Bulletmagnet

Hey hamza, Yeah the magcode is a great solution, however my first one got water in it and failed. Think I may have been a bit enthusiastic with a jet washer in that area…lesson learned. I bought a new one, stripped it apart and then rebuilt it with a silicone adhesive smeared around any possible water ingress points…all good now.👍🏼 It was about an hours work to feed the cable through to the battery and cable tie it all neatly. Yeah ramps will help access, but you can actually reach everything you need with the car on the ground. Glad this thread is still helping people😀

Yep, just read further on Mark, sorry it’s a bit long winded👍🏼

Yeah I looked at that, but it’s 14 pages of blurb about a product that’s no longer available (the Radium) and then a bit more history regurgitated. I did ask some fairly specific questions. I’m particularly curious if H111 have ever sold one of their systems for the S? Would love some real customer feedback... Maybe I’ll start a new thread after all...🤔😀👍🏼

Just resurrecting this thread rather than start a new one... I like the idea of a CAI on my Evora S, mostly for enhanced intake/supercharger noise but also to tidy up the engine bay and make air filter cleaning/replacement easier. If I get a few gee gees as well, that’s fine👍🏼 I’d buy the Komotec one on Hangar 111, as I like the idea of the filter being in a casing to protect from engine bay heat...but it’s crazy expensive. Does anyone actually have one fitted that could vouch for it’s effectiveness/sound/performance...just to try and justify the price? Any better pics than on H111? ES Motorsport say they do one with a HKS filter, but no pics...anyone got one of them? @alias23 Any news on a kit for the Evora S? I’d potentially be willing to be a guinea pig...

Cheers Gavin, no shots fired! Yeah Halfords can sometimes be useful😂🤷‍♂️

I had this problem and described how to fix it in depth here: Most likely need your boot latch position adjusted with washers to make sure the arm on the end of the cable hits the latch accurately. You do NOT need to yank hard on the emergency release cable. (I keep seeing this being repeated on forums🙄). When you look at how it works you will see that it’s actually quite a delicate mechanism that just needs lining up correctly. Yanking or tugging on the cable will likely damage some part of the system and then you’ll be paying lots to fix it. Gavin’s advice is excellent too, taking the slop out of the system and lining it up properly is all that’s needed.👍🏼

Yep this was picked up on mine at last mot. Ive also fixed it by protecting with braided fuel line cable tied in place...now just a case of monitoring and replacing fuel line as required...

Cheers Paul, will check that out...it might be my best option👍🏼

Thanks Cocopops, That explains the C prefix then.👍 I found a post of yours on SELOC on the same subject from 2016, but couldn’t reply to it as it was archived. Did you ever find a touch up paint in C114? It sounds like a 3 stage/layer process, so how is that achieved in a little bottle of touch up paint?!🙄

Hi everyone, I’m trying to buy some touch up paint for my car, to use before it has a polish and ceramic coat. It’s a 2014 Evora. According to the VIN plate AND confirmed by Andy Graham from the Lotus Archives, it is Solar Yellow C114. It’s a metallic colour. I did some digging and found that Solar Yellow is often given 2 different codes, B114 & C114. Some websites seem to think this is the same colour. So unable to find any C114, I bought some touch up paint in B114 from Hangar 111. However it is a solid colour and my car is definitely a metallic. Marianne at Hangar 111 kindly offered to take it back, (but I’ve kept it for now as I may still have a use for it). They don’t do C114. So it would seem that Lotus switch back and forth between solid and metallic versions of the paint whilst still calling it Solar Yellow.😠 Does anyone else have a metallic Solar Yellow C114 car and if so did you manage to source the correct touch up paint and if so where did you get it?! Cheers, Lee

I can’t advise personally as I’m no expert, but give the chaps at Photonic Universe a bell...they were friendly and knowledgeable, so should be able to help. Happy customer here 👍

So I’ve finally got the solar panel setup on the roof of the garage and all hooked up through a breaker and solar charge controller. I got all this stuff from Photonics Universe, they have a great range of stuff and a very helpful chap called Tom gave me advice on what to go for: https://www.photonicuniverse.com As my garage roof is in dappled shade most of the time, I went for a German made 40w panel, which is probably oversized for the task, but will make sure I get a decent amount of current when the sun is on the panel. If your situation was in full sun, you could probably make do with a 10 or 20w version. https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/13-40W-12V-solar-panel-with-5m-cable-German-solar-cells.html This is routed through a circuit breaker to the charge controller. I went for a decent spec’ controller with a lcd display and usb outlets, which will come in handy: https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/22-10A-12V24V-solar-charge-controller--regulator-with-LCD-display-and-powerful-dual-USB-output-24A.html After marking out the position of the panel on the roof, I drilled the required 8 holes and then mounted it with some dome head m6x50mm bolts so it can’t be removed from the outside. The bolt holes were sealed with a black Geocel adhesive sealant applied both under the feet of the bracket and between the bracket and bolt heads. Had some pretty heavy downpours since and no leaks inside🙂: https://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-sealant-adhesive-black-290ml/66022 Here is the panel in position: The breaker and solar controller mounted on the wall beside the rear of the car: And then the charging cable leading down to the Magcode connector under the diffuser: The hookup is always: battery connected first, then throw the breaker on to start charging. The controller needs to initialise first when connected to the battery, then you can pump some sunlight into it. Driving away is: breaker off, then disconnect the Magcode. Hope this is useful to anyone else faced with my issue of no mains power in the garage. 👍

Thanks for your inspiration Chad 😀👍🏼

So this how it looks with the diffuser back in place: And here it is with the cable from my solar charger connected: The great thing about this connector is the simplicity of it. It only lines up in one place so you can’t do it wrong, which is great as you can pop it on without having to get down on your hands and knees...AND the magnet actually switches it on inside the plug so it’s essentially dead when disconnected.👍🏼 Next post will be some solar panel fun, which hopefully will be useful for anyone away from the mains like me...

I installed the Magcode with about a foot of spare cable. This allows the diffuser to be dropped and the connectors easily removed (just got to remember to tell that to any mechanics working on the car in future). It’s then routed up through a hole in the chassis structure, where the slack foot of cable neatly stows, then up into the left rear wheel arch. I protected the cables with the braiding and put some heat shrink sleeves on the ends to neaten it up. Then in through the grommet to the battery compartment where I connected my fuse carrier and hooked it all up to the battery. No need for the braiding in here...I couldn’t get it through the grommet anyway.