hilly

Franky I'll try and get some pictures of them tonight when I get home. I haven't looked at them for a while, but they are definitely not immaculate that is for sure......... Hilly

I think I have got a pair of those (but in pretty manky condition) in my box of bit in the shed...... Hilly

Time start clearing out some of my stuff post Mutant creation ready for me to get a bigger house with a garage and hence Mutant 2 I was planing to keep these with the car should I ever sell it, but seeing as these wheels won't fit now due to the brake upgrade it is probably time to sell them on. So up for grabs is a full set of 15" BBS Mahle alloys and the 15" steel spare to fit S3/TE 1981 to 1987. The tyres on the alloys are not usable (worn to wear bars/perished) so they will need to be junked. However, the spare tyre is like new. All have centre caps, but only 2 have the black Lotus badges on. The alloy wheels need a re-furb as the polished rims have gone dull and the centres have been painted more than once by POs, but they just need a strip and re-powder coating and they will be like new, which any wheel specialist will be able to do. The alloy rims are straight (I drove the car on them for a while), both fronts have the usual kerbing dents (not major as can be seen on the above picture, will come out with a re-furb) while the rears are unmarked. Seeing as the fronts are now made from unobtainium and this is a full set (inc spare) they may help get a car back on the road. Anyhow, I am looking for

This all depends on the extent of the damage, a photo of the hardware would help here. If the PCB boards are not actually broken that will save greatly on cost as getting replacements from the equipment manufacturer will be very expensive. As for damaged/missing components, this is more of a problem, if they are not on the PCB or are damaged beyond recognition then you can't just replace them as you have no idea what they are. Also surface mount components tend not to have part numbers on due to their small physical size, this make identifying them a real pain. You WILL need circuit diagrams to get this thing back up and running, whether the equipment manufacturer will give you those is another matter. Another aspect to consider is that the PCBs will most likely have surface mount components on them and these don't like being flexed as it physically breaks the tiny components (resistors, capacitors etc) in a way that is not visible, even under a microscope. Tracking down faults at this level is extremely difficult/time consuming and is therefore not generally viable, you would be better off getting replacements. If the PCB boards are damaged (cracked, split, missing copper tracks etc) then having replacements layed out/made as a one off will probably cost 10 times the price of a new machine. Sorry for the pessimistic view, but without seeing photos of the damage you need to be prepared for worse case. Hilly

This has been listed on ebay about half a dozen times now. It was bought by the same company that are marketing a V8 conversion for VX220/Elise (Clicky) and they boasted on their website about a Jag V8 conversion for an Esprit, I guess they either couldn't figure out how to do it or the commissioning customer ran out of money. Seeing as it uses an Audi A4/A6 gearbox (it can be seen in the pictures, same unit I fitted in the Mutant) you may as well fit the Audi V8 and supercharge that if you want to go that route as that is proven to fit Hilly

Yippee!!!!!!!, the Citroen van has re-surfaced, bonkers car Stick around here as there are loads of people who will be able to give advice to keep that thing going, which is a good thing. Hilly

One Momo Race fitted to an Esprit ..... Hilly

I got as full set for the Mutant from there, very happy with the service. Hilly

I fitted alloy tanks to the Mutant for this very reason as sorting out corrosion problem on the tanks is a right pain, especially now that the Audi engine is in there. The alloy tanks fitted to mine are for Gcars only, they won't have the swirl pot built into the bottom which you need for an injected car. I got mine from SJS about 5 years ago,

You really should be running a fuel filter before the injectors even with clean tanks as the injector spray pattern will even easily be messed up with debris you can hardly see. Something like this in the line between the fuel pump outlet and the fuel rail will work. eBay item #350115053278 Make sure what ever you get is a metal filter as it will be running a 3bar (45 psi) However, you need to get your tanks sorted, because if they are as bad as you say, then it will block any filter in short order. Hilly

As it happens I have got a working one of these including the loom connector sitting on my bench at work Hilly

No, I used a logic signal directly from the ECU as I no longer have a dizzy. The circuit would be very simple, I have probably got all the bits here at work, so I could draw it up, put all the bits in a bag and post it to you, how is that ???? Hilly

Simon I wouldn't use a connection directly from the distributor for the engine speed without some sort of voltage clamp as the back EMF spike (could easily be over 300Volt) may damage the input on the steering ECU as i am not sure what type of protection it has fitted. I could quickly knock up a circuit to do that for you if you want. Hilly

There aren't a lot of options for the pre 1985 S3/TE. PNM do a Hispec kit with vented disks and new alloy calipers about

If you need a dash panel to take measurements from then I have still got my old one kicking about somewhere (and a spare pod as well) , I am in Shepperton so even closer if needed. Hilly

With the tight 2009 regulations there isn't much scope for making the cars look pretty these days, on top of that pretty isn't fast anymore. Looking at those 2 side shots, I know which one I would want to be driving in a front end collision.......... Hilly

I may be able to help with the wiper switch, I'll have to take a look in my shed when I get home tonight as I can't remember if I have still got it..... Hilly

What ???? like these you mean ???? Hilly

Making it store max reading since the ignition was last turned on would be a breeze,. It would need a switch input to swap between real time and max, but you could assign the digital (or analogue for that matter) inputs to do what ever you wanted. You could even get it to display a warning if any of the inputs went above definable limits............ Hilly

Depends on what parameters are being looked at. The air fuel ratio and battery voltage are taken from my VEMS ECU via an RS232 interface. The external temperature is via a dedicated semiconductor sensor. The fuel level, oil pressure and coolant temperature is piggybacked from the dash gauges. Brake fluid level, alternator status, handbrake, tacho, door switch, VSS, and lights are the OEM sensors/switches. Screen wash and coolant levels will require additional sensors. Hilly

My unit is based around a PIC microprocessor and not a lot else, there is a bunch of signal input conditioning and a 5V regulator, total parts cost (excluding display) is probably about

As it happens I am doing something very similar for The Mutant, except I am using a 24 x 2 line alphanumeric LCD display. This is an early prototype running..... It currently shows real time AFR, battery voltage and external temperature as digits, plus full screen warnings and alerts for stuff like low oil pressure, high coolant temp etc. The PCB for The Mutant has 5x analogue (0-12V) & 11 digital inputs Analogue ----------- oil pressure coolant temperature fuel level external temperature spare Digital ------- Alternator Handbrake Brake fluid level Screen Washer fluid level Tacho Door switch Vehicle speed sensor Lights Coolant level 2 x spare It also has an RS232 interface which connects to the VEMS ECU and gives AFR and battery voltage. The code could easily be changed to display pretty much anything you want as digits or a bar graph, so if there is any interest for this I could get some extra PCBs made up ????? Hilly

Phew! Good news the your car has been recovered Hilly

This is my effort if it is any help I am also in the final stages of getting the alphanumeric LCD display fitted, hope to post some details about that soon. Hilly

This is one of those cases where BHP is a bit miss-leading. Remember BHP is rpm x torque, so bike engines rev way higher than a car motor and this is how they achieve high bhp numbers. The torque figures are low which isn't a problem with a bike as it doesn't have much mass to move about and the higher rev gain you performance due to gearing. In a car it is a bit different as it has a lot more mass. The Honda S2000 is a good example, it gets it's 240 bhp from 2.0 litres by revving to 9K rpm and clever cam timing, but anyone who has driven one will say you have to rev the nuts off it to get any performance out of it, not good round town.... Where as a wheezy old Rover V8 whilst only putting out 150 bhp has a higher torque output at low rev and hence has that instant pull when you floor the throttle. An NA motor will only flow so much air (volumetric efficiency) and torque=combustion which is air + fuel. A small engine will only generate a certain amount of torque due to the amount of air it can suck in, it just depends where you want it in the rev range. Turbo charging small engines get around this by upping the volumetric efficiency by forcing air in under pressure (ie you get more of it), but you then have other problems such a complexity, lag, heat dissipation etc. Hilly