fastdave92649

Could be the turbo seals going bad causing oil to seep into your intake track. Might be time for a rebuild of that turbo. Nothing behind that hose to drip unless your block is cracked. Take the right pipe off and look inside for excesive oil in it.

Should be 2" if I remember correctly.

Sorry Bibs, I tend to read the forum frequently but never saw it, should have searched. As I have emailed and not received a response I will move on, I can easily live without the parts. Thanks for all the responses.

Anyone know if these guys are still around?? They have several items I want to purchase but all of their store items for the Esprit section have no "Add to Cart" links. The Elan section looks like it's still up and running???

I did not split my feeds, they operate the same as the factory setup (just swaped them). The mixing chamber is really just a spacer (IAT also attaches to it) with a slit in it between the throttle body butterflies and the plenum. You could weld up that slit and isolate the feeds one for each bank but having that mix/balance is a good thing because it masks any variances in the turbos and keeps both banks running at the same boost level as was mentioned already.

I really like this setup. When I'm ready to upgrade the transmission I will be using a PWR liquid to oil cooler to create a trans cooler. They are small enough to run one along the cross member and I will T off the intercooler feed line and add a second return to the tank. Has anyone seen or know of a source for a -10AN single input to 3 -10AN outputs or -10AN distribution block of some kind?? I also verified and installed a new trunk liner by these guys: http://www.lotuspbc.com/Photo_Gallery/Photos_New_Products.htm The new trunk liner fit perfect without an modification, you can see it in the first complete package picture but they sold me just the liner without the rest. I have to pull my system one last time soon to get my methanol nozzle bungs welded in and the last of the pipes and the cores ceramic coated (might use a different heat dissipation paint on the cores). When I do this I will make sure to take and post a bunch of pics of the completed system.

I built a complete charge cool system with the PWR barels and swapped the feeds. No issues at all in swaping them. I used all v-bands and hard lines except for the BOV connectors and TB conectors to provide some flex points. In order to get the best fit I also shortened then cooler cores themselves. I will post up pics of my setup later today for you. Here is a short video of them: http://db.tt/vtpNKA0j

I made my own SS lines for about 300-400US!! 12mm to -4AN adapter for the oil feed lines. -4AN feed lines 13" long with straight on one end and 90 degree on the other -6AN coolant feed line with straight on one end and 90 degree on the other, I put in block adapters for the coolant feed lines that were straight block thread to -6AN (can't remember the block thread and size off the top of my head. -6AN coolant return lines with proper turbo to -6AN adapters. I can dig up the block adapter info but on the turbo side I was mating to a GT28 BB CHAR to my turbo connections

It's ALIVE!!!! Engine fired up for the first time last night. Running pretty rough as I first fired it up without the IAT and intercooler setup on. This put me in limp home mode with P0111 and P0113, cleaned the IAT connections and temporarily installed the intercooler cores and BOV's to close the intake loop. Hope to get the idle set, coolant system bled, etc... One area that I am not happy with is the fuse I'm using to trigger my relay's for the turbo oil return scavange pump and the intercooler pump. I currently have it tapped off a fuse that has 12v when the key is in ACC position. This means when the engine is not running my scavange pump still is. I would like to find a fuse that is only on when the eninge is actually running?? Anyone know of a fuse that is only on when running? I may have to run the relay trigger wire up to the front fuse block....

Has anyone found a cross reference for the starter??

Mike, Did you happen to resurface your flywheel?? If so I read in the manual you should also mill down the legs of the clutch housing the same amount as your flywheel to ensure the same clamping forces are kept. I did not as I read this after my cover was already back on , BUT hopefully I will have the trans back off in a couple of months for the 6 speed upgrade and possible new clutch cover/clamping options.

Just updated my pictures in the link on page 3. Added some shots of the intake setup I used, the intercooler to turbo sections with there V-bands, and the preliminary exhaust. I need to re-work my exhaust sections from the turbos over the axles, I'm not happy with them. I was originally tring to put the cats as close to the turbo's as possible. This puts the V-band flanges right in front of the cross member and I feel once the engine starts moving on the mounts I will have nasty cat rubbing on my frame. I will be mocking up the back box and then using my 120 degree pipes to swing the cats outboard more and backwards so I can extend the axle pipes backwards more so the v-band is behind the crossmember. All makes sense in my head.. LOL The hardest part about using the V-Bands on the exhaust is there is no room for error on the angles and connection points.

There are a couple of options I can see for this clutch cover issue. We can search for a fit from Tilton, Exedy or the other major manufacturers that produce multi-plate clutches for a fit, we would need all the spec's of the current setup. I think it's a 7.25 inch disc, not sure on the depth, bolt pattern/spacing, throw-out bearing specs, total depth of the cover etc... The second option I was looking into is having one of my local specialty shops rebuild the stock cover with stiffer pressure plate spring fingers. Luckily I have 2-3 top clutch rebuild outfits in my local area. I have talked to the guys at ClutchNet Manufacturing and one other outfit already, just need to bring in my stock setup for them to have a look at. Also took my AP setup to the North American Distributor of AP Racing and they told me although it was AP racing product the only option would be new through Lotus. When I'm ready to do the GTO 6 Speed I will be starting with the second option and taking it to see if a rebuild with a stiffer pressure plate setup is viable. I'm still going with the 1in spline and discs regardless of the cover status. Would love to find a nice triple disc carbon setup that fits but may be harder and much more expensive than just uplifting the existing cover.

Thanks Mike... For the clutch I will be using the standard carrier but going with the ford 1" spline and disc's. Injectors are Bosch 0280155715 and flow 25lbs/hr at 43psi (3 bar). Should have enough flow and headroom for the break-in period at low boost but I will have to watch my AFR's once I get it on the Dyno and start raising the boost up. Right now I have my Forge gates set at 7 PSI which with the larger turbos should get me right around the 12 PSI of the old stock turbos. After break-in and the transmission gets done I will be cranking up the boost to about 12-15 PSI. Futures would be an Aquamist HFS-3 kit with a 50/50 blend of water and methanol, then maybe crank the boost up a little more!

Hi all, I figured i would update this thread as it has almost been a full year the car has not been running. The Current plan of action: Disassemble Engine. DonePull the pistons and drop in forged ones. Done: Had the machine shop hone and deck the block and install the JAE forged pistons in stock size.Pull apart the heads and replace any valve train components that may have been damaged/bent. Done: 6 Intake and 3 exhaust bent (might have this backwards), replaced them along with all the other bits, and had the heads ported with most of the work being done on the exhaust side and a 5 angle job.Maybe have the heads ported and 5 angle valve job done. DoneWill have the manifolds coated for heat control. Done: Had the exhaust manifold double coated with ceramic and the turbo housings (both sides) ceramic coated. Not sure what to do with the turbos while the engine is out, maybe coat them, port them or replace them with GT2860R's. Done: Pulled the stock turbos out and replaced with a pair of GT2871R's. To facilitate this had to create custom compressor housings, and I had to install a sump pump to push the oil return back to the pan. Also had to notch out the bell housing similar to Mike's first build.Drop a GTO 6 speed dog box gear set into the transmission and call that done. NOT Done: Decided to wait on this due to finances, will be installing and breaking the engine in with the stock box. Not my ideal scenario but the wifey took away my blank check. Stuff done but not on the list: ARP head studs installed, R&B water pump pulley, complete audio system updates, Sport350 engine mounts, custom intakes (similar to Mikes current project) I used K&N Apollo filter housings and used the flex pipe included to run the cold air from the scoops to the intakes. Here are some pictures: Engine Build Pictures I'm priming the oil system and working on the last few bends in my 3" exhaust setup, so it won't be long before it's fired up!! I will be working on Rev2 of my intercooler system as I replaced the sections mating turbos to cooler pipes with V-Bands, I will be keeping the BOV silicon and the TB silicon, the rest will be V-Bands. I'll also be switching my coolers from push on fittings to 10AN braided line and fittings.