Web
Analytics Made Easy - Statcounter
randomusername - The Lotus Forums - Official Lotus Community Partner Jump to content


randomusername

Basic Account
  • Posts

    42
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

randomusername last won the day on December 30 2022

randomusername had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

randomusername's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • Reacting Well
  • Conversation Starter
  • Collaborator
  • Dedicated
  • First Post

Recent Badges

20

Reputation

1

Community Answers

  1. Not sure if it's the same on the 410, but on the 400 there appears to be a throttle/fuel cut under braking which makes heel/toe very hard.. It may just be my poor technique though
  2. I vaguely followed the guide here when I had to repair mine: https://www.lotustalk.com/threads/evora-glovebox-repair.365497/ I managed to get all of the push pins out without breaking/cutting anything, but mine's a 400 so maybe the design had been revised slightly. When I got the plunger apart, there was a metal retainer at the end of the string that had pulled off, I tied it off again - the string ended up a few mm shorter but the glovebox still opens far enough. From memory it took me about an hour all in taking my time, it wasn't a complex / hard process..
  3. I've got the same HU in mine - ILX-705D. As mine was also an Alpine to Alpine swap, the main wiring swapped straight over. The reversing camera needed an additional lead, as per: https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/SingleView/kwe-cam1d
  4. Thanks for this - I've got a similar issue with mine if I park it in a certain spot on my drive, which is slightly angled down towards the drivers side. The water seems to come in about 3-4" back from the bottom curve of the hinge end of the passenger door seal - it looks like it's pooling in the seal and then coming over it onto the carpet. Is this where it was coming in in yours? I've tried putting some neoprene seal along the door similar to how you have done, we will see if it helps any otherwise I'll be pulling the door cards off as well...
  5. OK - some more updates on this... I've been working through it slowly evenings and weekends since and it's pretty much back together now... Stripping everything down isn't too hard, it's just time consuming. The Lotus service notes say that the rad has to come out as a pack - main rad, chargecooler rad and AC condensor, but it is possible, if awkward to split them apart in the car and just get the main rad out. Putting it back together without splitting the rad pack is much, much more awkward. If there's a next time, I'd probably take all three out. But it is possible. Some of the rad hoses / chargecooler hoses were a little crusty and starting to weep, so these got resealed and some extra clips on them to hopefully prevent any future issues. I would probably recommend inspecting the hoses behind the arch liners if possible as part of general maintenance - for the sake of an hour or so it's better than having a major leak. Putting the bumper / clam back on is more fiddly and time consuming than difficult, it just takes a while to get everything to line up nicely, make sure the panel gaps look OK. Likewise with the headlights - the mountings and adjustments are a nasty nasty design and it's fiddly to get them aligned in three dimensions and sat in the recess nicely.
  6. Small update - I got the front clam off last weekend and have managed to get the rad out without having to pull the AC condenser, chargecooler rad out as well... As suggested above, there's a sticker on it saying it's made for Lotus by PMA group. There's a similar sticker on the aux rad in the wheel well. The rad appears to have failed internally - I can't see impact damage but there's red coolant stains from between some of the cross tubes. As the main rad is bolted to the car, and the chargecooler rad, AC condenser and PAS cooler are all hung from it, I wonder if the strain has caused a fracture internally somewhere... The old rad appears to be different to the pic above - it's fully metal including end-tanks etc. I could do with the car back on the road so swallowed the cost of a replacement from B&C - it arrived yesterday and is similar to the one above with plastic tanks. The side vent brackets were a bit rusty, but other than that it all came apart reasonably easily. They've been Bilt-Hambered and repainted. The mudguard brackets were also rusted away to nothing so the Eliseparts stainless ones will be refitted instead... Hopefully it goes back together as easily as it comes apart!
  7. Much better than EP90 gear oil Initial sweet notes with a long lasting bitrex aftertaste
  8. Once I strip it down and figure out it is the rad that's leaking I'll be straight on the phone to them - but I was doing some research beforehand and wondered if anyone knew what the rad was from
  9. More for anyone's future help / reference than anything else: Pre 400 Rad - C132K0011F RADIATOR OPEL FRONTERA A 2.0 2.2 2.4 PETROL 1991-1998 1300119 1300120 1300136" Post 400 Rad - A132K0190H Currently Unknown... Disclaimer - I've not checked that the Frontera rad is identical, I just read somewhere that Lotus used a Frontera Rad in a thread somewhere and it looks very similar! I've had a search online for rads for all of the cars I can think of but can't find anything that looks the same as the 400 rad...
  10. Thanks - it looks like the early and later model rads are different - they don't seem to list a replacement for the 4x0 series
  11. Hi All I've been losing coolant for the past few drives and I think it's vanishing somewhere round the front of the car - there's a faint smell of coolant from the front rad vents, and one or two drips on the undertray that taste a bit coolant-ey... I've got a couple of questions before I investigate any further... 1 - can you get the the bottom of the rad by removing the undertray, or is there more ducting etc in the way? I was hoping that you could get access to enough to figure if it's the rad itself, leaky hose etc. I know to replace the rad you need to take the clam off... 2 - Is the 400 rad bespoke to Lotus, or did they re-use something from another car? I read somewhere that the earlier pre-400's possibly used a Vauxhall Frontera rad, but the 400 setup appears to have a different pipe layout... 3 - Are there any companies that make an uprated / all ally rad - it looks like the Komo-tec one is for the earlier models, but I can't find a 400 onwards one... Thanks! Jon
  12. Well - sitting and waiting appeared to pay off.... I thought earlier that I'd not heard anything back from them - so put my reg into the checker, and now it's showing as being ULEZ compliant. If I log into my account I can't see any responses to my queries, but it looks like they have updated the database using the VCA link I posted way up top as proof of compliance Hopefully this will be helpful to anyone else if they run into this in the future
  13. Thanks for the comprehensive reply... I'm sure I'll have a crack at changing them at some point, but probably when the weather is a bit better and when I know I've got a lot more time to take over it!
  14. It looks like it's a sit and wait web form for queries over the incorrect database, with some phone numbers for contesting charges.. I was looking to see if the CoC was readily available as that's what they ask for to correct the database - a scan of your V5C and a copy of the CoC. I provided them with the V5C and a copy of the gov certification site above for the 400 with a hope that this would be enough... If the CoC was 'free' then I would have re-submitted with a copy of that as well. If it's £180 then I shall wait a bit then probably call them up and start pestering...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to enhance your browsing experience, serve personalized ads or content, and analyze our traffic. By clicking " I Accept ", you consent to our use of cookies. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.