Gray14

V nice condition Yellow S1 Eclat on eBay, offers around £8,450. Owned 20 years by seller, immaculate half leather interior https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226258995823?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=7bec39673e204040ad9842474a4a10d1&bu=43203919680&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20240725031746&segname=11021

'Scuse me jumping in, just been looking at this on mine, and have pics, below plug and socket. Live adjacent the square bit.

Picture from Sunday’s Historic Lotus Register’s annual gathering at Albury End, near Bishop’s Stortford, Herts. 80 Lotus cars dating from 1950s to 2024 with 150 attendees. Many thanks to Richard, Nigel and others for organizing this enjoyable event. Click the pic to improve the image

Thanks Pete and Filip. Found a picture showing the location of the block drain/blanking plug located below the exhaust manifold at the rear of the block, looks hard to access. Read on a Jensen Healy post that this is 0.64 inches between Hex sides. Location shown in pic:

Can anyone tell me if the cabin heater return hose is the best one to disconnect to drain coolant out of the bottom half of the engine block or is there better hose to disconnect. TIA Graham

"Another small problem now I’m driving. Indicator lights on dash , on my setup the steering wheel blanks them out." Same with the 2.2s. I plan to piggy back 2 LEDs to indicator dash lights located somewhere visible.

B Team Racing and the Chotus are hitting the media big time this side of the Pond, featured in the current Absolute Lotus and Practical Classics UK.

Copied from a post here, on Face book this moment: https://www.facebook.com/groups/lotuseliteeclatexcel/?multi_permalinks=7298937490193644&notif_id=1710184925757293&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif Dagfinn Topland The thick red cable goes to B+. I strongly recommend the screw terminal marked B+. The two big pan one smaller spade terminals is also for connecting the dynamo. The thin wire, appears to be the yellow one going into the old alternator is D+, or more commonly referred to as the charge warning lamp. The thick black cable is your ground wire. Connect it directly to the bracket of the alternator.

Or you could get the conversion kit from the web address above and save some money for other bits

Just cleaned my battery posts and inside of the connectors with abrasive paper and noticed a higher rate of charge showing from the alternator.

Is the pump the contact points type that click when you turn the ignition on. These are prone to need maintenance ,but I like mine as it's give an audible check that it's working and when the clicking stops you know the carbs are primed. Conversion kits are available to change to these to more reliable fully electronic, solid state (?) versions. https://sucarb.co.uk/su-fuel-pumps-spares.html YouTube how to videos here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=SU+pump+overhaul+mgb+ After I overhauled mine I found I had dislodged the earth connection.

Read recently: no choke, 3 pumps on the accelerator, which is what I've been doing, but it is a good starter.

This one ?

Flagging up the need to remove the explosive gases and residue inside the tank before doing any welding. Mike Brewer (on Wheeler Dealers ?) did a feature on repairing holes in rusty petrol tanks, taking it to a specialist. It might be on YouTube, with lots of others.

The graphics panel is standard on the S2.2s and early Excels. It's screen printed white, red, blue and black on the reverse side on a clear plastic sheet. Surface is textured to be non reflective, but can get non reflective surface with a fine abrasive on the surface. I'm going to fit some LEDs to the switch lights as the fibre optics are a nuisance to fit.