1978 Lotus Esprit S1 539H

[mowgli5555]

Hello everyone....

My name is Josh (31), and I am from Utah. Two years ago, I went to California to find 539H. The previous owner had rebuilt the engine and transmission, but thought he left out a head oil plug near the from of the engine.

After a couple years of a busy life, I decided it was time to get it on the road. Over the last weeks, I made pretty solid progress, and actually started it up to find the leak. The Esprit is missing the oil plug at the bottom-front of the head, and I am attempting to repair this without removing the head.

The car will go through a slow rolling restoration, as I still fancy the original paint. The interior had been updated many years ago, and it will be fine until I can source a more proper interior. Also, I have little intention of restoring it back to original. I would just like to enjoy driving it, while updating things as I go along.

I do have a few questions and would love help from anyone restoring an S1. Mine has a modern electric fuel pump, and the emissions system has been deleted. I do not have the original coil, and am having difficulty in understanding the coil voltage for my exact car.

Lastly, does anyone know the thread count for the oil plug at the bottom of the head?? Thanks everyone for your help, this has been an interesting ride, and it is just getting started.

*I will get some pictures of the interior soon.*

 

[LOTUSMAN33]

Welcome Josh and nice S1 project.  

[silverfrost]

Welcome to the forums Josh,   Nice set of compomotive wheels on your S1 rare as hens teeth 

[mowgli5555]

Thanks guys....

There are plenty of things to keep me busy with the Esprit. Just this afternoon, I ordered a bunch of needed parts to get it on the road (including the head plug, which I found on SJS. The engine wiring is slowly becoming more tidy, but the front boot looks like a mess.

The rear bumper will need to be repaired, or converted to Euro. I actually thought about slightly sanding/shaving the old rear USA bumper down and having it recoated, or wrapped (I almost like the rear bumper). Anyone know what the wrap or coating material is made out of for the rear bumper??

The 15" wheels look pretty nice, and I like a 7 inch wide front and 9.5 wide rear wheel. This evening I am going to try sourcing tires, but finding an all matching skinny/wide set is becoming nearly impossible. It makes me sorta wish I had the original wheel set.

Hopefully, I can get things moving pretty quickly. There are just so many things that could use near future attention, but I just want to see it on the road. Josh

Edit: Here is the missing plug, and the main source of my leak.

Edited August 24, 2017 by mowgli5555

[jtmco]

Josh,

Welcome to the forum. I'm working  on  getting my 77 S1 on the road as well. 

The original wolfrace wheels are nice but they are 14" wheels so tires are also not that easy to find. 

Do you still have points? I'm putting in a Pertronix flamethrower electronic ignition and coil. 

Mine has European bumpers and Dellorto carbs. 

I'm not yet an expert but if I can answer any questions, let me know. 

Finally, if it has been a long time, replace that Timing belt!

Jim

[mowgli5555]

Thanks... I am glad to be here.

Also, I made a boo boo in the 2nd post. The wheels on it now are 15x7.5 and 15x9 and sourcing tires has been a fight. I have been looking for a 205/50r15 and 235/50r15 since I am having difficulty finding anything in between.

It has a Hall effect set up, and a newer style electric fuel pump. I still have located any resistor wire for the coil, and am unsure if the coil runs on a 6, 9, or 12 V set up. Plus, I don't know if my newer electric fuel pump even runs at 2-3 psi yet. 

The front bumper looks to be been changed at some point, but I still have a Federal rear bumper. Zenith carbs for the time being, but with an emissions system delete(which is fine by me). A/C sadly was deleted, but I should manage.

Timing belt has already been ordered with many bits to get it on the road. Until then, I will be just reading and trying to sort the front boot wiring. The interior has been out to verify wiring, but most of it is already on the way back in. Josh

 

 

[silverfrost]

Hi Josh,   Just use a 60mm profile like the later models.   So look for 205 60 15 and 235 60 15 etc,   Run a google search on rim to tyre size,  this will show you what tyres you can run on a certain rim width,  i.e on the 7.5 you can run 205 60 15, 215 60 15 and 225 60 15 etc it gives you a minium and maxium tyre size to choose from.  The 60mm profile will open up a larger tyre selection for you to choose from 

[Paul Coleman]

There are plenty of S1 owners on here Josh who will be able to answer your questions. I spent 9 years restoring my S1. My car doesn't have a ballast resistor it has a length of resistive wire (pink from memory). This normally feeds the 12V coil with a reduced voltage when the car is running. For starting though the starter motor solenoid bypasses this resistive wire and feeds the battery voltage directly to the coil.

[mowgli5555]

Quicks Update. 

Thanks everyone... I went with a 225/60r15 for the rear, mostly because an 8.86 inch rear wide is fine for me. We'll see what I decide for fronts next week.

There is only one pink that I will picture. If this isn't it, then I am stumped to where it might have gone. Feel free to take a shot of your resistive wire color if you ever get a moment.

The block is getting cleaned up a bit while I wait around for parts. It needs new carpeting for the entire engine bay, and I am considering my options. Tomorrow I will actually tape off the ports, as the tanks should be coming back tomorrow and there is more work ahead. Hopefully removing the intake manifold allows access for the screw, but who knows yet.

Oh, on a chipper side note. After looking at a few things, 539H should be the last Esprit S1 off the line. Wow, I feel a bit lucky. Josh

Edit for a couple pictures. Also, this shows you the dark dungeon that I work in right now.

 

Edited August 28, 2017 by mowgli5555

[silverfrost]

Glad you got the tyre sizes sorted    Very cool news if your car does turn out to be the very last esprit s1 of the line,  makes it just that bit more special than the cars already are 

[mowgli5555]

Well, my bumper idea to shave it down, and rewrap in vinyl ends in disappointment.

The brackets inside the foam were well beyond repair, and again, I am exploring my option. I was hoping to stay with the Federal bumper, but now I might go Euro. Josh

 

 

Edited August 28, 2017 by mowgli5555

[silverfrost]

Just watch what you buy state side Josh,  a lot of firms advertising these bumpers online such as wing mirrors, bumpers and other newly made fiber class spares etc are con men,  and the parts fail to turn up sadly.  A lot of owners on here have been burnt and not had parts turn up !  

 

[mowgli5555]

Thank you... I have sent an email to Steve at SJS, since I had already requested a parts order in days prior. It might be a rear only Euro bumper kit without the valence.

I am hardly interested in the rear valence (or engine bay cover), since I just want as much air exiting the engine bay as possible. It might be odd, but I am thinking of rerouting the air intake system lower by where by A/C compressor would have been, and down near the open air. I would rather have my engine running cooler than myself.

The exhaust system will need to be replaced at some point, to which I would like to create a cat/catless conversion bolt on system. A larger radiator seems like it should help it keep cooler. I will soon add an engine bay battery cut off switch, plus an in cabin fuel pump switch, or emergency wire connection.

These will all be things (beyond many more) after I get it running up and down the road. Sadly, I encounter small things here and there that need immediate attention. I need to keep my focus and attend to the right things, first. Josh

 

Edited August 29, 2017 by mowgli5555

[silverfrost]

The euro bumpers look a million times better than the federal ones imo,  I cant say what cooling affects you will gain, if any to be honest by not fitting the rear spoiler imo.  But no harm leaving it off, if only not to fit one at a later date.    I made a rear valance out stainless steel mesh with a u shaped steel section outer housing,  More so to fill the hole that was left while i decided on which way i was going to glass the exhaust outlet holes.  But decided in the end that i did not want to fit the rear bumper and just left the mesh frame as i liked the look .   

 

 

 

[cbclotus]

Hi Dan .your car looks brill .You are very talented ....Would love to see so more pictures if poss .Cant get enough pics of Esprits Mike

[mowgli5555]

Okay... Small/large update.

Well, after ordering the screw from SJS, and about a million hours of work, the screw is in. It took all effort I had, including three "specially made" tools. The area was so tight, that I had to get a little creative just to get it to thread. After multiple attempts, I ended up using a smaller Allen wrench to hold it in the slot, and threaded it in with my fingertips. 

Absolutely wild if you ask me. Anyway, I put a new cam belt on and had trouble getting all marks to line up after getting it set through the tensioner. It took me a good eight tries to get all marks lined up. Not sure why it took me so long, but maybe I was just being extra careful. Plus doing in the car sort of sucks the big one.

Intake manifold is back on, with a new gasket.Tomorow the fuel tanks will go in, and I am hoping they won't kill me. Before I install the tanks, I will run the car again, and raise the oil pressure to see if the oil leak is in deed fixed. 

Tomorrow should bring little progress, but hopefully I can actually get the fuel tanks in over the weekend. Josh

 

Edited September 8, 2017 by mowgli5555

[silverfrost]

Well done Josh,  

Yes the cambelt can sometimes be a little tricky, its just a knack that you offset one pulley very slightly    Engine bay is coming along really well and looks very clean and tidy,  Always seems strange to see the lotus engine with the different carbs that they used for the American market 

 

[jtmco]

Josh,

on the advice of someone here, I painted my European bumpers with black plasti-dip. The PO had already painted them body color. The plasti-dip was cheap, easy, looks like rubber, looks good IMO, and can be removed easily if it gets damaged or I change my mind. Just an idea. 

Jim

[mowgli5555]

16 hours ago, silverfrost said:

Yes the cambelt can sometimes be a little tricky, its just a knack that you offset one pulley very slightly    Engine bay is coming along really well and looks very clean and tidy,  Always seems strange to see the lotus engine with the different carbs that they used for the American market 

 

 

11 hours ago, jtmco said:

Josh,

on the advice of someone here, I painted my European bumpers with black plasti-dip. The PO had already painted them body color. The plasti-dip was cheap, easy, looks like rubber, looks good IMO, and can be removed easily if it gets damaged or I change my mind. Just an idea. 

Jim

Thanks guys.

I have just been working through a slight illness this week, and trying to make a little progress. Today was an interesting day, to say the least. After getting to work late, there wasn't much time for the Esprit. However.......

Today, I decided to get a better tension reading to run the engine. I had already hand cranked it a few times, but still was crossing my fingers. Well, it fired up (a little rough), and sprang another oil leak in seconds. This time on the opposite side of the head, and plenty of oil loss. This hole in the head was a little different, I was actually able to find something in the garage that nearly hand threaded in, and just put aircraft sealant on it, and tightened it down.

Then, after adding an almost embarrassing amount of oil, I was ready to try again. This time around, it fired up, built oil pressure quickly, and didn't leak at all. It made me feel a little bit better at that moment.

Okay... After running it again from changing the cam belt, I noticed a belt guide that my engine has. It started to rub the timing belt a tiny amount, and I need to figure this out before proceeding any further. Hopefully I am able to back the housing bolts out and move the guide slightly away from the belt. If anyone has any thoughts about this, much is appreciated.

Bumpers are still a bit away, among many other cosmetics that really could use attention. I want to ensure this thing runs properly before I start piloting this box around town. Hopefully I am making progress here, some days it make me wonder. Josh

 

[silverfrost]

Hi Josh,  

   Great news on the engine start up      Regarding the cambelt catching,  it seems very strange,  and as you know should not be happening at all,   I would not run the engine again until this is sorted. 

 A few things could be make this happen,   Belt has been manufactured out of spec which is unlikely but not unheard of,  the mount with the belt guard bracket is bent or wrongly located, again,  very unlikely.   I would first get underneath and rotate the engine by hand and have a good  good light on the area,  while rotating visually check the area to see if it fouling the belt on all of the rotation or just one area.  

It may be that your car has been sitting so long maybe some crap has got into the groove and settled or maybe one of the belt groove edges are damaged etc. Also check for constant tension in that area while rotating as if the belt has not been tensioned correctly it can have a slack area maybe ? 

Also do you have the old belt still,  I always compare thickness and check the teeth on belts before fitting i.e pushing one into the other just to make sure,  I know a member on here who had the wrong cambelt fitted for ages that the previous owner did before he purchased it,  he only found out when changing it himself and noticed the teeth on the belt did not locate properly in the pulley holes !  

This should be fairly easy to sort Josh with some good detective work,   Just do not run the engine until it is sorted,  

 

[JerryS]

Hi Josh, re the belt rubbing if you loosen off the tensioner mounting nuts there should be enough slack in the snubber mounting holes to give the correct clearance which I understand is 0.3 to 0.5mm (0.012 - 0.020"). Leave the feeler blade in place as you tighten everything up to maintain the setting.

Great car!

- Jeremy

[mowgli5555]

Thanks guys... I backed out the bolts and was able to get actual clearance for the guide. On Monday, I will bring my feeler gauges in and make sure that I have the proper clearance.

Just going to take my time getting it back together now. From what I remember about the fuel tanks, they are going to take another couple years off of my life.

Initially, I was going to switch to aluminum tanks, but then I opted to clean the old tanks, and respray them. Same with the coolant header tank, I will switch to aluminum for both later on, but the original pieces were plenty restorable. Josh

[Paul Coleman]

Make sure the bottom hose off the water pump has plenty of clearance or the belt will cut through it. You may have to twist it and then tighten up the jubilee clip so that it's always under tension away from the belt. Ask me how I know

[mowgli5555]

Alright everyone, progress has been made today. I quickly cut foam for the tanks, and installed them. Of course, it wasn't easy as expected, but everything went in with just a few scrapes and dings to the fuel tank paint. Oh well, a little touch up took care of that.

Basically at this point, I need to hook up the fuel tank lines (still haven't pressed the grommets in), vent pipes, time it, and actually check the cooling system. There is a bunch of electrics to still go through, but if only I had more time.

Not too sure what I will do with the original wood pieces for the engine bay, I might just limp it until a body off restoration comes around. Plus, I just hate fiddling with these original fuel tanks. Also, aluminum for the coolant tank would also be a nice touch in the future. I just restored the original (quickly) for the time being.

I still need engine compartment carpeting, mostly because I am unsure that I could cut a piece for the rear window. A Euro rear bumper would be great, but I am hesitant to use anything but fiberglass for longevity. Ugh, we'll see what is available, I have been searching, but haven't found too much. Josh

 

 

 

 

 

Oh yeah... Here is an interior shot. I believe this is a Claudius Esprit, Josh

 

[mowgli5555]

Okay everyone... No pictures this time, but plenty of concerns/etc.

Well, the Esprit is slightly running. Over the weekend, I filled the cooling system and fired it up to test the system. This is where things start to get interesting. Well, I had planned to run it for about 10-15 minutes and see if I could ensure that it was leak free, and cool. 

However, after maybe 5 or so minutes, I noticed smoke coming out of the tailpipe, and a small amount of oil leaking onto the exhaust. Ugh, since I am pretty timid, and would never want to hurt the engine, it has now scared me back a bit. The smoke did calm down a bit towards the end of testing, but these oil leaks are draining me for a previously rebuilt engine.

I have some good friends that are life long mechanics, and they believe I am getting really worked up over small things. Perhaps this is so, but this Esprit means a lot to me. Now, I have almost stepped back from progress, but my heart wants to be sealing this engine instead.

Hopefully I get some fight in me real fast. All this work has to end in a positive result. Thanks again everyone thus far, I just need a boost on where to proceed from here. Plus the wiring loom in my car, has a front/rear loom and the colors don't always match the federal diagrams. Josh