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viz139

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  • Name
    viz139
  • Car
    82 Esprit Turbo
  • Location
    Ireland

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  1. LEDs do use much less current and so create less of an arc. If the bulbs are ok , I don't think Brake light switches are an issue with Esprits so just using a better quality one may solve the issue.
  2. Capacitors are used for both radio interference suppression and arc prevention in switches. In audio systems the capacitor is generally found in the radio supply cables or around the ignition system ,the most common source of interference. It looks to me that your car may have an on going problem with burning out brake light switches and a previous owner may have fitted it to help prolong the life of the switch ( which has failed again). It sounds like an overload on the brake light circuit or poor quality switches. Check the wattage and voltage of your brake bulbs and by any chance has a third ( high level) brake light been added?
  3. The automatic adjustment is done by pressing the brake pedel very hard several times. If the pistons are fully retracted this may take several pushes.
  4. I changed the red hose on my '82 Turbo ,it is inside the chassis.
  5. A leak down test would pin point a valve problem fairly quick.
  6. The adjustment comes from pressing the brake pedal not pulling the handbrake leaver .
  7. If it is M10 than it should be easy enough to drill out the Esprit clevis arm and re thread to M10
  8. Girling Supervac 50 is a range of servos with slightly different mounting and connecting options. They are all 9" diameter sealed units. The Girling Part No. seam to always start with 7404**** They come in at least two different stud patterns and several different clevis pin attachments . If you look at the picture on the PMN servo you will see were they have added an adapter plate to change the stud pattern from what is probably a Landrover servo. https://www.pnmparts.co.uk/esprit/esprit-s3-turbo-80-87/esprit-s3-turbo-80-87-j/lotus-servo-6080 The clevis pin adapter on the Esprit attaches to the Supervac on a 5/16UNF rod, does anybody know what the is thread on ST2878 ? I created this from my own servo
  9. I am also looking for a new servo for my '82 Esprit Turbo. Info I have found so far Lotus No. A075J6080F Girling No. 74049019 superseded by 74049164 It is a Girling Supervac Type 50 9" Fitted also to early Excel and late Eclat '86 UK Ford Capri Lazar 2 lt but with a different connecting rod to the peddle. '83-'89 Land Rover County 110 Non-ABS but with a different stud mounting pattern ( earlier models with 7" servo have same pattern)
  10. The fluid seal between the piston chamber and handbrake lever is under the automatic adjuster, the seal under the lever is more of a dust cover. The kit I got from SJ contained the wrong size seal for this and I haven't been able to source one yet.
  11. I don't know if it is the same on the S2 but my Turbo has a Resistor Cable Pink/White that you will find at the coil.
  12. I think its the same as the 82 Turbo caliper. The Girling number for the caliper carrier is 67320103
  13. Remove the spring and this will allow the lever to move a few mm out of the caliper. It gives a little more space to get the nipple through the hole. Personally I think its better to remove the calipers first. Disconnect the hose first then the 2 sliding pins. Remove the caliper and its easier to remove the cable last.
  14. You say the "thread" is damaged, this is not a thread , its a ratchet. If you insert the piston and turn it 45 degrees it will not go in any further but it will pull straight out. I have found it very hard to get any information on these calipers never mind parts.
  15. Gota stop buying old things, so went from my 1892 house back to my 1982 Esprit at the weekend. Problem appears to be sorted but haven't had a long drive yet. I have updated the diagram I did earlier to show the lost motion which is omitted in the workshop manual , couldn't figure that out for a while. The problem arrears to be the red rubber grease. When assembled with the grease the piston slides through the seal with little or no friction for the seal to retract the piston. I cleaned all the grease off everything and assembled only with brake fluid , I now have a retraction of 0.1mm - 0.15mm and after a few drives around the yard the brakes are not locking. Need to go for a long drive next. One problem I still have is that one of the handbrake seals is leaking slightly. These are the old ones as they were different size to the ones that came in the kit. Has anybody got experience of replacing these seals.
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