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S1 Project car - part 2 - the continuation


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10 minutes ago, Lotusfab said:

Thanks John, does the drain plug seep oil, mine does with that type off plug? Thanks for the pics!

No, mine doesn't leak. Did you use a new copper washer ? Copper washers get 'work hardened' if reused and don't seal well - this can be fixed by annealing them with a blowtorch prior to fitting. You could also try something called 'EZ Turn' which is an aviation grade fuel/oil sealant for threaded components if you really cant get it to stop leaking.  Or just buy a drip tray ...

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Thanks, didn't know that about the copper.  It was the original plug and washer put on by the previous owner. I am doing all the oils and fitting with new washers. Noticed a seepage from the old washer. 

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2 hours ago, Paul Coleman said:

I have filled mine with 3L of MT90 and if you jack it up (at the back I think) it leaks oil from somewhere but I don't know where!

When it needs changing I think I will go back to the original type of oil because the MT90 stuff is so thin it leaks quite easily and I don't think my overdrive is leak free and the O rings on the cross gate shaft also leak.

I did the same - A lot of people rave about MT90, but personally I wasn't keen, as Paul says its like piss and I thought a little noisy.   I've used Syntrans for the last couple of years.

I'd be worried about overfilling too much.   There is no oil seal on the input shaft, itsjust a scroll that dumps oil back into the diff housing.  I suspect there will be a point at which it can't cope

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Gearbox Oil

Had to jack the car up to get most of the old gearbox oil out. Removed the fill level plug. Seems to overflow at about 1.75L. There must be some oil left in the gearbox, even after jacking up? Decided to be cautious and put in 2.5 litres of Redline. Replaced the gear box plug as the one on there was wrong. it had half the thread length and a different thread pattern to the new one with no magnet!The fill plug accessed under the boot floor through the fill plug. There are three copper washers which came from S and J.

Reassembled the drivers door with the quarter window set to the outer edge. Now a pretty good seal with the rubber, shame I broke the other side!???

Well my headlight pods now work great but unfortunately the electric windows are pretty awful. I have cleaned the motors and refurbed them. I put new relays and felt in the channel. I have come to the conclusion the guide pulleys have to much wear and need replacing. (This is the only bit I havn't) replaced. Play in them is allowing the window to tilt slightly when pushed up by the motor causing it to jam or run slow. S and J sell replacement wheels, so have ordered some. Minimal play should rectify the problem and improve operation.

Hopefully my last big disaster I lost the new door keys!!!!. ??????Hard to believe, I searched everywhere. In the end salvaged the situation by putting the original barrels back, a lot if extra work. A t last the end is in sight, I hope. The good news is after a oil change the engine is running very well,  whether it will pass an emissions test is anyone's guess.

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Great work Fabian,  Sounds like as always seems to be the little fiddly jobs that take the longest amount of time :)  and as usual your new keys will turn up when you are not actually looking for them :P  Look forward to the updates and hope you get your windows running smooth soon. ;)

A

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What's the part number for the wheels? Mine are pretty crap too.

The biggest problem with the windows is the frames crack at the back becasue the profile of the frame doesn't match the profile of the glass. The doors/windows are the worst bit of the car!

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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They were on my spare garage door opener in my other car.  No! I can't face taking them apart again! I have to say I think the original door locks are much better quality than the new ones. I regreased all the components and the locks are now working really well. I would say that most new parts are inferior to the original, things like the headlight rims. The new door locks don't work without modification. Just about nothing bolts straight on unless it is original. Also the original parts are a better fit. If you persist with this car you can get everything working quite well, it just takes enormous amounts of effort until your experience builds up. From the pod bearings to the doors they do work with a lot of adjustment this is unlike any other car I have worked on. Most other cars bolt together easily and work first time. Do not get involved with the S1 unless you wish to disappear into your garage for a few years. I've got a feeling there is no end to the maintenance either!

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Owning an S1 really is a labour of love, you've got to want to do it and you've got to be an enthusiast for the car. I've got a 1965 e-type and the fit and quality of replacement parts is no different. Repro panels are the worst and nothing ever fits because the cars were virtually hand made back then. Whenever I look for a car I always look for as many of the original parts still on it as possible and ideally a car that somebody else hasn't restored. If you ever see a car with the phrase 'engine rebuilt' that almost always means the engine needs rebuilding properly hahaha

Just remember... you don't it, IT owns you!!

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Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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Mmmmmm, don't know I still don't have the quarter window or an MOT. Almost ready for an MOT. Think it may fail,the emissions. How did you get yours through the emissions, I forgot?

It's running really well but I tuned it by ear. It seems to be running very rich!

Smells of fuel but runs really well?

Am hoping to attempt an MOT very soon with a view to getting to Brooklands. Not going without the window though.

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I'm hoping to get my Snap-On ScanGas handheld 4 gas tester back from calibration this week. If you fancy coming up to Duxford on 1st May you can borrow it and return it to me at Brooklands the following weekend if you like ?

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OK. Get yourself in the ballpark with the emissions prior to the MoT though - if it smells rich, it is.   How many turns out are all your idle mixture screws?

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yes, just on the transition from yellow flame to blue flame.  Make sure the idle speed is correct (900-1000rpm) when you are measuring it.  Do you have a carb balancing tool (Carbtune or equiv.) ?

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1 hour ago, Lotusfab said:

Can't remember, but I have a gunson test tune could try and set this to blue?

Blue will be way too rich. As Jon says it needs to be before blue but I've not had a lot of luck with those things as the flame changes colour all the while and it's difficult to know where the hell it is in the range.

You could always take a screwdriver with you and twiddle the mixture screws with it on the gas analyzer? Depends how friendly your MOT man is.

Yes I'm planning on going.

Lotus Esprit [meaning] a 1:1 scale Airfix kit with a propensity to catch fire

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