soldave

Good question, and one I had recent experience with. So if the streetlights are decent then you'll be fine with halogen lamps or xenon bulbs. Last weekend I did have to come half way across the Pennines in the middle of the night not using the motorway so was on a fair few roads with zero streetlights. When the full beam is on the visibility was OK, but dropping down to headlights when a car was coming in the distance really reduced my own visibility. There are some more modern alternatives which would work, but you would start to lose the original look. If I was doing a lot of night driving I might consider changing out but as it's relatively rare for me in the Eclat, I'm fine with my halogen

Whereabouts did they notice the wear? My timing belt will be done this winter (springs changed last time) but I'll take a look to check tensioner body wear too.

Try J & L Spares. They did a full rebuild of mine internally and I had good experiences with them. https://jlspares.com/

Your other option which is what I did last year is have the brake servo rebuilt. I think it is possible to do it yourself, but I trusted this one to an expert. I'll grab the details if you're interested in doing that instead of buying a replacement.

Thanks for that. Good knowledge, especially with it maybe just being the bushings that's causing my movement. I think anything that's looking even slightly worse for wear back there is going to get replaced. May as well do it all at once whilst it's all apart.

I've noticed recently I've got a bit of vertical movement in the passenger door and the bottom of the inner door trim rubs on the rubber door seal. Plus the hinge pin moves when the door opens and closes, so it's all looking like that fun job of a door beam replacement is on the cards in winter. I'll get the beam, hinge pin, new nuts etc but what else should I plan on replacing at that time? And is there anything likely to break as I'm taking the door apart that I should plan on having to replace? I want to put this off as long as possible, but no time like the present to put together a shopping list! Many thanks in advance.

Awesome news. How did you confirm it was the capacitor? Apart from replacing it and it started working again!

Just follow the smoke! Drive went well and I can highly recommend that pump if you want an alternative to the SU.

Cool cool. I'm going to take mine for the first drive tomorrow with this pump to get some more petrol but idling it runs great!

Just a thought on this one. Won't the pressure be slightly high at 3-5psi? I guess as long as it regulates to 3 all the time it should be ok but isn't that right at the top of tolerance? Or am I talking rubbish as per usual?!

I've just replaced my fuel pump on my Éclat but also want to replace the length of hard plastic housing from fuel tank to pump with some nice new R9 line. So I'll need to retrieve the banjo but am not sure if the size. Does anyone know what size banjo I would need to go onto the banjo bolt into the tank. The outlet would need to be an 8mm hose fitting so I can connect the new rubber hose to it. Many thanks in advance.

I've just replaced mine with this and it looks to be working great (although I need a new banjo for the tank for my new fuel line).

I can second that. Relay the fans up for more efficiency and safety. I nearly had a fire start in mine on a hot day caused by fan wiring. Fortunately the wiring fried itself and nothing else.

Sorry it's been over 7 months since I posted. Life with a toddler has just taken over and I've hardly had chance to do anything else The car got it's brake servo rebuilt in the autumn after the diaphragm inside failed and left me with very unpredictable braking . Not goof but all replaced now. Recently though the car has had issues starting. After the car has been left for a while I'm no longer hearing the ticking of the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition. Thought it might be the points in the pump so I gave it a few taps but nothing. Then after a good few minutes if turning it over it fired into life. It then runs fine and when the engine is warm will restart without an issue. Seems like the longer I leave it the more difficult it is to get it going. I need to do some more testing on the fuel pump but may be needing a replacement I think. If I need to replace it would be a good opportunity for me to fix the broken bolt from the top pump mounting bracket too. Looks like it'll have to be drilled out which will be fun!

Much obliged. It might be 1/2" UNF but I want to be sure before I start with a tap!