C43

part 50 was what I changed. The catch on my old one was completely worn out of shape.

Hi I had much the same problem on my 84 turbo. I got it adjusted to the stage where it would not pop open over a bump but I did have to slam it quite hard to shut it. Anyway I finally bit the bullet and bought a new rod with the catches (the bar that runs across the inside of the boot) and it is much better now. The catches on my old rod were worn to the stage where they did not latch properly any more, the new one is quite a different profile and holds onto the boot much better. cheers C43

Hi does anyone have any experience on changing rear toe shims and how much effect it has on the rear toe. From the geometry it looks like 1mm of toe shim is equivalent to just under 0.7mm of toe change. Just checking if anyone has found this in practice? thanks C43

Ditto, mine are fully refurbished with braided hoses front and rear and new fluid and everything rebuilt, and I agree they are not great. Its an old car so not surprising but given the acceleration I do have to remind myself that the brakes will not be as good as say the Evora I used to have.

FYI on my turbo when I compression test it cold I got 10 / 10 / 9.8 / 10. All in bar. This is a rebuilt engine. I guess its the spread rather than the absolute numbers you are looking at.

Might be worth giving it another bleed. I also have an 84 turbo and after a complete rebuild I had to bleed it a couple of times to get the pedal back. I also find heel and toe difficult due to pedal positioning (even with a stiff brake pedal) but have mastered it after some driving.

Hi, I have one spare thats bent to shape, PM me if your interested.

yes I did and made them up, looks good. I may have a spare, will let you know.

Lotusbits?

haha,. I found a place in wales which does exactly the right size and pattern but only in stainless steel not aluminium. The stainless will last better but obviously heavier which is upsetting me a bit! https://www.themeshcompany.com/products/-6-Mesh---3.33mm-Aperture---0.9mm-Wire-Diameter---SS304-Grade----Woven-Wire-Mesh--56.html#SID=59

Hi I am just refurbishing the engine cover on my 84 turbo and would like to replace the wire mesh on the center. Has anyone found a good place to buy the original spec? thanks C43

I put my sub on the lhs under the panel that goes around the window on the lhs on the engine. That way its close to the battery so power is easy to get to it. Otherwise I would go through the speaker hole in the rear bulkhead, again on the lhs. This is how I ran my pre outs to the sub and the speaker cables back. I have now done away with pre outs and have connected a bluetooth direct to the amp and drive it of my phone.

know what you mean by glamorous assistant! BTW if your rotate around the top mount you tend to open up the gap at the front of the door, if you rotate around the bottom mount you tend to close up the gap at the front of the door. Looking at the geometry I did not think it would make much difference but in practice I found this a useful way of adjusting both the height of the door and both the for / aft movement of the door. Useful if you are being anal about getting your shut lines good (better!). Which your rotate around depends on how much you undo the bolts holding the top and bottom hinge points. The one you are rotating around you undo less. So if I wanted to open up the gap on the leading edge then I would undo the top bolt by 1/2 turn and the bottom bolt by 1 turn (having first taken the weight with my jack) then jack the door up a little and retighten. BTW the absolute number of turns to undo the bolts by are by memory from my car, yours might be different. Let me know if this is not clear. cheers C43

I held the door up with a car jack at the end and measured the distance to the ground, I found it easier to accurately adjust the height when open that way. I took the weight off the door hinges with the jack then undid the hinge bolts inside the body a bit then lifted the end of the door with the jack then did the door back up. If you open the door and lift the end up and down and feel inside the hinge mechanism you should be able to feel if there is any play and hence if the bushes have worn. Even if your hinge bush has worn rather than the nut plate sliding I guess you can still lift the door a bit with the hinge mounting bolts rather than changing the bush itself. good luck C43

is there up and down play in the door hinges. If so then the normal cause if the plastic door bushes have worn out. Bit of an epic to change. I have done it a few times now and I would still recon on a full day to do one.

I must admit the diagram in the parts book is not great. I had to put mine back together as just about everything was disconnected and it was a complete PITA! Any questions PM me and I will try and help. Mine is an 84 turbo with aircon.

any news on group buy? thanks

Hi I would be interested in one set as well. thanks Christian

I don't think you would find anything that would withstand the heat. I guess now we would apply a coating to the shaft. Ask a turbo supplier perhaps? BTW shouldn't you have heat proof wrap on your chassis legs? cheers C43

I did same, hammerite brushed on. looks good.

my hubs came away from the discs quite easily but I did soak in WD40 for a while. BTW on my Wilwood I ended up with different spacer setup left and right. Something is obviously wrong but I never found out what despite measuring and re measuring a lot! Also remember you need to set wheel bearing endfloat with callipers removed. Oh and on the bleed nipples I see to remember you just undo the top part of the nipple, not the bottom, or something like that. I got it wrong the first couple of times and was wondering why they would not bleed properly. either way you will probably need to go around twice then drive the car then bleed again. cheers C43 my hubs came away from the discs quite easily but I did soak in WD40 for a while. BTW on my Wilwood I ended up with different spacer setup left and right. Something is obviously wrong but I never found out what despite measuring and re measuring a lot! Also remember you need to set wheel bearing endfloat with callipers removed. Oh and on the bleed nipples I see to remember you just undo the top part of the nipple, not the bottom, or something like that. I got it wrong the first couple of times and was wondering why they would not bleed properly. either way you will probably need to go around twice then drive the car then bleed again. cheers C43 ps great looking car!

looks nice. Mine was the same. My chassis has been "tweaked" to give a bit more clearance. BTW my anti roll bar. did hit my steering arm on full droop but I think it was because I had it fitted upside down. Now the ARB is the correct way around its fine. With the Willwood callipers make sure the brake line can't rub on the upright. cheers Christian

My carpet was glued over the fuel hose. I fitted new hose from SJ and it was a right PITA to hold the hose in place whilst I glued new carpet in place. And that was with the engine out so could sit in there nice and comfortable.

haha yes when I took my old springs out and fitted new the body was off the chassis so mine was also pretty light! I ended up sitting my wife and oldest child on the front of the car to weight it down. A little bit sketchy but I know cars well so I was quite confident in what I was doing. If you need any more info just shout.

yes the damper is your droop stop. However I don't know if your spring compressor will unwind enough to allow it to be removed. you need all load out of the spring before the spring compressor gets to the end of the thread. On my S3 I sat people on the car and used the weight of the car and supported the car via the front lower wishbone to compress the spring if that makes sense. take your time!