DH2

Has it been code read to reach that diagnosis, or is it a guess?
I would expect ABS light on for a wheel speed not sensing.  ESP could be something else, commonly brake pedal switch.

P0014 is triggered by Bank 1 Exhaust Cam Sensor - so you're on the correct bank, but your circled part in the inlet cam sensor, you need the one in the cam cover on the other cam.
I'd say more likely to be an issue with the VVT solenoid than the cam sensor.
I assume you've tried clearing it... 

Evaporator thermostat in the heater box.  Not sure you can get to it on the V6 with the front clamshell on.
You can live view the evaporator temperature via Lotus diagnostic tool, which should confirm if that is the issue, before pulling the car apart.
Dave

All Exige had the newer parts fitted from factory as far as I am aware.  It was the Evora (with VINs as you have stated) that had the earlier type with the separate spacer/collar, that led to premature failures.  Certainly repaired a few on Evora, and none on Exige.
Dave

Could be ARB bush, they are quite common on Evora, but yours aren't very old.
So I'd also check other things, the ARB drop links, they can make a noise.  Balljoints can cause a knock, or even bushes. Or damper developed a knock.
Better to diagnose accurately before throwing parts at it.
Dave
 

Try to re-sync the fobs...
Press and hold both buttons on the fob until the LED on the fob stops flashing, and comes on solid.
Make a long press (1-2 sec) on the large button on the fob.
(Note, this is a method for the Elise, but same 6422 system)
Dave

Your car could be around the switchover (build date June 2016 on).  No labels were attached at the factory.  The service ports are different dimensions, so you can't, in theory, get it wrong.  Only way to know for sure is to look at service ports at rear of front right wheel behind arch liner.
Dave

It's the opposite of the information you have found.
In short, no it won't work. They will fit the hubs (assuming you are talking about S2 Rover), but the different offset, means they won't fit within the wheel arches.
Dave.

It is screwed to the dash on both sides.  So you need to remove the dash binnacle (to do which you need to remove the steering column shroud), and the airbag cover (need new clips).  You may also need to remove any head unit surround trim. Then just pull the central trim panel off with the vents.  Watch/listen out for tower clips disappearing into the dash, as they will rattle and roll around if you don't retrieve them.

Sorry didn't see this one first time round.
The 'actuator' you can see in the rear window is actually the bypass valve.  This opens when the engine is producing producing vacuum (idle and light throttle), to bleed off the boost created by the charger (spinning all the time driven by engine). If this is sticking shut, then the car will be running more boost than it wants at idle and light throttle, and therefore theoretically running lean.  The ECU will be attempting to compensate like mad by chucking fuel in.
The bypass valve is on a spindle that you'll see disappear into the charger.  There is a vacuum actuator attached to it - this is the round pot thing you can see with an arm on it, attached to the bypass spindle.
The vacuum actuator should be connected to the charger via a small hose, check that this is present and intact.  If you disconnect the actuator arm, you can double-check that the spindle is free moving (engine off!).  If you apply a vacuum to the hose, the actuator should open the bypass, and hold it open without a continuous vacuum.  If it returns to closed with non-continuous vacuum applied, then the actuator diaphragm has failed.
We may well have an actuator in stock, I can check tomorrow.
Dave