POD2100

Ok so no consensus just not RTV. I’ve Painted the exhaust cam cover with what looks like good results so I think I’ll try Wellseal which seams to have a good rep and easily obtainable. thanks for everybody’s opinions I’ll see how I get on if it doesn’t cure the leak I will have to look elsewhere for the issue.

I may or may not have a leak from the exhaust cam cover on my 87 TE HC, so I was gonna remove clean and paint. Ive a new cam cover paper gaskets but should I add sealant as well? I’ve looked at quite a few previous posts and there’s mixed views. People seem to have used RTV Silicone, Blue Hylomar, Wellseal and Permabond A136 is any one of these better for the cam covers than the others? Suggestions welcome as I’d rather get it right first time. Mark

Finally got round to removing the lift motor. Really silly fault the rectangular slot on the lift arm that locates on the motor had become oval. You had about 15 degrees of play on it so when the motor was pulling the light pod down gravity took over just before the motor stopped and the light fell the last CM or so. The play in the motor arm didn’t affect the raise at all, and I guess if the nut had been tighter it would also have been ok, The arm looked welded by a previous owner so it’s probably been moving around on the motor for a while. New lift arm and slight adjustment all good.

Yes but I’m not brave enough to open the instruments to remove filters. I’ve ordered a number of different types of LED so once they arrive I’ll decide if it’s worth any extra work for an increase in brightness.

Thanks Tim yes I would have thought they were green but as I was using white LED,s perhaps the filters were not green enough to make the smaller instruments look the same as the large ones. Paul my dash was exactly the same as yours so that’s why I was unsure, high brightness LED,s make a lot of difference but it’s getting all the clocks to look the same colour and perceived brightness. I’ve brought some COB LED bulbs that specify lumens so I have high hopes for a good improvement. Thomas I looked at your post and basically I’m doing the same the rheostat for the dash is intermittent / high resistance and I’m experimenting with a PWM controller an Amazon special, works well but they all appear to be positive earth so I’ve had to modify it as I don’t want to insulate the bulbs from ground. Really the two big clocks will be as bright as I can get them then all the smaller ones will be on the variable PWM supply to give appropriate brightness.

Silly question what colour is the instrument illumination on a 87 TE? I’ve removed the binnacle to get it re-trimmed and am looking at replacing some bulbs with LED’s. The tach and speedo would be green due to the filter inside the clocks, but the oil, temp etc don’t appear to have filters so would they have been green bulbs or just yellowish illumination from a white filament lamp? All the bulbs fitted at the moment are just white filament lamps including the fibre optic.

The only noise is caused by the speed at which the pod is falling when it comes to rest. There are no obstructions to the headlamp movement. if the motors are driven to close the pods rather than gravity then I guess it must be an electrical fault instead of a mechanical one like the nylon bobbin disintegration in the Elan M100 head a lamp motors. (That causes the lights to fall sharply or jitter when raising /closing)

The answer may be the motor requires service but- The left headlamp pod drops very quickly compared to the right when the lights are flashed or switched off, the pod makes a very audible bang when it closes and appears to bounce once before settling. Both sides raise fine (although the left slightly behind the right) and the right side lowers fine. Both pods sit flush in the down position. So my question is how are the pods damped when lowering down, if it’s controlled electrically is the fault likely to be the brass contacts in the motor not making contact after the motor is reversed? Thanks,

Red S4 ? esprit in Broadhall Way Stevenage 12.45 pm Saturday 10 sept. I was in the red Esprit turbo a few cars in front.

So if yours is an 87 model turbo and I’m reading the schematic right. the oil light only gets 12v over 1600rpm. so find the relay and on idle (assuming it’s a bit under 1600 rpm) I would expect to see nothing between the Slate colour wire and a good ground. when you increase the revs this should go to 12v When you drop the revs to idle you should have zero volts. if not the DECEL relay may have iffy contacts?

Yes the engine speed sense is done using the relay in the R/H rear arch. the throttle jack solenoid, is only there to raise revs when using air con and to lower emissions on the over run. When you blip it I would expect the revs to drop much slower than with the jack disconnected, however there is a procedure to set the amount the solenoid pushes up the throttle linkage. If the throttle jack is off on idle but functions with an increase in revs then it sounds as if the relay is working as I would expect.

As per Barry my 87 TE HC doesn’t activate the tell tail at idle. So low oil pressure at idle would only show on the gauge not the tell tail. Perhaps the DECEL relay or a dodgy connection between the coil and the relay ?

The red Esprit was mine. There was also a Yellow/cream coloured Elan Sprint in mint condition as well. Yes many many Granada’s, more than I thought were left on the road.

My new tanks are in I haven't put the balance pipe back yet so I've not tried to fill them and see which parts of the garage gets wet. I'm attempting the cam belt while I'm there and it looks easier without the balance pipe in the way. I read the lotus talk article very helpful. My left tank I did have to cut the spigot off and I also removed the valve cover and air intake ear. The right side came out without cutting I removed the air intake ear as well although I later found out it was not required. The tanks weren't that bad ☹️ although the R/H side was beginning to rust along the bottom seam.

Thanks good advice, unfortunately the tanks are not the banjo connectors so I was expecting there to be some spill when the pipes removed. Ill probably give it a go first without cutting the spigots off and see how it goes.