fjmuurling

Hello, I changed my front wheel bearings recently on my 1990 SE and posted the SKF numbers in the Stevens X reference topic. Front Wheel Bearings: A089C8005F (Outer bearing) SKF bearing LM 11949/910/Q (Cup is LM11910/Q and Cone is LM11949/Q) A089C8004F (Inner bearing) SKF bearing LM 67048/010/Q (Cup is LM67010/Q and Cone is LM67048/Q) The seal has an outer diameter of 62mm, the inner diameter is 48 mm and the thickness is 7 mm. I used one with an additional dustlip. I fitted the bearings in my 1990 SE and the price was around 80 Euro for a whole set (2 Front wheels) including the 2 seals. Freek

Glyn, I believe it is a pushfit but a very tight one. Some (long) time ago you could get alloy handbrake covers and before fitting that one the old one needed to be cut off and the new one could be slid on again. Try heating (hot air gun) it in order to slide the part off. Good luck. Freek

Hello Ian, the relay contact shown is in it's no power state and yes the mute cont. line needs power (+ve) to have the amp. operate. Reading from your diagram the relay contact is in series with the power line. Is the mute cont. line connected to your Head Unit ? It looks like you got a bad signal coming on the mute cont. line. Try searching in that direction ie check the voltage on the mute cont. line. Hope this helps Freek

Hello, this is what I put in the x-reference list after replacing the front bearings in my 1990 SE (I used SKF bearings): Front Wheel Bearings: A089C8005F (Outer bearing) SKF bearing LM 11949/910/Q (Cup is LM11910/Q and Cone is LM11949/Q) A089C8004F (Inner bearing) SKF bearing LM 67048/010/Q (Cup is LM67010/Q and Cone is LM67048/Q) The seal has an outer diameter of 62mm, the inner diameter is 48 mm and the thickness is 7 mm. I used one with an additional dustlip. I fitted the bearings in my 1990 SE and the price was around 80 Euro for a whole set (2 Front wheels) including the 2 seals. Freek

Hai Gordon, If it is the float type you can test the senor with a multimeter set on resistance measurement when unplugged. The senor is just a switch. Switch closed = almost zero (a few) ohms and switch open is indefinite resistance. Freek

Fixed the problem today. The light came out with some patience and pressure, it was stuck to the leather (not glued) probally because it sat there for ages. As suspected one connection was missing on the light. After some digging around I found the wire and put the spade and put the spade connector on the light and everything is working great now. Freek

Hello, Perhaps the picture can give you some insights. The way the mirror is build up is as follows: Mirrorglass - double side adhesive tape - heating element - double sided adhesive tape - black bracket. Yellow arrow - Locking Tab Blue arrows - Locking Holes Red arrows - Modification I made i.e. two component glue in order to prevent the sliding down of the mirror resulting in an inability to operate the locking tab. This happenend on my car. The locking mechanism is a plasting ring in the circular part of the black bracket which is open on the side were the tape is. On my car the double sided adhesive tape prevented the rotation of the ring. Removal took a lot of patience and wiggling. When all was off I made the red arrow modification (remove the tape first in the area's taking care of not damaging the heating element) afterwhich I put some silicone spray grease to the rotating part in order to prevent sticking to the tape. I hope this information can help you out. Freek

Gordon, The AC Condensor is loacted in the front of the car where the radiators are. This part cools the compressed refrigirant gas into liquid. The Evaporator is in the car (dashboard). In the evaporator the refrigirant expands which consumes heat and thus cooling the air. The part where you are looking for is in the dashboard and what I read about it is that access to it is difficult. Freek

There is also an article on LEW about timingbelts and tensioning them. Timing Belts 4 & 8 Cylinders. I use a Laptop, a decent computer microphone and TuneIt software. Freek

The doorswitches are fine, the lights in the doors work. The problem is that somebody who installed the old (and now removed and renewed) alarmsystem made one connection to the purple/white wire going to the interior light very close to the interior light. I think the wire came loose somewhere in the interiorlight when removing the old system. Anyway many thanks for the other ideas. Freek

Many thanks for the info Glyn I will give it a try, the bulb is fine I can switch it on and off but it doesn't work anymore when you open the doors. Freek

Hello, How can I remove the interior light without breaking it. Many thanks in advance. Freek

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Jason, The amount of fluid being being moved is dictated by the master cylinder (masterpiston area * stroke = amount of fluid being moved), the travel/stroke of the slave cylinder is dictated by the amount of fluid being moved and the area of the slave piston (stroke of slavepiston = amount of fluid / slavepiston area). This is regardless the size (diameterwise / lengthwise) of the line between the master and slave cylinder. If you cannot push the pedal to the floor than it looks like you are bottoming out (max stroke) on the master and/or the slavecylinder or the stroke of the slave cylinder is too big for the clutch mechanism or the clutch mechanism is faulty. An idea is to remove the slave from the gearbox and leave it attached to the hydraulic line and test/check the pedal/slave cylinder travel, in order to find out where the problem is. Hope this helps, Freek

SCC082910LHF65526 1990 Esprit Turbo SE, Vulcan Grey Metallic Freek Muurling, Vlissingen, The Netherlands

On my 1990 SE there are springs in the window lift mechanism which help the upward movement of the windows. Freek

George, I have a 1990 SE Turbo, if you let me know of what parts you need pictures I can probably help you out (I can make them for you of my car). Freek

Hello just checked my electrical manual and I found the following for a 1990 SE: NON SIR cars have a rheostat type which is a variable resistor directly connected to the 12 V system. SIR cars have a rheostat which is connected to a rheostat module which drives the lights. Fuse 21 is for the gauges and warning lights and not for the illumination of the gauges. Fuse 6 is for the illumination bulbs in the gauges and for the clock. Check / replace fuse 6 and see if the problem is solved otherwise the rheosat / rheostat module can be the fault. If you have a non SIR car and the rheostat is broken you can temporaly fix it by bridging the connections on the rheostat itself but the only downside is that the lights in the gauges are at max. brilliance. Hope you can sort it out, Freek

Gordon, It can be a faulty switch but my bet is on a low system pressure. According my electrical manual the switch is labelled as a low pressure switch but normally the switches are high/low pressure switches. In order to replace the switch the system has to be emptied. Have the pressure tested / charge checked at a shop which is specialised in AC systems so you know what is wrong. As far as the switch concerned the settings depend on the type of refrigant being used, so any switch which fits and is for the correct type of refrigant can be used IMHO. Freek

When the pressure is ok the switch closes so under normal operating conditions it "shorts". Freek

There is a pressure switch on the receiver/drier. When the pressure is too low it cuts out and than the electromagnetic clutch on the compressor can not engage hence no AC. This switch is a safety device in order to avoid damage to the system when the pressure inside the system is not correct. I suggest to have the system pressure tested to see if there are no leakages. If the pressure is right it can be a broken (pressure)switch. Have you checked the V-belt which drives the compressor ? Freek

If you are refering to partno: B079M6133F than I can say it is not expensive. 2 years ago I replaced mine and it cost me

Travis as far as I know there are 2 (two) vulcan grey esprits in the netherlands as I have seen one at the dealer in Lochem which was not mine. It was a 1990 SE the same one as I have. Maybe Adrian bought the one I saw. Freek

A healthy working temperature for the oil is around 80 deg. Celsius. I would double that for the hose specification so IMHO you are fine with the 150 deg. Celsius specification. Freek

Recently I fitted KUMHO's on the rear in the correct size of 245/50 16. The type is: Kumho ECSTA ASX 245/50R16 97W KU21 Freek