DrRick

@GRP, do you therefore need: One per lamp for the indicator circuit One per lamp for the brake circuit i.e. 4no resistors all in? Rick

Likewise, my replacement vehicle has four silver circles. But as you can see from lower right, its had some 'assistance'. I needed to free some funds for some building work. Absolutely nothing against the Evora. I'll be back in a Lotus one day, that was my second one after all. So I'm now tootling around in an early 2010 S3 with a Revo Stage 1 + intake and a chunk of ££ in my pocket. Low mileage Aberdeen car (I.e. pristine service history and low wear). Sorry @Barrykearley

For the mods: I have no ‘interest’ in this car any more. My old car is no up for grabs at a dealership in Lancs: https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/lotus/evora/evora-v6-4-coupe-3-5-manual-petrol/8439275 Looks good, but they’ve missed a few details, like its a Kenwood stereo, the Ali bargeboards, the 2ubular 3rd cat delete. it was due a service in a couple of k-miles, and given the previous full Lotus history, that’d be where I’d look first. Clutch was good when I had it, but mileage / age / nervousness means it may happen soon. But hey, there are the fun elements!

When you say that you have a flasher relay already installed, I think that is where we have a difference. The Evora doesn't have a flasher relay as such, it has a control box of some sort. At least that is where the clicks come from when I push the indicator one way or another. Did you not get the hyperfast flashing of the indicator? Or do you mean that you had an LED compatible relay already installed?

@ArthouseCompany, right, you seem to be a man to ask.... So, your Exige V6 S has the same OEM lights as my Evora despite the age gap. You have the separate indicator halogen bulb in the centre, right? And, you simply unplugged your OEM lamps, removed them, plugged the GRP one's in and away you went? No resistors, right? The discussion over resistance I've been having with Greg essentially boils down as follows (across the ground and turn (green) wires): OEM (US market): 11.04 ohms GRP (no resistor): 1.48 ohms OEM (EU market - mine): 1.1 ohms GRP (inc 6ohm resistor): 6.2 ohms Gregs latest suggestion is to run the GRP without resistors and see whether the warnings I was getting come back. Anyone else any suggestions on the basis of those readings?

I didn’t find an online vendor that’s seems to Ben able to accommodate the full current uk reg format, but shrink the plate background somewhat. And not charge you £75 a pair for the privilege. https://replacement-number-plates.com/plate-maker/#!designer They talk about the Oblong UK plate being 520mm x 111mm, and then give an option of a 460mm, or 424mm, or 406mm, by 111mm to name a few. And they move the reference number thing to suit. Can’t quite work out yet whether the 460mm wide would leave sufficient border to be OK. I have no 1 or I to worry about either.

Gee thanks @Bibs, not sure I can get that sort of 'present' past The Boss. And I don't feel a day over 30. WOULD SOMEONE PLEASE TURN THAT MUSIC DOWN ------ IT'S TOO LOUD!!

@astirling, not had the time yet to be honest. I've gone back to OEM what with the weather being what it is - I'd rather not have any issues with Stability Control while there's snow and ice on the ground. I do have a multimeter that I need to use on both my OEM lamps and the GRP setup as I have them, then I''ll compare notes with Greg.

@Neal H, see, I think this is one reason that I'm just going to stick with the standard plates. I even saw a post on Pistonheads from someone who's wife got stopped by the Police on the premise that their plates were illegal (from FourDot) despite them being legal, and all the palava that they had to go to to avoid court / get the fine rescinded. If I'm doing 70miles a day, potentially 5-days a week, the likelihood increases of coming across a Police 'intervention' that I'd like to avoid.

Not sure I can be bothered now I think about it. Traffic Taliban up here in Scotland would probably be all over it if they get a chance, and given my mileage I reckon I'd come a cropped sooner rather than later.

Anyone running’s a smaller UK front plate? If so where did you source it from? And have you had any issues with running it?

Look, I think people are doing the whole storm in a teacup thing. At the end of the day he has no vested interest in the car any more - he's already PX'd against a Golf GTi. So, he's just like anyone else and pointing out a car he's seen for sale for the benefit of others who may be looking. As has been noted GTi World is not a common avenue for selling our types of cars. Let it go.

Quartz Silver on a 59-plate (Dec 2009) car....

Haven't tried the no-lamp situation. I'll give that a go next time I get a chance. I'm getting quite adept at swapping the lamps out.

I've got some resistance readings now from Greg, so I'm going to take equivalent ones from my OEM lamps and GRP lamps and see what's what. Warning lights come on irrespective of lamp status. Temperatures - the resistors are currently NoNails taped to the back of the lamps, not in the boot itself. I could change that of course. Greg seems to have taken this up as a challenge too, he's not seen these reactions anywhere else. All this means however is that I've probably done something stupid down the line. The noise thing could be an interesting one, but it's the TPMS sensor that's furthest from the lamps that is most affected. I'm thinking that somewhere deep down in the wiring / controls that the indicators / TMPS / Stability Control share a module. It's only logical. It's also only logical that the difference between the lamps has caused the issues, so if I can identify that, then I can get a fix in place.