greekmix

Mino, I am from Greece originally leaving in Australia now. Apo nea filadelfia !!! Ok now the ares that you have shown collect dirt and oil from many years of use. I you have cleaned the engine bay well and you still seeing oil there I would start with replacing the rocker cover gaskets first then work on the ones below that at the head. However if these gaskets are bad I would expect more oil escaping. Golden rule " Clean the engine bay well to trace the leak" The oil pressure switch is under the manifold close to the oil filter and the knock sensor, its hard to see but it has two wires connected to it and some times they are loose. If you have a manual it will be easier to identify. The knock sensor has only one wire connecting to it and the oip pressure switch us almost next to it with two wires to it. If you need mre urgent help email me on info@lotusesprit.com.au PS: The castrol edge 10/60 is what I also use.. and I recomended as I have used it in my race days for years now.. make sure you replace it if you are from Athens every 6 to 8k

Mino, First a good bath (clean up) of the engine will help you to trace the issue with the oil. Maybe the cam cover casket is leaking. Make sure the oil presure switch wiring is good as some times the connectors are loose. I have seen this issue a few times. Kalo pasxa!! Tony

Here is the WC housing which was causing the performance issues. Comparing both WC housing and the factory one the diffrence of the inside diameter was close to 4mm. Sorry I cant provide anyone with the factory housing photos since this is now on the car. I have also noticed the bad edges on ther inside of the wall sticking out, I was expecting the inside wall to be as smoth as possible to improve air flow. This is a quality product issue... I suppose the car now should produce close to 270 BHP since on the dyno the MAT sensor went up to 66 decrease which robs power from the engine.

The untislip strip is there to secure your foot on the pedals. No trouble with sliping at all. What I ahve also noticed with the carpets the rubber flooring under the carbet which is not realy removable is also cracked at the position where your foot operates the petals. With this solution the floor is protected. In my car I had 2 sets of carpets per site before I decide to install this solution which I may say it appeals to me.

Tony, I was told that the WC turbo is a straight bolt on unit and it was very simular to the original. I assumed that it was an OEM. However going back to the installation I did I remember clearly two cosmetic diffrences. 1) the base of the housing could not eccomodate for the original safety pins or washers for the four bolts which holds the assembly to the manifold. 2) the outsite diameter of the WC housing was smaller than my original. This was discovered since I had to make up a special tool to get to the two bolts between the turbocharger and the engine. Putting back the WC turbo I had more clearance to get to the bolts since the housing was a little smaller. BINGO!!! I thought that was normal at the time but now that I am told the WC housing is definatly smaller than my original unit it make sence. I am getting the car back on the weekend and I will post this photos of the WC housing for you to see. JIM, This turbo has cost me $4000 Australian dollars with all the delivery checking and all the rest. I recon I will put it at the front of my house to hit my self on the head everytime I come home to remind me of this experiment. However is anyone wants it I will sale it for some normal price to cover the initial cost as I am looking now for the proper solution which will produce the requirmements wanted in the first place. I dont think anyone will pay any amount $$$$ to get back no benifits as its proven during this post. I would like to find a solution which will bolt on to the same car producing the power wanted, that way we will complete the experiment. For the last 5 months the car or parts of it was under question, I think I have done enough to prove the cause of the fault but I am happy to go to an extra step to complete this task properly and prove 100% that the car as is can produce up to 280 BHP. So beeing 4k over budjet I have to see my bank manager before I do anything else.

Chris, I has simmular fault including loose play on the gear knob assebly. I resolve it with the Gear lever & linkage which provides all needed nylon grommets. Read about it here.. http://www.lotusesprit.com.au/docs/Gearshi...r%20Kit%202.pdf

Guys, I contacted a local business to supply us with aluminium floor mats. The results was quite good. Here is the hand made units if anyone is interested.

These reports have been communicated with WC and John first of all. However its clearly that all the faults we had is from the turbo assebly only. John has exhausted the level of support that he can provide on the subject this he has not offered to replace faulty parts what so ever eg: watsegate caspule and turbo housing. I am a little dissapointed with the warranty received on the product and I will no longer entartain this product again. I know some of you may not had any issues with the WC turbo because you may also provided your housing for this upgrade which bypass all the issues we've have seen on this occation. In our case the turbocharger was a complete WC product as we did not request to provide a core unit as an exchange.. the results are clearly there. We have suffered a fault cause by quality control of this item howeber this could be a one off case which can happen some times. The solution is what matters in this occasion and this has not come from the area I was expecting.

Dear all.. As promised here are the results from the report the experts have provided regarding the lost of power of 30 HP from our last upgrade. Just to recup the boost fault as we point out on the forum earlier was found with the wastegate Capule. The second fault as the car never produced the power as per factory setup was the turbo housing as per report below.... At this stage I need to clarify that the stage 1 and 2 WC turbocharges I received were complete units and had no parts from my original core of housing turbocharger. Both units were complete WC products. Here is the report and if you are in Australia you will now find a turbocharger in my rubish bin outsite of my house........ At this stage for our customers in Australia who are asking questions I must say that we will continuew our search for the right product and I will be updating the group seperatly. THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR INPUT TO THIS INDEPENDENT REPORT Problem with vehicle

Matt, Those units are available check this page out for the part you need as I have done the same on my S4 showing as a project car on the site. http://www.lotusesprit.com.au/parts.htm

No modification have been done to the oil feed line. After all if the turbo is not prime properly or has a low level of oil feed it will not last long. Its basic practice now to allow 3 minutes idling to cool any turbo as far I am concern... I dont believe we have blow it up however there is got to be something wrong with its tollerance inside the housing not to produce the HP we need. But I wont speculate here lets see what we get with the factory unit back on... I will try to get the other graph info you need at the moment we are not producing the power so let sort this out. I would like to see 275 hp on the wheels and above for a turbo upgrade or an increase of 30+hp otherwise why bother!! Lets hope we get a solution we want ...

Tony the previous Dyno test from MPC on this post comparing the two turbocharges has got the information you want . You will also notice the car is running lean after 5k because of the standard fuel pump and secondary injectors. At that time it was an impresive car to drive this is the graph showing 247 bhp.... I hope you can work it out from my old post showing on a diffrent page on this post. I cant wait to see what happens when I but a stock turbo back on. The stock turbo is not all mine as the core section is coming form an SE model and I know for a fact the specs are a little diffrent between S4 and SE turbochargers. My original core was damaged on transit as what John has told me so this is not the same facrory turbo I had on the car which produced 250 BHP. However it will prove a point I hope !! stay tune here is what the original turbo produce before I took it off with the chip 6 PS: BY the way I have used all the space available 1000k to UPLoad on this forum so I am not sure how I can provide more images for all to see. Can anyone who looks after this topic help me with this

Mark, We cant hear the turbo spool down and I believe its litle hard to spin unusual for a ball bearing turbo but its not seem to be faulty. This is a long battle and I am going to find out what is causing all this? Like I said in the past the fault started when the turbo was replaced..... This fault will stay in history if the turbo is at fault... a few days to go and I will have that result, Stay tune...

Tony, This is a Horse power at the wheels and its been proven on the dyno as our project car is having one. here is the dyno test before and after the pipe... The car had 203 hp at the wheels with the stock pipe then we put the sports unit on and played with the chips see the link for the results with the sports pipe... POWER AT THE WHEELS NOT THE CRANK... http://www.lotusesprit.com.au/s4project/2Vs5_218_227hp.pdf

Ok mate I will wait for his email and more importanly the results from the factory turbo by next week.... By the way I have now done this turbocharger replacement a few times and got it down to 2.5 hours work including removing the boot floor.. No bad for a non mechanic experience...

Marcus, Once we prove that is the WC turbo is at fault I will do something about it no questions asked. As I have people in Australia wanting results. I am trying to stop sending back and forwards the assebly as I have done this with John a few times and has cost me almost another turbo in delivery. For you record delivery to US and back has cost me $700 dollars and I have done this four times now.. Steffen has suggested a solution which I will be happy to receive if the price is right please let me know what is your offer and please send me an email with what you believe we should do here. I would prefer to send the WC turbo back to john and receive some of the money back if it does not work. this turbo own me $3.5000 plus so I need to make the right decision as to where its going to go. I have to respect John's work and discuss this issue with him as well... if the turbo is at fault.

Guys, My initial thoughts are getting confrimed as the second opinion I received from another dyno expert performance firm I visited today. The tests performed today showed that the engine is not suffering from any timming issues, internal engine is found healty with no leaks, also tested the pipe pressure which provided a free flow reading at 1psi. Air induction was also tested and every part around the engine tested incuding fuel pressure, ECU, and wastegate capsule. The outcome I once again received was that the turbo housing must have a fault. This is the news that I have received from everyone who has seen the car and worked on it. After all the intial fault with the boost not been there was a part of the turbo as you can see from the post originaly, now that we have boost the turbo is not spinning to produce the HP. They believed that the ball bearing turbo should spin after the engine is switched off but they did not see this happening so the are very suspicious about the unit. The final test we have now to complete is to put back the factory turbo and test this myth. This is going to be hard to take as I had every faith in the WC product but I am now having second thoughts about this unit. This is now the second turbo we have received which behaved the same Here are the results from this dyno for some to see.

Marcus, Thank you for the tip once again.. I have read the section you are mentioning about.. As I said above I was aware of reseting the ECU by disconnecting the battery and sure the fuse is another way as you have mention. I was just making sure that is definatly the way. I have also done it by freescan but I see no diffrence. If you also folow the topic I am mentioning that I have replaced a complete ECM and tested all the chips from start to finish that we have from you. Do complete this tasks I need to reset or disconnect the system from the battery. I am at point that I need to make sure I am doing the right thing and provide accurate information to those who are trying to help including you.. However I dont have the tools to test the back pressure but I am seeing someone tomorrow who may be able to include this test for me also. PS: I am not a mechanic as you can tell and I am also learning as you did many years ago. So for us new into this game we require clear information to complete the task .. I can teel you I am not the only one looking over the car at this stage but I am sure with the right information we will achieve our goal some times may take a liitle more time thats all...... I will post some news as soon as I have done the test requested... Thank you for replying so fast on the topic.

Marcus, Can you or anyone out there please confirm how we do an ECU reset. As far as I am concern if I disconnect the battery the ECU gets reset ... please clarify this for me.. I must also say the Pipe from start to end is new only 2 months old and was checked as well.. If there was a block section on the pipe I shouls also be able to hear it ... Am I right ??

I agree Marcus. and thank you for the continuing help and advice ... I also belive the chip 6 used is the best so far I have tested so it should do the job well!! I am woking backwords now with all the last upgrades I have made. However the car will also be on the dyno and we will make the changes as we go. Its hard to test on the road as you can appreciate that. Tomorrows test will include. Leak down test Cam timing checking Wastegate capsule adjustment as per factory settings Fuel pressure test. and I have with me all the original parts in case we need to go back in time. I hope we can get to it and produce the power it should.

Tony, Thanks mate.. its a little diffrent the way freescan provides the info, maybe only a someone who known how to read it well may understand what I am trying to say. The support I have received its fantastic from you people and I will never forget this.. I am sure I will get to the bottom of this some day and we can all learn from this experience. Mark, The freescan log in not acceptable on this forum however the boost is available on the dyno graph I provided on this forum a little earlier. I will try to upload the fuel mixture as well very soon.

Let me clarify this. There is also a MAT V reading as well. But I am talking about the MAT and BARO columns which I was told the reading is represented as voltage and are next to eachother on the freescan file. However my Baro reading is always at 0.85 which is normal for Australia pressure and the MAT varies of cource to the maximum level of 2.24. By reading those columns of freescan (P and Q)I was told we can work out the boost the car is developing.... I have the freescan available if anyone would like to see this...

Guys, Here is an pipe we have developed and tested on a stock S4. Pipe is 2.75inc full stainless stell. This is a legal version for those countries that require to use the CAT in place. Here is a link with specs.. http://www.lotusesprit.com.au/s4exhaust.htm

Markus, Mark. Yes these are the Injectors used however the car is running rich across the rev range. I will try to get the fuel mixture from the dyno and posted up here for all to see. So the fuel pump should be ok them? Just for everyones information the Fuel pressure regulator is also new. I am just confused how come the map on the chip 6 was working fine apart from the top end rev range which was found lean with the previus run with the original turbo and now we get a very rich reading across the rev range? Marcus .... is we need to get a specialised chip are you able to program that?I will send you an email with the frescan for reference on the last runs

Artie. Our results then are similar till we replace the turbo so my engine should be healthy enough. I was getting a lot of knoking up to 150+ however but the freescan never retarded the engine as the knocking were showing high from idle. Since then I replace the sensor and at the moment its running at 5 to 7 knocks still showing the numbers at idle and never changes. This is a mystery as the timing has not changed. regarding the last run I was told the car is running very RICH accross the rev range and i dont have a fuel issue any longer the lean fuel issue was seen with the standard turbo and standard injectors and pump. I believe fuel is no longer the fault. Timming maybe ???? I have been told from John@ wWC that now the car does not over boost... However my freescan is showing me MAT votage reaching at 2.24V so with my calculations if I take the .85 Baro from this number I end up with 1.39Vwhich should euqual to 1.3bar or so... Am I right here? This car should be producing up to 1.25 the number I got is higher than that... Thats what I know so far.. I am having another dyno run and also a leak down test done on the engine and checking the timing as well this week. I will post all the info I have and thank you all for helping out!!!!! Tony Mark, I am little confused where did you see the car is now running lean? remember the BOV is been removed and put back on with no diffrence after all its new and has been also tested. The fuel Pump is also just put in with the secondary injectors. The turbo has been checked two times by WC and its works ok. My feeling is with the boost control or wastegate capsule, once again I dont think I got this capsule working right and the combination with rich fuel. If anyone know how to fix this I would be a very happy man !!! Guys, Speaking with Marcus he has pointed me to the fuel issue as the car is running rich... since the car after the secondary Injectors and fuel pump we have noticed running rich and in some cases very rich. I have installed a WALBRO GS342 fuel pump which I believe providing more than 255 ltr / Hour. Could this cause an issue? See link http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21Y5QBBA5ZL.jpg I was under the impression that the regulators is controling the fuel as long as there is enough presure available. The manual says that the pressure must be 420 KPA at the rail but does not say if it can go over that what happens.... Maybe we have more than one fault here ... can anyone show some light to this question?