Gray14

B Team Racing and the Chotus are hitting the media big time this side of the Pond, featured in the current Absolute Lotus and Practical Classics UK.

Copied from a post here, on Face book this moment: https://www.facebook.com/groups/lotuseliteeclatexcel/?multi_permalinks=7298937490193644&notif_id=1710184925757293&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif Dagfinn Topland The thick red cable goes to B+. I strongly recommend the screw terminal marked B+. The two big pan one smaller spade terminals is also for connecting the dynamo. The thin wire, appears to be the yellow one going into the old alternator is D+, or more commonly referred to as the charge warning lamp. The thick black cable is your ground wire. Connect it directly to the bracket of the alternator.

Or you could get the conversion kit from the web address above and save some money for other bits

Just cleaned my battery posts and inside of the connectors with abrasive paper and noticed a higher rate of charge showing from the alternator.

Is the pump the contact points type that click when you turn the ignition on. These are prone to need maintenance ,but I like mine as it's give an audible check that it's working and when the clicking stops you know the carbs are primed. Conversion kits are available to change to these to more reliable fully electronic, solid state (?) versions. https://sucarb.co.uk/su-fuel-pumps-spares.html YouTube how to videos here: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=SU+pump+overhaul+mgb+ After I overhauled mine I found I had dislodged the earth connection.

Read recently: no choke, 3 pumps on the accelerator, which is what I've been doing, but it is a good starter.

This one ?

Flagging up the need to remove the explosive gases and residue inside the tank before doing any welding. Mike Brewer (on Wheeler Dealers ?) did a feature on repairing holes in rusty petrol tanks, taking it to a specialist. It might be on YouTube, with lots of others.

The graphics panel is standard on the S2.2s and early Excels. It's screen printed white, red, blue and black on the reverse side on a clear plastic sheet. Surface is textured to be non reflective, but can get non reflective surface with a fine abrasive on the surface. I'm going to fit some LEDs to the switch lights as the fibre optics are a nuisance to fit.

The original 3 filament bulbs in the heater control panel on my Eclat 2.2 didn’t emit much light to the graphics, so I looked at improving it using LEDs. My 1st attempt replacing the original 3 filament bulbs with LED bulbs improved the amount of light but it was not even across all the graphics. After finding and repainting a spare panel I looked at using some of the LEDs on a roll which can be cut to the length required, sold on Ebay. I decided on the layout to give the best light behind the graphics, cut the strip to the lengths needed and soldered wires to continue the circuit at the at the corners, shown here/above. The strips are held in place by the sticky tape on the back of the LEDs.

Just found the problem of the heater control being stuck on hot was because the cable/rod was stuck in the plastic cover by a congealed substance, probably very old grease. Stripped it out and cleaned the cable and cover and it's working great.

Last MoT'd 2015, 6 clear passes in years before then.

Yellow Eclat S1 on eBay, v cheap, £2000 ono, stalled resto, good body, wheels and tyres, steering wheel https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266522871318?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l3160&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=87c83701db8044da86e8c3cad4991bf6&bu=43203919680&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20231122034555&segname=11021

Elite, Eclat, Excel, Esprit air box for sale on eBay, starting price £20 +£8 p+p https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/355191647292?hash=item52b3126c3c:g:axoAAOSwAP1lUmM2

Richard, just seen this and I've just responded to your question in Terry's (Benco's) post above, below: Terry's sent me some gearstick pics which shows the Getrag gearbox uses these bushes, made by Edelschmiede, who reference them as for Getrag 265 5. Their website address on top of image. Let us know how you get on pls. Thanks Clive, if you can check the above looks correct on your gearbox we'll have pushed things along.