Xisthos

Hello, I'll definitely take one

Hi guys, I was wondering if any of you have any experience using this particular model, and if they are just called differently in other websites? https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/automotive/lotus-exige-v6-mkiii-2013--6339/ I don't see any other Ohlins product for the V6 being called this in the other well known vendor websites. Also, the spring rates seem a little low, unless my conversion factors were way off! Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

FWIW the temps you are talking about are typically for where I live, which range from 35-45 degrees C. 24 C is considered a cool day here, seriously 😂 but I have it outfitted with a triple bypass radiator, among other things and have not had any issues at all on the track, except some notable loss in power as compared to our cooler months (24-26 C)

Hey Imran, thanks for the feedback. Where are the setups posted? Did you go with the 3way then?

Hi Guys, I am about to pull the trigger on new suspension as well and I am looking at the 3 way Nitrons, or even the Ohlins TTX. My issue is that I don't really understand how I'll set it up on my car, and what is required. Also does the suspension really need to be serviced every two years? Because in that case I wouldn't really know where to send it. For either of these systems, are they pre-set recommended settings for certain tracks where I can compare my local tracks to?

Hey guys, thank you for all the inputs. After spending weeks with two different 400's that my dealer generously lent me, and after looking at a V12s Vantage and and R8, I have come to the conclusion that it won't do it for me unless it'll be the GT430. I haven't tried one yet of course, but I can only imagine how good it is, especially after seeing the difference between the 410 and the 400. As mentioned here, power is good to have, yes but it isn't high on my priority list. There's only so much enjoyment you can get from that. Each driver is different and I really value steering feel and chassis feedback over anything else. I can't wait to see what the car will feel like with the Ohlins TTX. The other deciding factor was that I just had to have a MT, despite the incredibly bad traffic around here sometimes. The shifter in my Sport 350 just adds another dimension to the enjoyment of the car, and no offense but I feel that the IPS makes the car obsolete right away, as I plan to keep the car for a long time. So my only problem now....is which color to get it with! By the way in case you're wondering, I'm still keeping my Sport 350!

Thanks for all your inputs. Yes the pricing here is pretty terrible as we have 100% import tax and excise tax on top of that. There are probably 5 400 owners and 1 410 owner, no one has the 430 yet. Just for reference, the M3 was around 175k Euros as well, so you can imagine how much people are paying for their Macca 720s and the new GT2RS (620k). Anyway I digress, yes the spread is 100k but if I was going to spend more than 30-40k in upgrades to make it feel better and as good in terms of looks and performance, I think I wouldn't be doing it properly, since if I just ordered a 430 then it would accordingly exactly to my spec. Plus I am planning a trip to Goodwood anyway so it would be rather special for someone who lives so far to see the car on the production line! Anyway, what bugs me is the risk of the 400 not becoming as special as the 410 that I tried, and I can only imagine what the 430 feels like. Another dilemma is that if I'm going to be spending that much, then maybe I better wait for the very last, "ultimate" iteration of the chassis. The reason why I'm tempted is of course, because of the rather large discount they're willing to give. You are completely right in saying that I would have been perfectly happy with the 410. It's just that if I have to order a new unit, then it would only make sense to add a little more for the 430. Regarding the exhaust, there are pretty much no one enforcing speed limits here anywhere (even in school zones, I know it's crazy), so you can imagine how no one cares all the more about noise regs. My exige runs without a cat in fact, so that's a non-issue to me. It has crossed my mind to get the 400 and just immediately avail of the Komo tec 460hp kit, but how that will fare in our tropical weather is anyone's guess.

By the way, I just wanted to make it clear, that I'm not moving from an Exige to an Evora, I'm still keeping it and the only way I would sell it if I was upgrading to something like the 430. It's the M3 that I am selling for it

Hey guys, current 16' Sport 350 owner here and I've decided to sell my 17' M3 for an Evora. I've only test driven the 400 and 410 Sport, and I have found the difference of the two seemingly bigger than what is written on paper. The 410 felt a lot more responsive than 10hp largely due to the gearbox feeling like it had a software refresh. So either that is true, or the 400 I tested was not what it should have been. Of course let's get the obvious out of the way and I'll say that you do feel the 70kg or so weight difference as it's certainly more agile, aside from the suspension tuning being the obvious upgrade. Here are my options now though: 1) There's a 400 at the dealer that hasn't been sold yet, so I suspected that they'll let it go for about for about 140,000 Euros (take note that I got my Exige for 150k.) 2) Order a new 430 at about 250,000 Euros. Given that the new 430 much more than the price of the 400, would you say that it's worth going for that, or taking the 400 instead and upgrading it along the way? I will be tracking the car, no different from my Exige, so I wanted to get the Komo Tec 460 upgrade right away as I felt that the 400 I tried needed more power, which I should note that I felt differently about the 410, I was okay with it. But given the price of the Ohlins TTX upgrades and the other CF and lighter bits, I might just end up getting close to the price of a newer unit. Would love to hear from you guys especially those who have upgraded between the 400/410 to the 430. Thanks in advance

Thanks, will definitely let you know. I'm pretty sure it's the same design, unless they had a revision that I didn't know of. Please enlighten me though, what exactly happens with the de cat aside from throwing off the sensors? Living in a country where our regular temps are 35 degrees C, I was hoping to lower my temps as well.

Thanks for the inputs guys, we'll be checking these out soon and hopefully find the culprit.

Unfortunately we don't have a TechCentre here, the dealership actually just started two years ago and we are their first customers. I am not completely sure where the post cat sensors are specifically situated, I was just assuming that they were around where the length of the cats previously were. You are right, I did notice that I lost torque on the low end, but it was noticeably quicker past 210kmh.

Yes correct, we are going to check the current running through the extension cables soon. Re draining issue, when it was already at the dealer, all of a sudden it wasn't draining anymore, strange.

Hey guys, Wanted to ask for your inputs on what could possibly be the issue here. I'll try to make it as concise as possible. Last September of 2017, I had my manifold & cat changed to Larini, which I use with my Lotus sports exhaust. Around December, I had a premature failure on my clutch, so I brought it to the dealer to have it changed. As many of you guys know, it requires a whole lot of work including removing the clamshell and pretty much all the electrical connections, and the engine itself. When I got back the car, I was still breaking in the new clutch and taking it easy, and it was running great, although I never really tried to rev it past 4k. The only strange thing is that I would always get a CEL with a P0140 and 0141 code, where the oxygen sensors have no activity detected, which is strange because it didn't get it when I removed my cat and used 02 extenders, and was driving it very spiritedly and tracked twice for a few months. About 400kms in, when I had to brake suddenly one time, the car died on me despite being clutched, and would not restart right away. It took a few tries before it got up and running again. When I would try to start the car, it would just click repeatedly and the dash lights would flash faintly. This happened on 3 more separate occassions, with a third time being the worst. During the last time, the car just would not start. It's worth mentioning that I always use the car, and when I don't always have it hooked up to a battery tender. At that time, I had to call the dealer for assistance and the car basically shutdown itself. It would not even respond to the car remote to open the doors, and when they checked the charge at the posts behind access panel while we were trying to charge it, the voltage was going up and down. Finally after about 45 mins, the charge just suddenly went up and we were able to open and start the car. During those times I was getting these codes: P0685 - ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit/Open P0140 - 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0430 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2 So off to the dealer it went to check what was wrong with the car, and they said that they inadvertently put back the sensors the wrong way. The main problem was that after this, the car would NOT run fine anymore. It was misfiring on 4 cylinders and running very rich. We have tried changing the plugs, switching out the injectors and the oxygen sensors to another car, and they were running fine. Of course you can imagine that the dealer is now blaming the fact that it's running without a cat, even if they know that it was running fine for several months without it. They're also pretty much at their wits end and personally because the immobiliser was involved in the previous incident, I am beginning to think that the ECU or the wiring might be damaged in a way. They have tried checking the plugs, coil packs, injectors and the MAF. They are still however, getting a P0134 code. Any help would be greatly appreciated guys. Thanks in advance!

Barry, since I can speak Japanese I communicated with them directly. They specifically told me that if the car were to be used for the track, they will not sell me the exhaust because it will destroy itself due to the heat. The system sounds fantastic yes, which is also why i wanted one, but clearly this means that the incredible sound is from suppressing the air passing through it in such a way that is generating higher heat. Exercise caution with it.

Toxic Green

Completely forgot to post pictures as I've gotten them about 2 months ago. For everyone's reference, they are the RS31's in Brushed Black, which looks just that in the shade, and a little bronze under sunlight. 17x8 et25 and 18x10 et35.

Wow 9 hours from 30 or more is certainly a huge difference, so kudos to you guys for that. I was thinking of upgrading to the Evora 400 clutch as well, which I believe is the uprated AP Sportclutch sold by Komo-tec. Looks like it's gonna be a big job, for sure!

Hi Guys, I've been hearing that to change the clutch on our cars, you'll need to remove the clamshell as well as it isn't accessible from the bottom of the car? Also, that you'll need to disassemble practically most of the connections to get to it? I was thinking of upgrading my clutch since I track it fairly often and I was wondering about how big of a job this is.

Oh man, really sorry to hear about what happened to you. I do hope you get to sort everything out quickly.

I had the premature synchromesh grind issue going into 3rd, whether it was from 2nd or 4th. It was so frustrating that I thought it was already a gearbox issue. This was completely eliminated when I switched to Motul 300. That's what I'll probably use from now on.

I'm assuming that the AP Sport clutch is similar to what the Cup 430 is using?

On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being the easiest, how would you say the difficulty of the install is?