strat10

I had the dreaded winking headlights happen to me the other night. Drivers light pod would try and come up, but never would make it. Pulled the motor out. Getting it out wasn't very hard. opened the motor up, and saw this.... Got a rebuild kit from here: http://rodneydickman.com/product_info.php?products_id=363 I didn't have to remover the actual motor, I was able to get the nylon gear out by using a vice, and a lot of wiggling Nice kit. Got everything back together! Here is what I learned: Drivers side: 1. Remove the brace that holds the brake booster in place. It will save your forearm! 2. Replace the rubber stops for the motor arm near the front of the car. These were worn on mine, and it was catching the arm, causing the lights to stay up. I actually made my own. 3. You don't need to remove the motor/worm gear to get the old nylon gear assy out. It will come, just grab the spindle in a vice and wiggle, 4. Pay attention to the washers that come out. Passenter side: 1. Much easier to get the gear Assy out. It slides out opposite from the drivers side. 2. Move the A/C condenser out of the way by removing the braked, also, slide the washer fluid reservoir up and out. In general: 1. Take the time to clean out the pod drain. Mine were clogged, and made a headlight bath. 2. Take the time to adjust tighten the hinges of the pods. Don't make them to tight, and make sure your lights are not hitting the body of the car. (mine were) Its a very fiddly job, but grab your 10mm wrenches and you should be good to go.

I painted the lower front lip black and installed it. I think it looks pretty good.

1995 S4S

I did notice that the High BLM numbers corresponds with very low MAP numbers, is that the engine restricting Boost? I do peg the MAP at 2.24 for a short period. I also have the Red ship installed.

Hello everyone, I finally got my data logging working, but the program Does crash a lot, ill have to figure that out. I was able to get a quick run logged. It was a pretty spirited run, and I have looked over the data and had a concern about the BLM and the O2 numbers. The O2 seems to be all over the place, and the BLM is hitting 155. From what I read that would mean a lean condition. The car feels good, and is pulling hard. I did replace the O2 sensor and put in a high flow cat about a month ago. I got both from PNM parts. I just replaced the Fuel pump a month ago also. I am attaching the log. Thank you very much! This site has been invaluable for me and my S4S! s4s33.csv

Did that go on with tape, or did you use fasteners?

I live like 10 miles from PBC, and I have seen the CF lip. its a nice piece, but i've dumped about $8000 getting this car on the road, so i'm going to wait on spending the $500 for a lip. Besides, one whack on parking stop, and all that Carbon will go crunch..... I agree, the Rhino site is weird, but it seems legit. They already shipped it, so it will go on this weekend. Ill update this thread with the results. I ordered a roll of mesh to make the grill. We shall see... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LC6TQFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just ordered the Rhinolip. I figured for $33.00 it was worth a shot. Ill let you know how it goes/looks.

Did I miss where you got the hoses from?

that sucks

Thanks everyone, I think it came out great. The lower lip is not required, and Im not sure Ill put it back on. Ill be looking around for some alternatives. This looks interesting: https://www.rhinolip.com I also needed to take off the grill, and I dont think that will go back on, so I need to replace that. I may just get some grill material and make one. The actual fix was actually very easy. I just removed the grill, and cut 2 strips of this: Took both strips and sandwiched the warp, but only glued the bottom strip using this: I used several clamps, and waited till the glue dried. You can clearly see the warp.

My S4s has had a messed up grill for a while now. I finally got around to fixing it by glueing a piece of ABS plastic under the lip to straighten it out. Now I need to figure out the grill, and the lower Lip. Looking for options. Before After

I am trying to get a good catalog system going on my Esprit. I am a MAC guy, but I found that I can get the older Surface pro tablets at a pretty cheap price. Has anyone gotten them to work with the scan tools? Thanks

I have the PUC #6 chip in now. The biggest change I can feel, is that it gets rid of a slight hesitation at around 3000 RPM. The car pulls hard. I don't have a very heavy foot, so, I don't see me hitting full boost all that often, but its good to have it incase a M3 wants to play.

Looks like the error I was getting was a ECU error. Took out the ECU and it looked like someone had tried to modify the chip, and did it very badly. I put in the PUK performance chip, and problem solved. I had originally replaced the performance chip with a stock chip that came with the car when I bought it. Im a bit worried about running this performance chip. It is the #6 racing chip, im guessing not the best for daily driving. Maybe I should buy a tamer chip? b