. The face on the crank however is stepped and not flat and it looks like this small step was originally he only part of the crank running against the thrust bearing. This has then worn to the point the rest of the crank is now actually against the thrust bearing which appears to have limited the movement beyond 3mm. Crank looks scrap, block hopefully OK. Photos once I have it apart for discussion.

Some progress, oil pump housing off, front and rear oil seals off. Did not have sufficient feeler guages to measure the movement but use of an Allen key and measuring that confirms my estimate of 3mm was actually correct. Some concerning signs of contact where it should not on one side of one of the main bearings. See photo. That is no 4 cylinder looking towards the front. No witness marks anywhere else. Will remove bearing cradle tomorrow once I have taken my brave pills!

Gave the outside a clean and removed sump. No remains in there so will remove the bearing cradle and see what horrors await. Is there a published figure for the big end clearance fore and aft on the crank as I am concerned all this movement will have damaged that too. Not found anything in the manual for this specific measurement. Just been on lotusbits, second hand replacements of cranks etc not too extreme price wise so all is not yet lost.

Thanks choppa, my flywheel looks to have similar issues, my end float is approx 3mm(!) And the input shaft comes out of the gearbox.... I shall be busy for a while by the look of it.

Engine on my 83 na will be coming out thus weekend due to excessive crank end float. Plan to just strip the sump and cradle off check mains and big ends as it has got 84k on it. Engine has good oil pressure, compression and no unusual noises. What else is recommended? Will obviously dig further if I find anything unexpected, but are there any other known mileage based issues to address whilst I am in there? Head was reconditioned in last 20k after po suffered cam belt failure.

My 1983 na has the same rear bumper treatment so that may be original, or mine is bodged the same way!

See what you mean. Nothing like that on mine. Will add to the shopping list, thanks all!

I'd assumed it was the pads loose in the caliper so a bit of a surprise to discover it was the sliding pins in the carrier. The rubber seals are present and intact and keep the grit out fine.

Preparing to pull the engine and box, and found the cause of the click noise when pulling away. The clearance between the rear calliper pins and the calliper bracket are too large and there is movement sufficient to allow the click noise. Is this a common issue? Pin wear or carrier wear?

Given all manufacturers seem to claim equivalent and now apparently unattainable emissions, it suggests they are all as bad as each other.

What does there surface of the break look like? I am no metallurgist but apparently you can deduce what happened to a degree from the surface where it snapped. does your lower ride height load these up in a different way from stock? Would guess not as the camber looks standard even at the lower height.

Read service notes, definitely not possible, had forgotten the main bearings do not have individual caps. Looks like engine out time...

My s3 na is running very well but I am part way through a belt change and the crank end float is excessive. i think I already know the answer to this, but is it possible to change the thrust washer (on the very large assumption this is all that is needed!) with the engine in?

On my s3 if left for a long period the door sticks to the door seal on the body making the initial door opening difficult.

Car park at work. nice seeing one as a daily driver by the look of it. if it is yours do not worry about the old banger next to it, I was very careful!

If the calling party does not hang up but you do, it keeps the line open so you cannot dial out. Only gets freed when they hang up, which they do but immediately dial back.

I will be interested to see what happens next. If they do not meet mandatory standards then I would assume a remap would be forced upon anyone using the franchised dealers resulting in worse performance. But as this has been going on for so long a lot of these vehicles will not go anywhere near a vw garage. Will taxation classes change too?

If you mean the shocks have adjustable seats then it would definitely impact the ride height.

In my work car park. Red 54 in the top right windscreen, anyone on here?