Richard S3T

Use a stud removal tool, but careful use of a blow torch, aim it at the stud, not so much the head. May I suggest you don't go near it unless you've cleaned the block and surrounding area. I am pretty sure these studs should be stainless steel. I was told that these earlier manifolds don't often fail, but the gaskets to the head do. Copper nuts is the conventional wisdom for normal engine manifold nuts, but the joint between the head and manifold on these engines puts up with a lot of movement through expansion and contaction. The relatively thick gaskets puts up with this (you used to be able to get thicker ones), but only if you don't crush the gasket and allow movement by sticking with the correct torque settings. I think the correct nut material is again, stainless steel. I was recommended to use Aero tight nuts as they will not slacken off so easily. With some manifolds you need special A/F nuts for clearance, but where possible it is best to fettle the manifold to accept standard A/F nuts so that you can stick with Aerotight type. The final recommendation would be to use the locktab set from later engines. Best of Luck - Richard

Please count me in Richard

Why not fit Lumenition Optronic as a straight system replacement? Richard

I replaced both manifolds last winter -- not pleasant work, but this is what I understand you can do. Wastegate. You could adapt a race wastegate into the existing intermediate manifold, or I was considering machining my own, drawings not yet finished. Perhaps use a solid piston with a PEEK ring which can withstand reasonable tempratures and high PV (load/speed) factors with low friction. Main exhaust Manifold. Early ones are longer lasting than the thin later ones for the later turbo set up. Lotus still supply them so no other was available in the UK. I bought mine and all fixings from SJ sportscars. Intermediate manifold. Try South West sports cars, who get them cast in SG (ductile), 420/12 iron. Longer lasting than the original. Alternative solution. Steve at SJ offered to supply me with a kit that includes later manifold type but in SG iron, Later turbo with integral wastegate, New exhaust and blanking piece to match up with existing silencer. I would have done this, but had already purchased a new intermediate manifold and my wastegate is now in acceptable condition. Richard

Took mine off to paint them, I thought it was three litttle nuts with washers etc and the studs in the trim locate in slots in the top of the door panel to allow for adjustment. I would quite like to change these trims for polished stainless or Carbon fibre. has anyone done or seen that? Richard

Hi Mark, Pull off the rheostat knobs. You will then see a total of 4 screws on centre black panel, remove these. You can then access the screws that hold the centre alloy panel with speedo etc in. You will need a rt angle philips driver to remove the screws from the underside of the binnacle that hold the small left side guage and switch panel. The wiring is tight so don't pull too hard, and check everything is still in place as you ease it back. I allways have real trouble trying to keep the rev counter connections in place, but the right hand side rheostat should be for the main instrument panel. The light switch is where you say and you should find a red/green wire off position 7 which takes power through two fuses (located in one of the 2 glovebox fuseboxes in parallel). One of these, fuse 5, then feeds the rheostats on a red wire also the front and rear side lights, right hand side, I think. So if your sidelights are working, you should get power up to you rheostat as long as the wires are still in tact. Not a nice job if you have big hands and no time! If you need a wiring diagram I will scan and email you directly. Richard

Hi Ron, Just looking at the LEW Calendar with this month's S1. Very nice, but even then it looks like the wiper linkage has quite some play in it. Whatever you buy you will get to know it intimately or you have unlimited resources. Buy tools, many tools and books. The S1 is lighter and cleaner looking and I am sure a talking point in any Car park, but I really like the look of the S2, Those wheels and still a clean shape. Good luck, take someone that has an idea of what they are looking at and let us know how you do. Richard

A picture of your bracket etc would be really usefull. I don't know about the shape of the federal engine cover, but mine has a rectangular slot set in the top edge towards the rear. I was looking at my Triumph S3 fan, which has a cort nozzle / shroud which would help ducting, this looks like quite a compact design and given the rectangular shape of the hole, I was thinking that 2 fans would fit the existing shape better. What do you think?

Just a thought, I had been looking at Motorcycle radiator fans off ebay for exactly that purpose. Richard

Teigan, It looks like your former has buckled a little over the years. They are pretty flimsy and I think they commonly have to be reformed, repaired and packed before recovering to give the correct contour. That edge should lie flat onto the dashboard. I think their is a steel tongue fixed on the the underside of that front edge of the console that locates under the dashboard opening and keeps the front of the console in position Richard

Hi Mark I Had a bit of this on my '85 Uk car. Both rheostats went within weeks of each other. If you take them apart they are the cheapest rubbish possible. I was going to go to RS components (UK electical/ electonics factors) and try and match something up with the hex shaft, but hopefully wire wound and as a result, more robust. In the mean time if you release the Main instrument panel You could link the wires together behind each rheostat, I can't remember if its 3 on one (the third being the power link to the second rheostat) and 2 on the other. Insulate them well. I took the old bodies apart and bridged internally across the terminals, but you might think this isn't needed. This at least gets you instrument lights. This will take perhaps a couple of hours if you take it easy like me. Richard

Hi Teigan, Leather and Humans are quite the opposite, as they age car interiors tighten, unlike me, and I don't fancy the knife! I am quite happy with the outcome, and if you are as old as me you will remember whole (Italian) setees like this, fellows with big hair and Gold medallions parked outside nightclubs. Face it the whole car still looks outrageous and is far from a modern style. If you want something quieter buy a later car! I consider the effect to be reasonably authentic and I certainly trust the original supplier to get it right, even the thread used is the correct colour (red). Had you picked up on the chrome door handles or the alloy seat belt guides yet? The main thing is to do it and enjoy! Richard

I went to Lotus (Mel Broome) through Bell and colvill (Andy). I (my Dad stripped) everything off, but preserved the seat foams. We took the remaining pile of bits to Hethel, where, many weeks later, they returned a very smart interior. Bits I had done: 2 off seats (fixed back) 2 off Tunnel side trims, 1 off tunnel arm rest, 2 off door trims, 1 off rear bulk head cover/board, including map pocket, 1 off front headlining (full glass sunroof model), 2 off side headlining (full glass sunroof model), 2 off Sun visors (grey), gearlever trim, Centre console. I sourced and supplied the Connelly leather (now UK hides). My opinion: Stripping everything clean saved money. I could have done a better deal in the end if I had let Lotus supply the Leather. I had the roof and seat backs done in Alcantara and the sun visors in the leather supplied, I like this effect and it gets rid of that awful nylon roof covering. I replaced the front dashboard strip, which is difficult with the screen in and Gliptone recoloured the Main dasboard and binnacle (Good result). Get a quote, Be patient, whilst the price went up it was still only

I used Pond pump filter material, cut to the right shape, ie black reasonably open nylon mesh/foam. Looks the same as the original did. Richard