makepeace

Hello everybody, does anyone possibly have boot patterns, drawings or anything useful to reconstruct the boot carpeting or know of a supplier who can do so? I have got in touch with about 3 places that have interior patterns for the Elite, but they do not have the boot patterns. My car came without all but the battery cover, window brace and the side panels (albeit burnt to smithereens on one side).

Kind of looks like the same something that I've been experiencing. It improved after replacing bearings and torquing the hub nut properly and a couple of other things mentioned below, but fairly sure it's still there and only chimes in as a problem at about 80 km/h or so. No heat or anything. What I did notice when putting everything back together was some suspicious arrangement of washers on the diff studs. I changed that to be a bit more uniform and to something that looked "normal", but I think this might be part of it. Then there was also the missing diff stud reinforcement which I added, and I had to jack the chassis out to make it fit @ 400mm centres. My next approach is to do a full refresh on the rear (and front) suspension so that I can get a suspension shop to have a proper look. Looking forward to your investigation.

This has also inspired me to do the conversion. Just found a MX5 being broken down for parts locally, going to see if I can get hold of some bits!

Thank you! That's perfect.

Did you tighten it further than 200 lb to fit the pin or loosen? SM says tighten.

Hi all, I want to get a gear knob turned. Would really appreciate if someone could measure the circumference/diameter of their gear knob. It seems from what I have found there are also different types. There are not a lot of photos/details. Any photos of your manual gear knob and car details ie S1/S2, year would be a bonus.

Yep, that definitely doesn't look right. The wheel should not move relative to the hub carrier. Either need to making the hub tighter or its a bad bearing.

I ended up going for the NOS bearings from SJ in the end as the price would not have been much different sadly, even if you factor in the future savings. This is a fairly odd sized setup.

Wow, beautiful. This is the dream

Hi all, how does one determine which diff ratio is fitted to the car between the 3.7 and 4.1? Is there a marking somewhere on the diff? Trying to determine which speedo drive to get for the Getrag. Or maybe that is the correct question - out of 18, 19 or 20 teeth on the Speedo drive pinion, which is needed for the Getrag box? TIA

Hi everyone, I am on to the planning for the output side for my manual conversion. The BMW Getrag box I have has a 3 bolt flange that is held on quite a short splined shaft by a nut like so: The typical BMW application uses a guibo - a flexible coupling between the flange and the driveshaft which is also flanged. Like this: As far as I know the Lotus has an internal splined UJ yoke, and the difference between the end of the currently installed output flange on the Getrag and the end of the external splined shaft of the Lotus box that I would have to work with is roughly 67 mm. Ideally I'd like to keep the propshaft the same without much permanent modification, possibly just replacing the slip yoke with a fixed yoke. An idea for this would be to use the BMW guibo with an adaptor on the propshaft side that converts the guibo bolt pattern to a normal UJ yoke pattern. Another option would be to do the same but without the guibo, and a longer adaptor. One thing I am concerned about is the amount of axial "give" required for the Lotus driveline setup. Is a slip UJ mandatory here or could a fixed unit work without introducing vibrations and/or an unreliable solution long term in terms of wear? The other alternative would be to get a shorter driveshaft made and make a slip yoke externally splined adaptor that bolts to the BMW flange. Does anyone have any other ideas? Would really appreciate all of you knowledgable folks' input.

Something like this happened to my car a couple of months back, but I didn't touch the wheels/hub carrier, just the drum and driveshaft. My brakes had definitely bound up for some unknown reason. I remember doing some things like pulling up the handbrake and rocking the car and also doing the reverse and handbrake pull adjustment method as well as hard braking and it seemed to right itself. I then had the brakes redone as everything started popping on me - master, wheel cylinders. Now it's all good. Try jacking the rear up under the hub carrier lower links (and securing it properly) and running it in gear maybe with the rear wheels off to be safe to see if you can see anything strange. I would probably say your brakes need more attention than the bearings as long as the hub nut is FT. Edit: when I redid my rear bearings I packed them chock full of (I think LM?) grease, so time will tell which is the right approach.

I've found so far that the SAAB 900 pressure plate seems compatible...

Hi everyone, does anyone know what the options for clutch pressure plate are for the 907 in the Elite/Eclat? I believe it's a 215 mm clutch. I would like to try and source locally in South Africa if it's an option. I would probably prefer for radiused fingers (S2) as it gives more options for release bearings. Is there any standard p/n for this from other cars? 👀

@black eclat do you mean you were able to use the auto bellhousing? If so that would be amazing. Half expecting to need to make an adaptor.