Jack

Coming soon to Spring Mountain Motorsport Ranch....additional track to be built....... making Spring Mountain the longest track in the world ..... 14+ miles. Paradise for a car nut!

Having FUN in the CupR........

@alias23--Imran, great job....love your attention to detail. A few questions: 1) what ride height were you set at when the 65mm photo was taken? 2) what is ride height now that you believe is too high? 2) what was the source for the LMS shock settings? If LMS refers to Lotus Motorsport, then I'm confused???

Super B FTW …...

Clear-bra (PPF) on the wing will protect against UV damage as well.

@Ken -- Thank you for sharing. I can truly appreciate all the work and effort that you put into developing the car. Hope you don't mind if I ask you a couple of questions. 1) I've recently experienced the benefit of the Bosch Motorsport ABS over the stock ABS in my Exige V6CupR, but haven't done the brake-cage/pedal-box mod…yet. Am I correct in assuming that getting rid of the brake vacuum booster gave you much more/better brake peddle feel/resolution which helped with brake modulation? So you would recommend the peddle-box mod in conjunction with the motorsport abs? 2) I noticed that you used a 7500 rpm shift point with your most recent 2ZZ engine build, any specific reason? Would you mind sharing HP/Torque of your engine? Thanks in advance and good luck with the sale. Given all the development work and quality components, your asking price seems very fair, maybe even too low.

@The Pits, thanks for sharing. Jonny, do you know what engine and sequential are in that car…sure doesn't look to be the standard 2ZZ motor, based on shift points. I noticed he was shifting at ~7500 rpms, much lower than redline for the standard 2ZZ. Also, was that originally a 2-Eleven GT4 model or a modified standard 2-Eleven to which the owner added a sequential?

@alias23, now it's time to add a gurney flap (wickerbill) to that gorgeous wing -- something between 7-10mm tall) -- more downforce, little, to no drag penalty https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gurney_flap Should let you run the wing at a reduced AoA than you currently run and still get the same downforce as with the greater AoA position?? You can use aluminum angle iron or get the wickerbill in carbon, relatively inexpensive mod. 2 photos below for illustration. Black V6 no wicker bill, orange one yes, if you look closely (carbon). 2-Eleven photo may show the flap more clearly (in black aluminum) Keep the "mods"coming, your car looks fantastic!

My CupR came with arch liners as well but no mud flaps. Elimination of the arch liners will result in "star" cracks to the clam. @The PitsMaybe the factory forgot to install them on your car -- this happened on my 2006 Cup240, but only on one side.

Pumping (or in this case 1 pump) will typically always improve the "firmness" of the pedal. Sounds like there is still some air in the system. What method did you use to (how did you) bleed the system? If per chance, you got the fluid too low in the reservoir, it is possible that air got into the ABS....bleeding thats system effectively usually requires using the Lotus proprietary software/scan tool so as to activate the abs. You can do it on the road but it's a time consuming method and generally less effective -- I would not recommend it.

Stock CupR wing with original end-plates and with larger end-plates plus "gurney" flap ..... Photo 1 taken after some rear diffusor/exhaust mods. Photo 2 taken by Russell at Hethel before loading on transport for it's plane ride to the US.

....that is, if you consider a gathering to be two of us getting together at Spring Mountain Motorsport Ranch for a fun track day. There are only a handful of these in the Colonies, so it's always a treat see a sister car. One of the best ways to spend a day ..... tracking a Lotus at the best private country club racetrack in the USA, IMHO.

Looking good Arun! Not really, I can fry some eggs back there.

Yes, but the rpm limit is tied to water temp exceeding 70*C (I believe). However oil will get up to an acceptable temp much later than water after a start-up from cold. Correct but the factory did add those sensors to the CupR. You would need to add the oil temp and pressure sensors for the road-going Exiges ..... easiest was the use of a sandwich plate adapter in my S2 Exige/2-11. This will probably work for mounting the gauges ...... http://www.elise-shop.com/hurricane-gaugepod-elise-exige-all-models-p-438.html?zenid=03d47e9743f4a4dbabd5c3365e1b7a0b I like lots info relating to engine parameters ..... makes me think/hope that I can catch an issue early on before it rises to catastrophic proportions. For me, adding a data logging dash which could also clearly display engine parameters was the solution, albeit one of the more expensive routes. Besides, I couldn't hardly make out the water temp on the stock instrument cluster under certain lighting conditions -- old eyes I expect. My "engine-check" display on my current instrument cluster ...

Chrome Orange ..... as delivered from the factory

Nathan, the splitter rods were custom made from aluminum tubular stock for the appropriate length needed. You can also find after-market sources for these rods, e.g., http://www.ebay.com/bhp/wind-splitter My front rods were attached to the top bolts securing the vertical tow-bar support to the crash structure. 2 more rods (not visible in the photo above), attach at the sides within the front wheel arch to the crash structure. I'll try to get you a photo when next with my car. I think just front rods will be enough for your application.

What DJW said above. FWIW, for the 2-11, once we went with more aero up front with a larger splitter, extra support was needed to avoid damage to the clam as well as the aluminum under-tray..... eventually some support rods were added. I'm NOT talking about damage due to a track off incident. The "damage" is cumulative until there would be a catastrophic failure. With the 2-11, early signs were excessive flexing which at first felt like a vibration emanating from the front-end under heavy braking from speeds above 125mph. Of course, the 2-11 ride height is much lower than that of the Exige Cup, so our experience may not be relevant. Better safe than sorry though. My custom splitter (albeit large) was a full piece which was very deep (photo below) and it still needed extra support, including rods secured to the crash structure (not the clam). By the way, @W31SSN ....good looking splitter.

In case anyone might be interested and assuming this does not violate Forum rules, this thread about a brave soul installing a VW 2.0 turbo motor with DSG transmission into his 2010 Exige is a good read ….. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f157/exige-vw-2-0-tsi-dsg-conversion-build-399546/

For me, I consider a dual-clutch (I've owned cars with DSG and PDK versions) to be automatics w/o the torque converter, albeit more sophisticated auto -boxes. And, they are very good. While I consider the BMW SMG and Ferrari F1 transmissions of yore (like those found in my V10 M5 and 430) to be manual boxes where the clutch is operated by electro-hydraulic actuators. By the way, those transmissions functioned terribly when used in "auto-mode", unlike the current batch of dual-clutch transmissions. In any event, a sequential is a different animal all together, whether it uses paddles or a push/pull shift lever. Clearly "auto-blip" and "flat-shift" capability with a sequential is controlled to a certain extent by a computer (TCU), but the driver's inputs dictate how well these functions perform during track usage. But, I can see your point and I understand that a twin or dual clutch also has sophisticated electro-hydraulic modules, as does, for that matter, the 10-speed automatic in my tow vehicle .... a Ford F150. However most articles I've seen discussing the operation of a dual-clutch transmission define it as an automatic ....sort of like this: "A dual-clutch transmission (DCT) (sometimes referred to as a twin-clutch transmission or double-clutch transmission) is a type of automatic transmission or automated automotive transmission. It uses two separateclutches[1] for odd and even gear sets. It can fundamentally be described as two separate manual transmissions with their respective clutches contained within one housing, and working as one unit.[2][3] Although usually operated in a fully automatic mode, many also have the ability to allow the driver to manually shift gears in semi-automatic mode,[1] albeit still using the transmission's electrohydraulics."

Yes, as usual, Dave is correct. The clutch in the Xtrac is tiny. Even more so than the clutch ordeal of standing starts/stop-and-go traffic, sequentials will not be happy doing street driving; and as result, your maintenance costs will increase significantly. With a sequential, the sweet spot for up-shifts requires a certain amount of torque in order to not use the clutch. Also, down-shifts need to occur within certain parameters to avoid unnecessary wear on the transmission internals. A sequential is not the same as a paddle-shifting twin-clutch, which is basically an automatic albeit a good one.

My guess is that 30 hours is the "dealer-book rate"for labor ….. it can be done in less time. Taking the clam off is not the lion's share of the labor charge. I'd be surprised if any shop will guarantee a 9 hour labor charge to do a clutch ….. but who knows. Once the tranny is out to do the clutch, think about the different final drive ratios (you have two with your transmission) and possible LSD ….. many of my Evora GTN friends who compete in Lotus CupUSA have done the mod and it transforms their N/A Evoras.

Just don't put any tire with more grip than a "true" R-compond tire on that baby or else.

I've owned a Radical SR3 1500 (MY 2012) and, in the hands of a good driver who is "aero-comfortable", it will turn "faster" lap times than any modified Lotus variant, be it a 311, CupR, Evora GT4, etc. -- and by a substantial margin. Is the Radical SR3 "faster' than any of the above Lotus cars in a straight line …… not even close. Btw, even though Radical recommends an engine refresh every 40 hours; if it it is maintained and operated properly, one can go much longer just doing track days. Hard-core racing, every 40 hours is a must to avoid a catastrophic failure. My Radical…..it is a fun car

Just remove the block-off plates for best aerodynamic effect if you are a "trackster".

So, the distinction is whether the track organizer/event is doing the timing vs self-timing? Otherwise, don't wear your Rolex while you are on track.