fjmuurling

recieved my manifold today looking very good.

As the turnbuckle has rose joints the expansion / contraction etc of the manifold doesn't cause any unnecessary (difficult word) stresses etc.

The standard bearing on the turbo is a plain bearing, it should turn freely but it won't hold spin like a ball bearing. Under working conditions hydrodynamic forces force the oil (if engine is running and supplying oil) between the bearing surfaces keeping them apart preventing abrasion of the bearing surfaces. The oil also cools the bearing surfaces and reduces friction. A similar proces takes place in the big end bearings and the mainbearings.

An adjustable turnbuckle which connects to a stud on the Turbo Flange and to a Bellhousing bolt supports the weight of the Turbo. See the picture in post #5 of the following topic: http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/54603-alunox-321-stainless-steel-replacement-manifold/ AFAIK there is/was a better picture (in situ) of the Turbo weight holding system but I can't find it.

Below is a link to a topic about "electronic" cambelt tensioning. http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/4193-cambelt-tension/

I use Tune!it on a laptop with an external microphone, works great. Freek

Thx for the information Mark, do you have some pictures of the manifold fabrication ??

Worked for me as well, first time not really but the second attempt I upped the concentration and a couple of hours later clean couplings without aluminium bits. Freek

Hi Benjamin, before drawing any conclusions I would redo the the compression test. A compression test should be done with a warm engine and the throttle fully open. Further more the wet test should be done with a couple of drops of oil and not a cup. As for the cylinder numbering no. 1 is the most forward one and no. 4 is the most aft one, in general cylinder numbering is done towards the power output (flywheel) side, no.1 being the one furtherst from the flywheel. Hope this helps, Freek

Hi Mark, I would like to have one as well hope I'm not to late. PM send. Freek

Hi Peter The grub screw holds the bracket onto the part mounted on the door. The top of the bracket has a couple of notches in which a strong leaf spring ratches. In order to get the whole thing from the car you have to remove the mirrorglass and disconnect the wires to the heating element and the plug for the motor. Tower shape bracket, the bottom has the hole for the grub screw, the top has the teeth. Spring modification, originally the spring is riveted to the aluminum body. (mine broke) To prevent the mirror from creeping down (normally the black bracket is held in place by double sided adhesive only) I glued it into place with some 2 component glue. Before glueing (red arrows) i removed the adhesive tape (watch out for the traces on the heating element). The blue arrows are the 4 locking holes which connect to the motor meachanism. The yellow arrow is the notch which operates the locking ring for removal / fitting of the mirror onto the motor. Cleaning and some grease onto the ratchet mechanism works like a dream (I had the same problem). Happy new year, Freek

It's been a long time but progress is made. I had the head machined as there was a little bow in it. The valves back into their right spots This plug is easily forgotten. Goodies, as it turned out later not all of them were good see the other topic which HG. Fitting of the Front Crankseal with a home made tool. More to come, Freek

As it looks like the black HG with the copper o-ring for the oil feed is not an original one, I decided to order a new one at my local Lotus Parts Supplier which I fitted a couple of days ago. The new one is for sure a goetze one and came fully sealed. Just before fitting I took some pictures. I also measured the thickness which is around 1.91 mm. The black one with the copper ring was around 1.7 mm (both measured berofe use).

Something like this ?? Some StSt flat, a couple of cobalt drills a saw and a file and two evenings of work. where applicable i had the nuts / bolts welded to the flat bar. Freek

Looking very good.

Just got off the phone with SWLC (my HG and other parts supplier, very friendly people) and they confirmed that the HG I have is an original Lotus HG. Lotus supplies parts nowadays in bulk / without original packaging etc.

Hi Travis, Cilinderliner nip already checked, all values are 0.00 mm except one (cylinder #3 right side) which is -0.01 mm (liner below block) so all is well within the Lotus specification. No coolant in the Oil so should be no problem. I will keep the O2 in mind but I as far as I know there was no coolant in the exhaust. My HG failure was not as catastrofic as yours.

Maybe it's an idea to use photoshop (or similar program) to get an idea.

thx for the answers, the one I bought (with a lot of other stuff from SWLC) looks like the one shown in the second picture in post #4. If I read everything right than the HG I have is a Goetz one which is the preferred one to use. Freek

As i'm in the process of replacing the HG on my SE, I like to know which one should I use. I read the various articles on the forum and found out that there are severel types/makes i.e. Goetz / Cooper etc. There are HeadGaskets with an copper ring for the sealing of the oil channnel and with an green Viton ring instead of the copper ring. The old gasket in my car had the green viton ring and and was reinforced with a wire mesh. The new one I have has the copper ring for the sealing of the oil channel and a small bead / ridge along the outer perimeter of the gasket also it feels like it is rubberized. What are the differences between the various gaskets, and how can I tell which one is which (cooper/goetz etc). More important which one should I use (and why) ?? Freek

Float arm for an SE (I think they all use the same type), I think i saw some pictures / topic somewhere here on the forum but can't find them.

Same over here difficult to get over here as well.

Thx for the info Travis, let's see if I can buy in one of the local shops.

I like to know if somebody knows an alternative (loctite ??) for Wellseal. Many thx, Freek

A broken CEL can cause the error 26 so if there are 2 (SE has 2) a broken one in the boot can cause the problem while the one in the dash is working.