C43

I did type out a long explanation then realized probably not best to give away so much IP. Suffice to say devil is in the detail when it comes to engineering, probably why we are such a pedantic lot! I think it would tempt a lot over existing Evora owners out of their series 1 cars. C43

there will be a fair amount of type approval I would guess. I would image for such a structural change it will be start again on the crash testing. regards Christian

does the fog light itself come on?

I have a 2bular switchable system on my NA. It is pretty mental. No drone and sounds lovely when you let the revs climb. Through a tunnel it sounds pretty epic.. oh and then you switch it to loud mode...sounds amazing! In tunnels and anywhere where there is a wall to bounce the sound off it is almost too much...almost! I am same as you. Have an NA, would love a 400 but trying to justify it. Well I don't think you can on exhaust note alone.. C43

thanks. As far as setting door height you can see it going onto the catch as you close the door from the outside enabling door height to be set accurately at this stage. Also the pins are very tight in the new bushes once the bushes are in the beam. To save a lot of hammering a heat gun on the aluminium door beam once the bushes are fitted opens up the diameter enough to make the pins a little easier to fit, but they are tight...however this should prevent any slop in the door once it is assembled. C43

amazingly it was pretty good first time with no messing. We then tried adjusting it to get it better and it turned into a bit of an epic. Couple of points. First is much easier with two of you, one to hold the door, the other to tighten and loosen bolts. Secondly, once it is close you can adjust it on either top of bottom hinge bolt only and they do subtly different things. If you loosen the top bolt you can lift the door at the catch end but it gets closer to the body at the hinge end. If you want to lift the door at the catch end but want the door further away from the body at the hinge end then loosen the bottom hinge bolt only, lift door and tighten. Like this it was pretty easy. We also taped up around the door to prevent scratching anything which was worth it. Oh and I strongly recommend fitting the door beam and nipping in place before you fit the door. cheers Christian

thanks for the feedback guys. I will let you know Monday how it goes....if I still have fingers left to type with

thanks Jon. SJ are out of stock for a month so have gone down the emery cloth and super glue route. Glued them on last night easy enough. Still debating fitting the door beam and then sliding the door and adjusting to get the height right or fitting as an assembly the door and beam. My brother is coming to help this weekend so should be easier with two. cheers Christian

oh and by the sound of it attached the door to the beam before fitting the beam? When I stripped the doors off I took everything off the beam first then removed the beam last. cheers Christian

Thanks mate, that is perfect advise. I am going to fit some emerypaper but was thinking of superglueing the plane side to the body and using the rough side to metal hinges to prevent any possible sliding between the two. And as you say the doors are heavy even when stripped. Did you replace the bushes? I have fitted new bushes and pins but they we so tight I opened them up a little with a reamer. Still hammer fit but at least now possible. cheers Christian

Hi anyone got a good method for aligning the door once you have replaced all the bushes. I am putting it all back together but was thinking best to close the door on the catch before tightening up the door hinge mounting bolts inside the car? cheers C43

does sound like the imperial to metric issue. I am doing my doors at the moment and my door pin is metric (15.97mm). The SJ web site describes it all. C43

Don't need to remove the glass. The finishing pieces of trim do need to come off around the sides of the roof but all are easy (too easy!) to get off. Seats out makes it all easier but they are only 4 bolts each so not a big job. I did not do the stitching. The roof lining was so bad I just wanted if gone! As a note once I changed it the stale smell from inside the car went as well which was a positive for sure. C43

you could just try WD40 / Plus Gas for a week or so and see if this frees it up. Either way if the door is dropping on the hinges you are going to be into a bit of an epic. I stripped the whole door down as I wanted to take the chance to get a load of trim re painted and the electric mirrors working again. You can take the door off by undoing the bolts from the inside the brackets but it will be heavy and the risk of damage is there. C43

I had exactly the same issue on both doors. I am in the process of stripping them down and replacing the bushes. My pins had rusted into the bushes hence it was turning where you indicate. Also my lower bracket was loose. Oh and bushes had rusted into the door beam so lots of plus gas / heat gun and a drift to get them out. Taking them to pieces not too bad. I stripped everything out of the door then slid it off the beam to allow me to get to the pivot bolts / bushes. Not sure how putting them back together is, I will let you know... BTW does anyone have a good method for setting the high of the door? I was thinking of closing the door then tightening the pivot bracket mounting bolts from the inside?? cheers C43

I am friends with a local trim company and they gave me some good advice. I scraped the roof of all old glue and old head lining, was not as bad as thought. Then stuck 6mm foam on the roof first to give a smooth finish. This was done by applying contact adhesive to roof and foam, leaving to go tacky then applying the foam. Next was to apply the head lining. I did not apply any contact adhesive to the head lining, only the foam already on there. However I applied the head lining whilst the contact adhesive was still wet. We then used a paint roller to smooth it all out which helped a lot. Initially it hands down a bit but as the contact adhesive goes off the bond is better and better. Sounds tricky and easier to do with a helper. I have some 6mm foam spare if you are interested. BTW we will be at Brooklands if you want to see the finished job. Get contact adhesive that is heat resistant seems to be the big issue as the roof does get hot on a sunny day. I also re trimmed all the little panels, these are pretty easy to do and for those I applied contact adhesive to both surfaces. cheers C43 BTW we are also in a JPS S2!!

I used a paint scraper, actually came off really easily. Makes a big mess so seats out and cover interior would be my advice. C43

I made cardboard cut outs of the dash pieces so I could play with the fitting order before using the real parts, yes I got that desperate! C43

yes standard size. they are at my brothers so if you want I will send you his e mail address and you can talk to him directly. We have connectors, one sharp tape player and one sharp radio and tape player but the take does not work (no sound). They are black and look perfect IMO. Christian

We have just gone through the same process and have fitted a sharp which the car had at the time. I can get the model number if you want. BTW we ended up having to buy three as on the first one the radio worked but not the tape player and then the older radios have special connectors that we could not get hold of. We now have a spare set of connectors and one which is tape only and a second that is radio only if you are interested. C43

I did my brothers Esprit S2 a few months back. Taking the dash out was not too bad, putting it back together was pretty epic. Take lots of photos of everything as you take it out and when putting it back together the three dash panels will only go in on one order. From memory fit the middle main part loose, then the lhs parts can be screwed in place, then move the middle part left as far as it will go (without all the wires coming out) then fit the rhs and bolt into place then re align the centre section and screw in place. I also used selastic to hold all the warning lights in place before fitting the centre plastic section. Not sure if this was a good idea of not as it limited access but it did keep then in the right order. Oh and the pervious owner had fitted two warning lights in the wrong slot so I had to fit them twice, my suggestion would be to double check all the warning light positions. I have some photos but probably easier to ask if you have any specific questions. good luck C43

Hi Scott I am still trying to pin down exactly where the leaks are in the oil system. Gave everything a really good clean under the car at the weekend so hopefully it should be easier to work out now... cheers Christian

I work with a guy who was an engine builder at Lotus during the 901 and 910 period. His thinking was to use silicon although wet not dry and he thinks if you let it dry too much it splits when you torque down the cover. I am trying to convince him to come and do the cover on my brothers S2 which is leaking a lot of oil, for some reason he does not seem too keen..... seems whatever you do its going to take a few attempts. If you are really struggling Honda do some sealant that's meant to be the dogs but not tired it myself. C43

thanks

Hi Andy going to try the same job on my brothers S2 as its leaking. I was thinking easier to do it when the car is on rear ramps rather than jacked up. Any thoughts? ta Christian