dodge1979

Any further thoughts about the esprit meet? Or is it being resigned to next year now...

Any thoughts anyone on this meet? Or shall we push for daves idea of the venture out for some grub by the sea...

Im sure ive still got your email address somewhere paul to detail anythin you want..but basically off the top of ky head I think those lines are 8mm internal diameter, id like to double check with what ive got left over from doing mine but that wouldnt be till the weekend im afraid as im no where near the car! You can get it from any car parts place, sold by the meter length. Youll need a couple of little hose clips to go with it too, basically the cost should be about 7 or8 quid and half hour labour. Tops! Dead simple job to do with a stanley blade and screw driver..

To be honest your better off changing them for rubber braided. Those hard plastic pipes I find are old and not all that good. And it would be a lot cheaper too. You cant remove them without cutting them, as they are heat shrinked on to give a tight fit. Basically more trouble than theyre worth!

Good looking g-car northbound a46 about 15 mins ago..ah my first spotted post...now can someone spot me please so my missus can continue to believe I am a true geek

Yes im game for either to be fair!18th is free for me, how about making the longer trip octobers run if we can guess a nice sunny autums sunday perhaps? Im sure the cars will make the scenery look good for photo ops and from a selfish point of view it might give me chance to get round to changing my actuator...anyone know the best way to set them up without any special list equipment?

Exactly as above, I reconditioned my own pump with a kit from lotusbits, however I advertandly pushed my pully 1mm too far down, so spaced it out on assembly to the engine when I found this out.now it lines up perfectly. Am I right in thinking pre 92 or 93 cars had a difference in their pumps or was it just a casing difference. I may have just imagined that though. But ill say one thing, I havent found steve that helpfull at times...the attitude of im right your wrong seems common...

Well for how much the bearing costs, and that its not a hard job to change, surely for piece ofmind change it anyhow?

I personally dont use exhaust paste..those olive flanges should seal well enough usually.ive only got a gasket on the turbo to manifold join, and mine doesnt leak.I guess its a case of makin sure its perfectly clean and joins are aligned well

Mine were a little stiffx but theyre not held in with much torque. Its probably the thread lock and age holding them. Mine were soaked, then they went with a crack but were fine otherwise. 5mm hex bit, long reach like you mention just be carefull to make sure theyre clean and the bit sits fully into the bolt to avoid chance of chewing up the head..

As far as I knew they were celica items

Dave ive pm'd u cheers

No the ring is clear of coating. Ive got to check tye gap required, but im suspecting tyd fault is caused by the slightly out of shape ring..

Just a quickie, in my never ending quest to find out why I seem to be leaking boost randomly as I drive or accelerate, does it make much difference if the dump valve is before or after the little black and white one way valve on the line that goes from the front of the manifold to the charcoal canister. I would assume before it? Also, ive noticed this valve is weak and not quite one way anymore...so ill have to get another one and see if there is any difference to my issues!

Erik thanks ill be trying that tonight!

Im running ebc grooved and dimpled frontvand rears. The dimples do provide a weak point with heavy track point, but im not going to be doing tgat often. Im running yellowstuff pads front and rear. The verdict is still uncertain as to whether theyre that good for my use. Im not overly impressed with their bite hot or cold. Although theyre supposed to have excellent fade resistance. Maybe they glaze over in normql road use as they need to be given a bit more hard usage than I give them.im thinking on changing them out for another set of pads. With regards to the rear ebc discs, I was told last year ebc dont make them.

Another note ivefound, and its probably just me but I can never get the function to work whete you can activate tue solenoids individually, I cant get any of those buttons to work!

No no, that is clean of any coating! Obviously I wouldnt get a pick up if it was coated! Now when I cleared the fault and had adjusted the sensor closer to the ring, I noticed whenever I pressed the brake there was a lot of clicking noises going on. Constantly. These dont happen normally with the abs fault present. Also, the brakes felt worse than with the abs not working. Im debating whether to remove the whole setup and go with something else...

Well with daves experience with these pumps im sure we can get them all working properly! It didnt take me long to sort mine out and it was an easy job!

Oh the bearings are fine. Everything is brand new...it just looks like the ring is deformed. It wasnt noticable when I had all the components apart for powder coating, only noticed it when I spun the hub round on the car looking at the gap.

Thought about that, however I have another factor of the abs ring itself. There seems to be a slight run out of true when you spin the hub. So it almost has the effect of moving closer and then further away from the sensorn is there a specific gap to he maintained? The sensors have shims in between them and the hub to adjusts to suit.... Thought about that, however I have another factor of the abs ring itself. There seems to be a slight run out of true when you spin the hub. So it almost has the effect of moving closer and then further away from the sensorn is there a specific gap to he maintained? The sensors have shims in between them and the hub to adjusts to suit....

Using espritmon im getting a fault from my osf abs sensor. Ive tookit out, cleaned thd face and refitted. Still showing a fault after reset. Does anyone know how to test the sensor itself to see if its faulty or is it a case of fit a new one and see...

Ok its sorted! Sealing up the top pipes connection to the top lid of the pumo helped, then just adjusted the little switch inside and it runs for a few seconds then cuts out. Then every now and then it runs and cuts out...thats good yes!

Currently on it. Ive took the top off the pump. Now, ive put my finger over the outlet end to see if there is a vacuum there. I fan feel one so thats a start. It doesnt cut out no.however, I have noticed the pipe at the top where it goes onto the lid of the pump is not that tight. It pushes onto a little plastic pipe that runs inside and its A little loose. Now, with pump running and finger on the end to try and trap the vacuum, I can see the little switch on the underside of the pump lid move up towards the shut pump off position, but it fractionally stops before the point at which the contact cuts out the pump.however, if I push it a tiny fraction more with my fingernail it cuts out the pump, and still with my other finger over the end of the pipe holding the vacuum, the switch stays in the off position. With me so far? Now this to me suggests that as the vacuum is then strong enough to hold the switch from activating the pump again, im assuming the diaphram dave speaks of is good and not leaking. So this means perhaps the leak is the top pipe going into the top of the pump feeding the switch that controls it. Solution? Well as a temporary measure im sealing the joint there to see if it can build up a better vacuum strong enough to control the switch bt itself.... Phew...

Ok ill be looking this afternoon...so if I were to unplugg it, is the car still useable? Bear in mind I have no throttle jack or ebv for the solenoids to control, however there is a very thin plastic lines which seem to run off to the right hand fuel tank compartment into a wee little black box if I remember..