DH2

It turned into a nightmare job - can't remember if we had to take the gearbox out again to fix it, I'd blanked it out until you brought it up again. Can't remember exactly, but we had to spend a load of time getting the box to work properly again, possibly not related to the diff itself, but it is definitely on the never again list. I'm sure it's doable. Good luck!

There is a Quaife ATB LSD available for the U660E - we did one a few years - never again! Dave

We were approached by a company who were essentially looking to box shift Toyota engines. They were looking at fitting a Toyota to S1 Elise, and had purchased the cheapest Elise they could find (their words), and installed a 3ZR engine, adapted to the PG1 gearbox. This is basically the 2 litre version of the 2ZR Lotus put into the S3 Elise from 2012-on. We did a few bits on the car, including the exhaust manifold. It had some potential, but the time for engine conversions had passed, and was in decline, as cheap Elises became fewer, and the value of original cars increasing. My abiding memory is of the head gasket giving up on me somewhere near Oulton Park (as per photo, using shoes to let some heat out waiting for recovery). They had the car back after that, and that was the end of our involvement. I believe they fixed the engine and sold the car, which later re-appeared for sale a few times, and evidently at some point someone emptied their wallet into the bodywork.

If it's done 70k miles, then parked for 10 years, that'll be alot more than a weekends work!

1mm shim is approx 1/4 of a degree. You don't need to remove a wheel to swap shims.

Hi Keith. When the car won't restart, is it that it won't start at all? It sounds like it starts, then dies? How long will it run for? Sounds like it also did it from cold? Does it feel like it has plenty of cranking power? i.e. the engine turns over fairly lively, not sluggish. Slipping clutch only in the wet is a new one on me! Can't think how that might happen... Missing sealing boot on the clutch arm? Clutch arm or slave cylinder binding? Bellhousing drain hole blocked? Unfortunately these things can be quite tricky to diagnose remotely, unless they are giving very clear symptoms. Drop an email to Hangar re the inspection report. Dave

I inspected this car at Allon White for one of our customers - who opted not to purchase, obviously. I recall it drove nicely. Hope they gave it a good valet before you got it! Dave

Production spec S never had that rear diffuser arrangement. I'd bet it's an NA, unless it fell out the back door.

Spanner light indicates electrical fault that doesn't affect engine running or emissions, and will either go out straight away after starting engine (normal operation), or stay on for 30s to indicate a fault is stored. You need to read the code, but this may not be possible on generic OBD. Dave

P0014 is triggered by Bank 1 Exhaust Cam Sensor - so you're on the correct bank, but your circled part in the inlet cam sensor, you need the one in the cam cover on the other cam. I'd say more likely to be an issue with the VVT solenoid than the cam sensor. I assume you've tried clearing it...

Re the pins, looking at a car here, it might just be the angle of the image and the shininess of the paint, but worth a check. The spring 'ring' on the other end of the pin should be fully within the caliper body. You actually hear a change in note when tapping them in, as it bottoms out.

I would say they were originally black that had been painted red. Never seen any factory finished ones looking that bad. Please check that the lower brake pad pin (and possibly all the others) is fully home - doesn't look right in that photo, you should be able to see the end of the pin.

Has it been code read to reach that diagnosis, or is it a guess? I would expect ABS light on for a wheel speed not sensing. ESP could be something else, commonly brake pedal switch.

As stated in your links, the shockproof product line is desgined for dog boxes, it will not work with synchro box.

Understood. In that case, this thread is pointless, and just make sure the car is as Lotus spec Everything is somewhere on the compromise scale, it just depends where you want to be on that scale. The Cup does have a bit more standard geo than non-Cup. Still worth getting the ride height and geo checked, even if you stick to standard. I wouldn't be adding a load more power until you've used up all that you already have - go and do a season of track days first, and see where you think it lacking.