GrahamS

Yes. There are some ‘manufacturer-specific’ codes, also a logging capability IIRC.

Glad you got it figured out! Regarding the TPS reading, check your gas pedal. The tang on the side tends to bend backward resulting in less than 100% WOT. Gmendoza posted a nice fix for this on one of the forums. It sorted mine out. Here are the bits you’ll need: J-Hook 10-24 UNC thread 3/16" bar Lock nuts Washers Steps: 1. Bend the tang back into place 2. Check for 100% on the TPS 3. Check/adjust throttle cable on the engine 4. Drill pilot and thru hole through the pedal tang 5. Use the j hook to hold the tang into place 6. Enjoy 100% WOT, cant locate pix at the moment. Will take a new one and post it later Good luck. Please post your findings for others! Graham

So, ports are ok, and the software/pc side of things is ok on another vehicle...this is a good sign. Seem to remember that there is a button labeled ‘refresh PIDs’. Have tried pressing it? I’m thinking that the available PIDs may come through to the PC quicker on the regular car than with the Esprit. The software needs this information from the ECU So it can display all the parameters. Just a hunch. I don’t know exactly how the source code is structured (but would be interested if it can be made available).

Just a thought...do you get the same response from both OBD ports?

From my earlier post to save searching: ...for those using an ELM327 USB interface, the CP2102 UART driver for Windows XP that comes on the CD (v6.3a) doesn’t work. I installed the Vista version (v6.5) and after a couple of reboots it worked just fine.

Check out my earlier post regarding drivers. I had problems with a work-related project using the same CP-102 driver. I’m ‘between’ laptops at the moment so I’m using a Bluetooth OBD from Go Point technology on my iPhone. It doesn’t have all the cool features of Peter’s software, but it does the job for general poking around. you can use any generic OBD reader but you need Peters software or the Lotus scan tool to get the manufacturers specific codes. Search for Sanj’s Esprit page. He used to sell the Lotus one. Good luck!

Check the air box is sealing correctly. Mine had a mould defect. See attached. Quick remodel with a dremmel and it fits together now.

I have used it on a Windows tablet with an ELM 327 OBD2 Reader (from Amazon). It works great. Graham

Matt, sorry-sold them a while back.

Hi Alan-how goes the investigation/reverse engineering efforts? Graham Y2KV8

So it started with a few symptoms: First was a slight hesitancy at 2400rpm, barely noticeable, but enough to warrant some investigation. Secondly the popping noise on the bank 1 exhaust, which has been attributed in several posts to various things ranging from bad exhaust valves to leaky secondary injectors (as above) to ‘they all do that sir’. The V8 works on the wasted spark principal, so I did a continuity check from the corresponding HT leads: (thanks CaptainBigleux) Cyl 1-4 was 36MOHms, and increasing (similar to charging a capacitor…not good) Cyl 2-3 was 33KOhms…OK Cyl 5-8 and 6-7 were not able to be tested as the electrode detached when I took the HT leads off. Obviously…not good. Suspect some water had got in there at some point…as CaptainBigleux mentioned. So, at this stage I ordered a new set of HT leads from JAE, sulked a bit, and started to look into how to remove the plenum chamber. Then I called my local mechanic, then I sulked a bit more then whipped the trunk out decided to have a go at it myself. Fortunately, there was a fairly well illustrated post on LEW (http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f164/plenum-removal-injector-upgrade-178353/) that helped back-up the brief description of the plenum removal procedure in the service manual. I wouldn’t say it was easy, but it came off eventually with the help of a Jedi mind trick to detach the Idle Air Control connector. I tried mirrors, headlights, flashlights but nothing worked. Your hands always get in the way, and you have to think backwards….better just to do it blind. I eventually removed it using 8” long nose curved pliers. It was a case of feeling the connector and then locating the pliers on the wire loops. Fun. I replaced the HT leads one at a time and labelled them with those clip-on numbers. When I got to #8 the coil connection felt more loose than the others. Closer inspection revealed a rusty terminal that obviously was not going to heal itself. Back on the phone to JAE for new coil packs. Decided to change both as I did not want to go through this joy again. The new coils measured about 11KOhm on the secondary side (15KOhm via the HT leads), and 0.8Ohms on the primaries. Satisfied with the electrical side of things I set about installing the new coil packs, only to discover that the 6mm hole patterns didn’t line up. I opened the holes up to 8mm and they went in OK. The coils sit inside the ‘V’ and there is very little room for all the wires. It took a bit of trial and error to get them neat and tidy. I would recommend replacing the M8 bolts with allen screws to make installation easier. I managed the re-installation with a short section of ¼” stock to drive an M8 socket. During this process I noticed that the spiral wrap that protects the HT leads had disintegrated. I verified the melting point by testing it in the oven. The existing stuff meted at around 250°F. Tried the cheap crap from the local auto parts store (“oh this can withstand any temperature…”), melted it at 200°F in the oven, then sourced some Teflon (450°F) spiral wrap from Brown Aircraft Supply. I ordered 8ft, which is plenty for the HT leads and enough left over to do the O2 sensors (different topic). “Re-assembly is the reverse of the above…” or so they say. I had good notes on everything, but after spending two weekends trying to get the plenum back on I gave up and had it trailered it to my local mechanic, which I what I probably should have done in the first place. So, back on the road. Ran it through the OBD drive cycle today and it is running as sweet as a nut. The hesitancy (suspect this was coil connection #8) and the popping (unburnt fuel in the cat) have gone away. This has definitely been a learning process and hopefully there’s some info here that others may find useful. As always, YMMV and as with everything Lotus your best friends are patience, a magnetic retrieval tool and ibuprofen. Cheers, Graham.

I have a question regarding V8 fuel pressure and would appreciate your thoughts. I didn't start the car, just turned the ignition on until the pump stopped then I measured the fuel pressure. After the 1st time I could see pressure dropping visibly at about ~5psi/second After 2 more KOEO until pump stops: Pressure was 58psi initially Pressure Drops to: 50psi in 5 min 49psi in 10 min 48psi after 15 min Is this drop enough to indicate a leaky injector? Thanks, Graham. Y2K V8

This company seem to have done a nice job on a V8 using a Haltech ecu: http://pbz.se/pbz-lotus/.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have a couple of areas to go look at now. Will post results in due course.

Thanks Barry - any opinion on the vacuum reading? In response to your comments, the car is driven at weekends only and I keep the battery on a tender between runs. The O2 sensors and 200cpi cats are new this season. RC injectors were cleaned and calibrated prior to installation last year. They only have about 3000 miles on them but i guess i could try the injector cleaner. The popping noise has been present since i bought the car and i've been slowly trying to eliminate it by adding the items mentioned above.