S2111S

I guess the alarm activates because the access panel is off. Push down on the switch to see if it stops sounding. Standard Elise batteries won't do well over winter unless on a battery conditioner. Once you have a little bit of charge back in the battery the car should respond to the fob.

Assuming what you've been told is true see if you have a fuse in 22 which is the CDL circuit. It needs a 7.5 amp fuse. If you have one then see if you have wiring and lock actuators in the doors.

Higher. Behind the air vent.

Just pull harder from the bottom. The sealing foam tends to get sticky.

111S has the Rover engine. 111R onwards for Toyota. This will give a good overview until the recommendations start coming in..... https://www.evo.co.uk/lotus/elise/15927/lotus-elise-s2-buying-guide

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Petrol_Cap This explains the repair should you not want to buy new from Elise Shop. If you scroll to the bottom there's some options for removing the spinning cap.

Probably not but only you can decide. What fault required the change? They did the work so they must know. Make an offer that takes your concerns into account?

https://youtu.be/R9gbncMTUiw https://youtu.be/nhg9p8eVgUg https://youtu.be/_Pq0iuBvWiY

For the S2 yes, that's correct.

S2 K Series

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Remove_S2_Dash_Top

Faulty catalytic converter, faulty O2 sensor (there are two) or exhaust leak.

The Elise is an easy daily. The Toyota engine has a simpler service schedule and is considered bullit proof if looked after and the 6200 rpm cam change seems very popular. It carries a price premium. I don't find the K any less reliable if looked after. The K head gasket might fail but it also might not. £500 and half a day by a specialist on your drive and it's good for life. Mileage seems indefinate for either car if looked after and respected. Having driven my K daily for three years I now know that I'd reach 6200 so rarely on public roads that the Toyota would be wasted on me. I'm not saying it's not possible, just that I'd feel like a dick driving it on cam on public roads. Others might find it easier. Motorways might be an exception but the K is plenty fast enough anyway. It might be a false perception of mine but I feel that a daily driven Elise is more reliable than a summer only pride and joy. The front of the Elise takes a bit of a bashing from stones and this is made worse on a daily so don't worry too much about front end condition when buying. If it's concourse when you buy then it won't be for long unless you fit protection film. Regardless of engine type an aluminium radiator is good. The standard rad has plastic ends. The heater resistor pack will fail quicker on a daily. It controls the three heater fan speeds. If any of the speeds don't work it's on its way out. Simple to change for an upgraded unit but only once the front clam and heater has been removed. A stainless steel tow post is necessary. That's a clam off job too. A later K and all Toyota cars will have air-con. Good for cooling the cabin but also, more importantly for a daily, clearing the winter condensation. The heater fan will need to be working for the air-con to work properly. I had AD07 tyres for two winters which coped surprisingly well on snow, if I wasn't on a gradient, but I now have all-season tyres. They don't stop me doing anything I did with AD07s but then I'm more of a Jensen Button than a Max Verstappen. Some tyres can be a bit of a fashion statement on a car that won't see a track. In short, the Elise is a great daily for me. I can fit all my shopping in it as well as a passenger, the child seat gives my grandchildren a great view, DIY stuff fits in if I take a saw with me. What won't fit in I can get delivered. I can service it myself. If anything changes and I have to sell it the depreciation will be minimal and I might even be able to sell for slightly more than I paid.

Walk away if that's all you have to go on. There could be any number of costly problems with it. It needs a professional inspection to answer your question. Try....... Autohaus Haese GmbH Autohaus Ulmen GmbH Automobile-Muller e.K Exklusive Kollektion GmbH Lotus Leipzig Merz & Pabst GmbH Rosenmaier Schuttenbach Auto Service Westside Cars GmbH

Lotus supplied the Spider wheels in Silver and Hi Power Silver. I think Silver was a change for the 111R due to matching issues with the Hi Power. The Hi Power finish can't usually be matched. Maybe you could do a front and rear and have them on the same side and it wouldn't notice. Probably best just to get all four done. Lotus suggest Specialised Paintwork, 01189 306206.

This is where @jonnyboy got a repair. Perhaps send them photos for an initial opinion? https://www.multicare.org.uk/

No, nothing to do with the dampers. Check toe link rubber covers.

Remove the mirror housing and check the spring.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f25/chronicle-honda-k-series-swap-98306/

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Bonnet_won't_open_(S1)

S2 - 7.5 x 17 rear S1 - 7 x 16 rear S1 - 7.5 x 16 rear on 111s and Type 49 This info is quite common on the internet..... Lotus reduced the front downforce and the rear lift on the S2 to achieve almost neutral balance which delivers consistant handling balance at all speeds, while the S1's high front downforce and rear lift contributed greatly to the cars tendancy to oversteer at high speed. It could be argued that reducing downforce is a retrograde step and that leaving the front in S1 configuration and then increasing the rear downforce further to achieve a Clr in the region of -0.3 would generate more lateral rip, but testing showed the drag penalties associated with doing so were unacceptable. The roof of the S2 was lowered to also improve the quality of air flow over the rear of the car and hence make any rear spoiler more efficient. The Elise S1 111S and Sport 160 spoiler efficencies were reduced by the higher roof line.

There's a shroud for £150 and a couple of wing mirrors. Centre consoles appear regularly.

All of these are available secondhand on EBay.

https://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f322/switch-pack-module-repair-how-313433/#/topics/313433

Good to have a diy go at corner weighting but it's only going to cost about £65 to get it done professionally, especially if geo is being done at the same time.