shaman

Just about to replace the fuel vent pipes - unsure of the correct orientation for the small silver valves, upright but which end goes to the filler elbow, fat or thin, thanks in advance for advice. John.

Has anyone installed a cooling fan to encourage air flow into the engine bay when the car is stationary? I've found that in hot weather my s2.2 dies / very unhappy if at a stand still or in slow moving traffic. Just wondering if the carbs get too hot causing fuel evaporation? Runs fine when on the move (and also in cooler weather). Grateful for any thoughts / experience. Cheers John. P.S. Sorry to hear no meet at Brooklands this year.

Just to complete this thread - the hand brake mounting plate is constructed from the plate and a threaded cylinder welded in place. The leaver pivots on a bolt that screws into the threaded cylinder. I found that the weld holding the cylinder to the plate had failed allowing the lever to pull to the side rather than upwards. The solution was to remove the inner sill cover (thank you Pete) and locally remove glass fibre around the cylinder which protrudes through the inner sill wall from the outside. Some careful welding to reattach cylinder to plate and reassembly. I can see no way of removing the hand brake mounting plate for repair without disturbing the outer sill body work or sill ends in wheel arches - hence the repair with mounting plate in place. Full handbrake efficiency now restored!

At risk of stating the obvious it's a pair of relays. What they are for will be determined by what they are powering.

Vanya, Danny, Pete Thank you all for your advice - further investigation revealed that the problem lay with the hand brake lever itself, this had become very loose on the mounting plate, in particular the 10mm bolt holding the ratchet plate this was very loose and very deformed. I've replaced this and now things are very much improved. The main pivot for the brake lever on to the mounting plate is still loose and ideally I'd like to totally disassemble to firmly reattach (I imagine this needs welding back into place) - however accessing the mounting plate seems to involve removing the outer sill body panel? Something I'm reluctant to do due to the likelihood of damaging the paint. There may be a way of accessing from inside the car? perhaps cutting a large enough hole in the inner sill. Again any advice from those who have encountered this problem before gladly received. Cheers John.

Danny - Thanks for your advice, I've have been thinking about it and I have come to the same plan of action so come the weekend I'll execute. Look out for a progress update! Cheers John.

Hi Vanya - yes the levers on the callipers are fine they move freely and return to the correct position, I just wonder if the advance mechanism inside is not working as it should John.

Hi Dan - yes I was adjusting the cables at the inner sill point. As far as I'm aware on the pre 85 cars there is no adjustment on the calliper itself. More investigation required over the coming weekend I think!. Cheers John.

Just spent a frustrating bank holiday attempting to adjust the hand brake with no success. No amount of adjustment seems to improve the efficiency. I'm left wondering if the auto adjustment mechanism in the callipers is faulty? Certainly over time the number of clicks on the ratchet has increased in order to hold the car on a slope and now seems to have given up altogether. Has anyone had similar experience - would be good to hear before I invest in recon callipers. Thanks John.

Does the choke light not also indicate low fuel level. I know my choke light flashes on and off when I'm about quarter full. Could be a poor connection on either of these circuits.

Thank to you all for your advice - once everything was back together and lined up I have the cams aligned with an approximate 2 degree BTDC on the crank. This is the best I can do and certainly not a tooth out on the belt as I initially suspected. Car runs OK so I'll live with this for the time being. Cheers John.

What a pig of a job! The cuts to my arms and bruises to my chest just about healed now!

I'm changing the cam belt on my Esprit 2.2 for the first time. When lining up all the engine timing marks, I have the dots facing each other on the cam sprockets but the engine timing reads approx 6 degree BTDC - this seems wrong and suggests the belt is one tooth out on the bottom crank sprocket. On reassembly I intend to correct this so everything lines up - or should I leave as it is? Your experienced advise please. Thanks John.

51. Shaman. Esprit S2.2

Hi Phil. I run 21 on the front and 25 on rear. Seems fine at these presures. I'd be interested to hear what others run their s1 s2s at. Cheers. John