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soldave

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  1. Nothing like a 9-year thread resurrection! Did this method of fitting the mount from underneath work out for you guys ok? Also, about how many mm in spacers did you need between mount and box? Just wondering how many I'll need to get if I mount it the same way.
  2. You might be overthinking it there. On the Lotus there will be something called an otter switch in the top radiator pipe, and when a temperature is reached that should start the fans. I've modified it a little so I have the otter switch but I also have a manual fan switch in the car to turn them off before the threshold temperature is reached. Since installing that I've rarely used it as the otter switch works well, as long as you've confirmed it actually works (i.e. if the fans come on when it's getting toasty in the engine bay!).
  3. Roland is, as per usual, absolutely correct. One easy upgrade you've probably worked out therefore is to install two fans even if you don't have a/c. Spal fans are very good, but some might think overkill for our engines. I've got a couple of no-name generic fans on mine and they've done me fine for the past 6-7 years at least :)
  4. Also, try giving the door a push inwards and then try the outer handle again and see if it will open. As I was refitting the passenger door on my Eclat I had to do that a couple of times as I got the angle of the striker plate right and also lubricated up the locking mechanism. If you push the door in near the lock and hear a further click then you might get success that way. If not then it might be a door card off job, although those screws at the bottom of the card may be quite a pain in terms of access with door closed. I've currently got the door card off on my passenger door as it doesn't seem to fit correctly with new window frame(!) so if you need me to check anything then let me know.
  5. I've bought the Gates 5146 belt for my '79 Éclat previously and it's worked fine for me.
  6. North West Classic never replied when I asked them the price; just told me they had a lead time of 9 weeks. JL Spares never got back to me about the rebuild failing in 18 months either. So I've elected to see what the best of our Chinese brothers and sisters can do, and ordered a Land Rover one from eBay! Actually, one of the reviews of the servo from this seller said they had put it onto an Excel (anyone here?), so I'm in good company! I've got a local machine shop creating a 20mm spacer for me so the fork is where I need it to be in relation to the brake pedal. There were a couple of hex standoffs I could have bought from eBay at the right size, but I thought I'd prefer something in stainless and where I can be relatively confident with the quality when it comes to brakes (says he, ordering the Chinese-made servo). Will report back next week with some pics on how it turns out :)
  7. I get the feeling if I stomp that hard, my foot will be through the firewall and actually rubbing the wheel to slow me down!
  8. I did spot that post of yours, thank you. Looks like my decision is whether to get a Britpart servo for LR where quality can be hit & miss... or rebuild of mine from one of two suppliers (one of which lasted 18 months previously!). Quite an exciting decision with my brakes and life being in my hands 😁
  9. I did see that I think. How much work does it take to make it fit? May very well do that - if there were any alternative places I could find easily for a servo rebuild, I'd probably be going elsewhere.
  10. @Chillidoggy 18 months ago it was £175 plus VAT and shipping both ways for the rebuild. "New" ones are also reconditioned ones I assume, and come in at about £230+VAT and delivery
  11. They rebuilt mine 18 months ago. Disappointing it has only lasted a year and a half considering the price, but will need to go back to them again.
  12. Just took a video in the pedal box and the sound with foot on brake is a bit more pronounced in the video but I think that may very well be a leaking servo. The car almost died (admittedly on a cold engine with no choke) with the brake held in. https://youtu.be/S58M8jl1bkc
  13. Pumped brakes with engine off; when it starts I can feel the pedal go down a little. Also when driving with the vacuum pipe off the servo and capped off the brakes are very heavy but the feel is consistent. Put it back on and the problem comes back; feels like the assist is working initially but then when the pad touches the disc I have to stamp down to get any traction. I even tried the 2-person method of bleeding last night but it's made no difference today. That sigh/slight "shhh" sound from the pedal area when I put my foot on the brakes just makes me wonder if there's a leak in the servo.
  14. I think it's got to be one or the other though, unless the brakes have so much air in them from bleeding...but that would make them aofttand not the feeling I have. Any idea if the "pump the brakes with engine off, then keep foot on brakes and start engine, waiting for pedal to drop" test works on these cars? That's all I can think without sending the servo off for testing.
  15. Went for a drive today and randomly the brakes felt very wooden, with a small sigh coming from the pedal area when braking, in gear and moving. Car seems to be pulling decent vacuum and it doesn't feel like brakes needing breeding (although I have flushed the fluid recently). Feels more wooden than spongy if that makes sense. Which makes me think servo or servo non-return valve, the former was rebuilt 18 months ago and the latter replaced 18 months ago. Easy test was valve. Pulled it and found I could suck from the valve at point 1 (see below), but could not blow. So far so good. But at end number 2 I found although I couldn't suck, if I blow quite hard then I can blow through the valve. I can't get my head around whether that's a good thing or not though! Can someone confirm before I buy a new valve?

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